The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

oil pan gasket

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

micus

15+ Year Contributor
53
1
Dec 17, 2005
p-ville,
hey so after using synthetic in the car the past little while ive noticed the oil pan gasket is starting to dribble a little and where the oil return line hits the oil pan, sooo ive decided its time to do the oil pan gasket, i was wondering how much of an undertaking is this, with my old mustang it meant u had to take the motor out of the car , does the oil pan more less just drop out of dsms?


its a 95 tsi awd btw, thanks in advance...:talon:
 
You don't need to drop the oil pan to fix the oil return line. Drain the oil, clean up the oil return line area well then replace the oil return gasket with High Temp RTV, I have never had my oil return line leak when using RTV. After you use the RTV let it cure for about 15 hours and put oil in the car and your ready to go.
 
He said the oil pan gasket is leaking too. Oil pan gasket is pretty easy to replace since there isn't one. I recommend using one with RTV just to be safe. You should be able to get to all of the bolts. The tranfer case and driverside axle might have to come out to get the pan down though.
 
95blackGsTurbo said:
The tranfer case and driverside axle might have to come out to get the pan down though.

Close. You need to remove the transfer case, tranny dust sheild, and unbolt the driver axle from the rear of the block. Afterwards, you can drop the pan easily.
 
alright, thanks a bunch guys thats all i needed to know,, except for what does rtv stand for????
 
95blackGsTurbo said:
He said the oil pan gasket is leaking too.

------^^^^^
Sorry I overlooked that part.... I missed the "and" in between where he says "little and where"




Its called RTV and is a gasket maker you can find it at any local autopart store (autozone etc...)

It should be around 6 or 7 bucks for a 3oz. tube.
I usually get the Red tube which is High Temp that way I am good regardless of where I use it.(Its good up to about 650 degrees)
 
RTV=room temperature vulcanization. Means that it cures best at room temperature.
 
Wait a minute.
I just did my oil pan mod (drilled 2 holes for oil drain and oil temp) but I never have to take out the axle or the transfer case. I need to take the downpipe out first, the tranny dust cover (just to make work easier), and 12 bolts that hold the oil pan to the block. Thats it.

People will blame that because my car is not 4g63 and I will have different setup. But no, 4g64 have almost the same setup as 4g63. And why somebody said that there is no gasket on the oil pan ? When I took mine off, there was no gasket on it indeed. However, I bought a gasket for my oil pan from Checker and it fit perfect. Before I bolt my oil pan up, I cleaned it, put gasket glue and gasket on, put some gasket glue on the block too. Then tight al the bolts. I think this is the proper way to do it instead of just put some silicon glue on the gasket and bolt it up.
 
Your car also isn't AWD so you don't have a transfer case. Factory there is no oil pan gasket.
 
Phalanx99 said:
Wait a minute.
I just did my oil pan mod (drilled 2 holes for oil drain and oil temp) but I never have to take out the axle or the transfer case. I need to take the downpipe out first, the tranny dust cover (just to make work easier), and 12 bolts that hold the oil pan to the block. Thats it.

Maybe because the fwd doesnt have a transfer case or 2pc driver side front axle that interferes with oil pan removal.
 
On my 1g, I had to remove one of the crossmembers under the car as well. (I think that's what they're called...long structural supports under the car)
 
Dream On said:
On my 1g, I had to remove one of the crossmembers under the car as well. (I think that's what they're called...long structural supports under the car)

Thats only on a 1g. The 2g does not have the crossmember under the front of the oil pan so pan removal is made easier.
 
RTV is such a loose term the tiles on the space shuttle are held on by RTV! probably not the same stuff you use on your oil pan:D
 
Use the "right stuff" it's a little pricey but it works well just clean everything well and let cure for 15 hours like someone else said. Letting it cure is one of the key elements to having no leaks.
 
ok heres an issue. ive got all the bolts pulled from my oil pan (FWD mind you.. so no removing half the car for me :p) and i still cant get the pan off. Ive tried banging on it with a soft mallet, and it still wont budge free. I know in the repair manual it says you need a "special tool" what else can i use to get this tough bastard off?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top