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oil pan gasket difference?

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talondsm24

10+ Year Contributor
102
0
Aug 28, 2009
Arvada, Colorado
im needing to replave my oil pan gasket so i was wondering, is it the same gasket for the 2g as the 1g as long as they are both for a 4g63? seems like there are only 2g gaskets on ebay, but theoretically they should be the same?
 
You don't need a gasket, also the 2g 7bolt oil pan is different than a 1g 6bolt oil pan..
 
the person that had the car before me used a gsket maker type thing and its leaking everywhere thats y i wanted a gasket
 
Probably poor installation. I recommend Permatex's The Right Stuff or my personal favorite HondaBond. With HondaBond do it right once because it won't wanna come off again. The gasket won't seal very well. I've even tried a combo of gasket and sealant and it still leaked.
 
If it leaks with RTV, then it will probably leak with a gasket too. I agree with the guys above. Permatex Grey RTV is all you need.

Inspect your oil pan and make sure the rails are all straight and not bent or deformed. The pan rails need to be very flat to seal well to the block. Have you verified that the pan is even tight to the block?
 
i was planning on getting a brand new gasket and using some kind of sealent but maube i will just use that grey permatex. i havnt checked to see if its tight because i dont have a tourque wrench, i was planning on buying one this weekend so ill check the tourque first and see if i even need to pull it off
 
Of all the permatex products the right stuff works the best. It comes in a cheese whiz type can. It's really easy to get a good bead of it on the surface, it seals fast, and doesn't leak.
 
Don't use rtv that just makes more problems.
What 'problems' do you speak of?
The field service manual specifies to use a gray RTV, and most of us do sucessfully use it. Not to mention that my car didn't even come with an oil pan gasket from the factory.
 
Our cars didn't come with a gasket for a reason. Use RTV. If Mitsubishi thought it didn't need a gasket then I would say no gasket is needed.
 
We know there is a gasket but the cars don't come with one from the factory.
 
The only reason why they didnt come with a gasket from the factory was to save mitsubishi money. Think about it, imagine the price difference between having to buy material and make all those gaskets, or just buying one tube of RTV that'll make 10 gaskets. They were just being cheap and using their money more efficiently.
 
What 'problems' do you speak of?
The field service manual specifies to use a gray RTV, and most of us do sucessfully use it. Not to mention that my car didn't even come with an oil pan gasket from the factory.

Hey Paul,

I've used different types of gaskets (cork and rubber) AND RTV and the god damn thing still leaks!!!

Your suggestion is to use gray RTV only? The problem I have is that the oil pan is not flat. The bolt holes are all bent upwards to the block. That means I need a new oil pan, right?

If so, where should I get one? I've looked at extremepsi and the pan is $200. Is there a place to get one cheaper?????

Thanks Paul,

Tom
 
A lot of people have used gray RTV with great success. I personally use Right Stuff for Imports and have never had it leak.

Yes, I'd suggest getting a new oil pan if your flange is bent and you can't get it straight again. Mine had a few bends in it, but I just straightened them out with the help of a hammer and a flat piece of wood. Then make sure the flange surfaces (block and pan) are clean. Scrape all of the old gasket off and clean with brake clean, making sure not to mar the surfaces. Then lay a nice bead on the pan and attach.
 
A lot of people have used gray RTV with great success. I personally use Right Stuff for Imports and have never had it leak.

Yes, I'd suggest getting a new oil pan if your flange is bent and you can't get it straight again. Mine had a few bends in it, but I just straightened them out with the help of a hammer and a flat piece of wood. Then make sure the flange surfaces (block and pan) are clean. Scrape all of the old gasket off and clean with brake clean, making sure not to mar the surfaces. Then lay a nice bead on the pan and attach.

Should I hand tighten, then let it set and then torque it?

Or should I just torque it wet?

Tom
 
Tnx for the info. Last question.... where can I get a new 7 bolt oil pan cheap? The best price i have so far is extremepsi at $200 plus $100 for shipping to Canada.

Do you know of any other better deals?

Thanks,

Tom
 
I had been avoiding that question so I could do some searching, but I don't know of any company that makes a 7 bolt oil pan. All of the ones I found were OEM ones around the $200 price range. MAP also has a 7 bolt pan, so you could see what their shipping prices are.

If not, maybe try to find a used one with a good flange.
 
Yeah, I feel your pain, Tom. I battled leaking oil pans for a few weeks last year. I went through 4 oil pans in those few weeks before I finally got a good one. One of my leaky ones was exactly how you describe yours. Every one of the holes on the rail were bent upward and deformed. No matter what I did, it just wouldn't seal. I eventually found a guy that was selling one that had been purchased new and only used for about 1000 miles, so I could be sure I was getting one without any flaws.

From my experience, the rail on the pan must be flat and free of any deformation or it will leak. I tried to fix my bent ones, but nothing worked. A good replacement is the only fix that I came up with. I'd recommend just start searching the classifieds until you come across one that is in better shape than most. I paid $70 for the good one that I found (he said he paid $200 for it new), and I feel it was well worth it due to it being in like-new condition.


My frustrations:

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