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OBX Camshafts

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TheBlueNinja89

10+ Year Contributor
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Feb 11, 2010
Bowling Green, Florida

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People will come in here and complain about OBX and their products. Others will say that they're all crap. Will have some mixed reviews. I really don't know how many people are actually running these cams.

I personally have had no issues with OBX products. However for cams, I would go with something more name-brand and known, such as Crane & Crower.
 
I know two people who have gone with OBX cams and the lobes rounded off. Most other OBX products work great, including their cam gears.

A good idea is to call delta camshaft and have them grind you a set... Also, it's probably a better idea to go with something larger than a stage 1, otherwise you really aren't going to make decent gains and it's fairly labor/cost intensive.
 
im not worried about labor or gaskets i can do the work myself and i work at a parts store LOL. but i hope somebody gives me first-hand feedback for these camshafts.

I gave you firsthand feedback, the lobes round off.

I also said, it's probably a better idea to go with a little bit bigger cam that way you will actually notice some gains.

Lastly, I said give delta a call and they can grind you some cams to whatever specs you want for relatively cheap and they don't have quality control issues on their cams. I assume you picked these because of their price, which is the reason for this statement.

Otherwise go with crane or comp cams.
 
for $350, you might as well spend a few more dollars (and by few more i mean like 30-40 more) and get name brand stage 2 crower or cranes. About everyone who has ever got stage 1, wished they got stage 2. As for their advertising, gains from 1000-6500? From what i personally felt and everything else i have read says they don't feel anything till they hit their power-band around the 3500-4000 mark on up.
 
thats true . get brian crower. your wasting so much. just get a better brand
 
I run Crowers (NOT BC... there are no products for the 420a from them) and have had no problems with them. Got about a good 20,000 miles on my "Stage 2" and have had them out of the head about 4 times since I've installed them. Lobes are in great shape as well as the rest of the cam. I would buy again.

And as said above, "Stage 1" isn't worth the money. Go with the "2" if you're going to get cams
 
im not looking for substantial gains, just affordable cams that i can run on a stock valvetrain to complement my intake and exhaust. this is my everyday car so it wont be getting abused LOL.

regardless, you might as well spend a few more dollars to get a much better product. Especially since its your daily driver, why would you want to get something that is less reliable?
 
im not looking for substantial gains, just affordable cams that i can run on a stock valvetrain to complement my intake and exhaust. this is my everyday car so it wont be getting abused LOL.

You aren't going to get substantial gains either way... Especially for a stage 1, you really are just wasting money. You will have ZERO lope or notice any realistic difference.

Most people buy cams for the lope, with the power gains being a plus. If you are wanting to do that, you really won't gain either attribute with a stage 1.
 
well i know that the higher the stage, the bigger the lift duration or w/e number is,so being more than stock, even stage 1, there has to be a difference. but having the valves open longer is supposed to make some kind of improvement right?
 
Hold on, first off, if the guy wants to waste his money let him, no need to get your feather ruffled. Second, to say that most people buy cams more for the lope than the performance is just asinine. Third, No matter what he does to his car, unless he goes boost or a high comp. build or N2o, he won't see substantial gains. People think that a coil, exhaust and header with net you 30hp....bogus.... maybe all that plus cams, a bigger TB, Port patched everything and a UDP will net you 30 hp.

OP: If you aren't going to beat on your car then don't get cams. That's a waste of your money considering cams are (pay attention now class) installed to change the lift and duration of your valves to change the characteristics of your power band so that it can be better utilized.(ie. boost or high revs from a built head) Long story short, as with any major performance part(Auto Zoo mufflers and plastic intakes don't count) you're installing it to get more performance or *go faster*, which is more wear and tear on an engine than what it would normally see. If you want to utilize just about ANY cam, you have to hit the power band which is from 3500 to redline and up(if you have a built valvetrain) Your stock head will have nothing to do with how well your cams perform. The stock valve train will only limit how high you can safely rev your engine. So after that novel.....if you aren't going to "use" the cams, then why buy them? If you are going to use them, then get some Crower 2's. You'll spend a little more, but it will be worth it.
 
i plan on rebuilding the block but not anytime soon, im going high compression but im not going aggressive on anything. stock rev, fine by me im not building a drag/race car. 7k rpm stock is enough for me im not runnin in nascar LOL. but, im goin by what kazoo first said he knows people who rounded their obx camshafts but did they abuse their cars? but i will definitely not get mine grinded. ive done all the bolt on parts except an ignition system. so with an open breathing intake and a straight through exhaust i figured camshafts would help make up for the loss of back pressure.
 
oohh OP you are so misinformed... why are you making up for loss of back-pressure? loss of back-pressure is a good thing... read up on it here
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...8578-exhaust-straight-scoop-backpressure.html
but as most are saying you seem to have your mind made up. I am still confused, you don't want to go all out with stage 2,s (despite the fact most people including me are using them in their DD's) yet you want to rebuild your block to higher comp yet you are doing that to not be aggressive?? Anyone else confused? That's like saying, I plan on turboing my car but only running 1-2 lbs of boost.

To me it sounds like you are scared of having idle or maybe tuning problems, and scared to hurt the overall reliability of your car. If you are really concerned on that, just stick with mods that will not only add a tiny bit of power but also can increase your cars longevity, like a UDP and crankscraper and call it a day. If you are going to spend the money get stage 2's you will be happier in the long run.

But that is my last plea to you, like people are saying it sounds like you have already made up your mind.
 
OBX puts little to no R&R into their products. Most of their designs are ripped off from other companies. I have a couple of OBX products as well(a catch can and a fuel rail I haven't installed yet) but I don't trust most of their stuff. Their Mani's crack, their FMU's fail, and their cam's apparently have horrible metal composition characteristics. Gotta give props where props is due to Fowtown, too. There's a reason not too many people have first hand experience with OBX cams....'El Junko! Take it as a sign. You asked for our advice OP, you've got it. Now comes the hard part....using it. There's a reason everyone keeps telling you no. Good Day fine sirs!
 
i am taking the advice im not getting the obx camshafts. and when i say loss of back pressure i know its a good thing i meant the fact that i god rid of it im going for the right parts to compliment the mods already done to my car. if i go stage 2 is it necessary to upgrade the valve train? its an automatic so would the rev limiter keep it from messing up the stock springs and valves etc? this is why im thinking stage 1 but if its safe ill go stage 2. and the high compression is because im not big on boost im heading the other way on the block. if i turbo its gonna be like 5 lbs i dont want to have to put more fuel than stock if i turbo at all. i mean ive got a 93 stealth with a 6g72 dohc sitting in my yard if i decide to make a play toy its gonna be that. but either way thats so far away from now im just makin plans for the future who knows what else will be said and done by then right?
 
Gotcha mate. You won't need a valve train upgrade though. Ours can handle 7500 easy with good oil. A high comp build is a noble proposition for the 420a....Your go to guy for that is Bullet...... ..... ......
 
No problem on the stock valve train. No need to upgrade. As for high comp, the question would be how high? I actually got a brand new set of 15 to 1 Arias' for sale right now :p. But I'm thinking you don't want it that high, LOL.

I ran 10.9 comp on 93 as a daily no problems. I'm under the belief that we could do 12.5 on pump, but I haven't gotten around to trying it out, so I can't say for sure.

MB
 
No problem on the stock valve train. No need to upgrade. As for high comp, the question would be how high? I actually got a brand new set of 15 to 1 Arias' for sale right now :p. But I'm thinking you don't want it that high, LOL.

I ran 10.9 comp on 93 as a daily no problems. I'm under the belief that we could do 12.5 on pump, but I haven't gotten around to trying it out, so I can't say for sure.

MB

Hmm, I have a set of 12.5cr pistons in mah garage right now...

Wanna try :p
 
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