Oil pan off, NEED OPINIONS ASAP!!

[1glaserfwd]

seems like when you buy a used bottom end you have no idea that its been through, since they all seem to look the same unless you really know to dig in deep and measure all the tolerances. Theres a guy named jafromobile on youtube, that demonstrates how to measure an engine and determine when it needs to be machined before putting back into use. Educate yourself, so that y ou can better communicate with the machinist. but yeah this is what im most afriad of, after putting thousands of dollars into an engine to find stuff like this.

4g63 Engine Tech

I understand what your saying, but that is why I decided to pay someone to check it out for me, as that is the ONE and only thing I am not confident in doing myself. I paid someone to do this so this exact thing would not happen but it happened anyway. Everyone keeps saying you bought a used engine tough luck but if people read the entire thread would understand I paid these guys to completely disassemble and reassemble to make sure all was good. They themselves said parts were new but piston rings were upside down. They should know how to assemble an engine as that is what they do for a damn living!! Not like I bought a used engine threw it in and am bitching that I spun a bearing and it walked, I feel I took the precatuions to make sure this wouldnt happen!!

Man... This just sucks too see. Another Trans then THIS!

Good luck with everything and The machine shop. If they reassembled the motor and called it good. I'd say they have some responsibility here... . Hope they feel that way too... .

Hope the Car is back up and going soon. Sorry, about the luck.

Thanks man I really appreciate all your help so far this year, I will be back soon hopefully the machine shop is reputable like I read and they will take care of all this on there dime! If not she might be hibernating for a bit

Got the engine tore out and down to the block, taking to machine shop tomorrow morning hoping they are cool about the whole situation.

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So sad!!

 

[leepen]

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Oh thats looks just like mine, did you ever cut open the oil filter?

 

[Abe'sGST]

Good luck man, keep us updated.

 

[JusMX141]

If you're not running an inline filter on your oil feed, a good bit of that metal-filled oil has made it's way through the turbo as well. Just some food for thought.

 

[1glaserfwd]

Well dropped off at machine shop he is claiming mis adjusted clutch! Said there is no way they did anything wrong to cause this! I mentioned not lining it up properly he said nope. Said he has to pull it apart and see before he talks to me anymore about it! I think I'm about to get screwed! Opinions wanted on the clutch causing this issue as I may end up in court!

 

[JacksonAuto]

A misaligned clutch will eat a thrust bearing, but it's not likely to cause the main to spin.

 

[1glaserfwd]

Misaligned? Or misadjusted? Lets say it was mis aligned or adjusted, could it happen that easily in 200 miles?

 

[JacksonAuto]

Either. Hard to say which would cause it to happen first as there are too many other circumstances. I don't think that either of those scenarios is the cause of your problem because it's not the thrust but the main itself looks to be toast. If it's only one bearing that failed I would tend to think that there was an issue with that journal which should have come up during the blueprinting process.

 

[1glaserfwd]

So the thrust bearing prob not even bad? Or you saying the main going bad is causing all the havoc. .30 end play is crazy!!

 

[JacksonAuto]

The thrust surface is definitely shot, but I'd reason that it's collateral damage. The main bearing spun and its metal particles/shavings combined with the heat then took out the thrust. Could be an oil starvation issue of that journal. Check the rod bearings. If they show signs of starvation also then there's your anwer. If they look ok, then that points to a clearance issue on the center journal, contamination during assembly or improper assembly methods. You have to look at the whole picture not just one small piece of the puzzle.

The thrust can fail and 9 times out of 10 the center main will look perfect but when a main goes, the thrust rarely survives. The fact that both of yours are toast tells me that the thrust was secondary damage.

 

[donniekak]

A misaligned clutch will eat a thrust bearing, but it's not likely to cause the main to spin.

I'm not sure the center main spun. In one of the pictures the upper main bearing shell looks like the tab is intact, and still in the tab mounting notch in the block.

 

[BogusSVO]

To me It dose not look like the main spun, it appears to be smooth in the baring seat in the cap, the edges of the locating tab in cap are sharp.

Also I doubt the block was align honed/bored, the cap to block mating surface finish looks to be coarse finished, unlike the surface finish left by the common Sunnen cap grinder that most machine shops use. It is also dark, also if you look at the bearing seat in the cap it is dark and oil stained. Most line hones I know of leave more of a cross hatch pattern, it still should have a matte shine to it also, at least in spots.

It looks to me like the bearing that fits in the cap is fused to the crank.

 

[1glaserfwd]

You guys that say it didn't spin, what is all the metal in the pan? Bogus what is your opinion on the failure?

 

[donniekak]

A worn bearing, shedding metal isn't necessarily spun. A spun bearing is when the bearing shell spins in the bearing bore,.

 

[1glaserfwd]

Ok so the bearing was gonna be completely spun in a matter of minutes then. I am so ####ing frustrated with the whole thing. The guy is a complete prick and is trying his hardest to get out of it!! Before I said a thing he blamed the clutch! I will keep you posted what happens. I know for a fact it was not aligned bored now. He told me they didnt do it cause he did not want my bill to be to expensive. I snapped back and told I just wanted my engine to be right and another couple hundred dollars would have been fine.

 

[BogusSVO]

You guys that say it didn't spin, what is all the metal in the pan? Bogus what is your opinion on the failure?

I really can not say, with out tearing it apart and checking some things.

I can add about a half a dozen more things that could have gone wrong, on top of what JAM has listed.

Did you get any sort of spec sheets from the build you had done? Or from the guy you bought it from in the first place?

What bearings were used? What weight oil did you run?

 

[casperfast]

If the machine shop is claiming you at fault i would make a call or send an email to the BAR bearue of automotive repair and the BBB and have them check it out. They will have your back. The LAST thing any machine shop wants is the bar walking through their shop and autiting their processes. Good luck man

 

[blackrosenova40]

Just out of curiosity becuase nobody has asked this yet, did you have any pedal play with your clutch pedal? If you did the clutch was only putting stress on the thrust bearing when you released the clutch.

 

[1glaserfwd]

Nope pedal assembly was rebuilt in the winter before engine was installed!

I did not get any specs at all. Bearings were acl trimetals. I used sae 30 for the first 20 miles, then I used 10w30 up until this disaster! I changed the oil 5 times including the break in oil!

 

[blackrosenova40]

I was referring to pedal travel play. All manual vehicles should have at least a small amount of pedal travel so there is no pressure plate load on the thrust bearing during driving. Semi trucks have 1-1/2 inch of pedal travel!

 

[1glaserfwd]

There is maybe 1/2" of play in the pedal.

 

[casperfast]

The spec for a semi as noted above with a spicer trans is 1.75in. For an eaton is 3.25. On put cars you want about an inch of ply at the top. But any at all rules out the clutch adjustment as the issue

 

[1glaserfwd]

Even if my pedal was adjusted wrong and the clutch was not adjusted correctly I still cant see it ruining an engine in 240 miles. I guess thats my biggest frustration is the guy is totally bullshitting me to get out of it!

 

[boost97gst]

I believe the machinist should cut you a deal and redo his work. He did very poor work.

I have been EXACTLY where you are except i had a LOT more money riding on it. Got my engine back, 300 miles later...knock, knock, knock. Rod #3. Guy used the old crank but it must not have been in spec. Had to pull engine, down another month, then reinstall. I feel your pain. Its a heartbreaker.

 

[ThunderChild]

as stated before, calling the BAR and BBB will go a long ways for you. at the same time, you need to handle the situation with tact. the machine shop definitely sounds like they skipped a step or didnt pay attention.

i recently picked up a BBC i had at the machinist and had to make a couple phone calls as he claimed certain parts that were ordered were one thing, and they definitely werent. he also "lost" new parts that i had purchased through him and lost new parts i had brought him prior to machine work.

chrome-moly piston rings were not chrome-moly, lost my main bearings, and lost the ARP main studs i brought specifically for him to align bore/hone the mains

talk about frusterating