2G OBD Port Inoperable

[spyderdrifter]

I keep forgetting to post this, so I'm forcing myself to do it. My OBD port seemingly does not work while having my scanner/code reader hooked up. The reader says there's no communication. First thing I did was plug it into my DD to ensure the scanner works, and it does. I talked to @Dusty Landrum since he's also local to me, and we went through testing the connections between the ECU and OBD port. Everything checked out fine. I've even had 2 other spare ECUs in the car with the same results.

Another "test" of sorts, is the process of programming a key fob by bridging pins 1 and 4 on the OBD port. I e done this process on past DSMs with no issue. This one will not even register that the pins are bridged, thus won't allow the programming procedure to happen.

I'm out of ideas on what to try. Any help would be great.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Which vehicle? What model year? Original harness?

 

[spyderdrifter]

Original harness, 97 gst spyder.

 

[chrysler kid]

did you check the power locks fuse in the footwell that controls power to the obd2 port

 

[spyderdrifter]

I have looked at every fuse under the dash and under the hood, all are good. Power locks do work, but the driver door look is a bit slow when moving. I'm assuming that's the lock actuator though. Even the security light illuminates when the lock switch is pressed.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Do you have battery voltage at pin 16?

Double whammy, here, but do you have continuity between pins 4 and 5? Do pins 4 and 5 have continuity to ground?

 

[spyderdrifter]

Do you have battery voltage at pin 16?

Double whammy, here, but do you have continuity between pins 4 and 5? Do pins 4 and 5 have continuity to ground?

I'll double check those when I get home and let you know.

 

[Dusty Landrum]

I'll double check those when I get home and let you know.

Everything mentioned above with voltage and grounds is exactly what we ran though with the meter. All checked out good.

Do you have battery voltage at pin 16?

Double whammy, here, but do you have continuity between pins 4 and 5? Do pins 4 and 5 have continuity to ground?

We troubleshot all the OBD pins for correct placement and also correct voltage/ground. Also verified continuity between the pins and the ECU such as the comm wire and all checked out good.

 

[19Eclipse90]

If everything has been checked and verified, I can only imagine there might be an issue with the pins in the data link connector not able to make good contact with the scanner.

Have you tried jumpering between the connector and scanner to rule that out?

Are you able to use a voltmeter to read anything from the ETACS ECU?

I realize that the ETACS is different from reading the engine ECU, just curious if you can get readings out from the connector of any type somehow.

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[Dusty Landrum]

If everything has been checked and verified, I can only imagine there might be an issue with the pins in the data link connector not able to make good contact with the scanner.

Have you tried jumpering between the connector and scanner to rule that out?

Are you able to use a voltmeter to read anything from the ETACS ECU?

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We did troubleshoot through Inspection 1, tree 54-8 but no at the time Tom and I were troubleshooting we did not run through all the pins to look for deflection.

 

[steve]

Just to be sure, the car doesn't have DSMLink? I've seen a bunch lately configured to default to the ECMTuning startup mode and they won't talk to a OBD II scanner that way.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Correct Steve, no DSMLink, yet, and even pulled the cover off the ECU to verify that as well as a visual check of the components. I will start probing the ETACS and check to see if all the OBD pins are fully seated, corroded, or anything else out of the ordinary.

 

[spyderdrifter]

All pins on the OBD port look good and are fully seated. What's this orange block on the harness? OBD test port? I'm probably just reaching for an answer that doesn't exist with that idea.

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[spyderdrifter]

Have you tried jumpering between the connector and scanner to rule that out?

How can I jump across the 2? Just run the same amount of wires between them and hope they don't touch?

That may sound sarcastic, but it isn't. I honestly don't know.

Are you able to use a voltmeter to read anything from the ETACS ECU?

I realize that the ETACS is different from reading the engine ECU, just curious if you can get readings out from the connector of any type somehow.

Is there a troubleshoot guide for what to check on the ETACS?

***EDIT***

I never noticed this before. Got this random black wire spliced into the ETACS, and in front of my middle finger, there's a black w/ white stripe wire, that's cut.

Looks like I'll be pulling the ETACS box out and investigating further.

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[19Eclipse90]

All pins on the OBD port look good and are fully seated. What's this orange block on the harness? OBD test port? I'm probably just reaching for an answer that doesn't exist with that idea.

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It’s a diode on Spyder models, for the convertible top.

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I mean actually pulling pins out of the data link connector and adjusting as the manual suggests to improve contact, like these:

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How can I jump across the 2? Just run the same amount of wires between them and hope they don't touch? That may sound sarcastic, but it isn't. I honestly don't know.

That would be the basic idea, yes. I don’t have a great way of explaining it past that. This only goes to determine whether the issue is the connection between the car and the scanner or not.

Is there a troubleshoot guide for what to check on the ETACS?

The Chassis Electrical section of the FSM highlights a number of tests. I want to reiterate I realize that the ETACS and engine ECUs are different - this is solely to determine that you can obtain some information from the data link connector. It would at least let us know that something is working there.

I never noticed this before. Got this random black wire spliced into the ETACS, and in front of my middle finger, there's a black w/ white stripe wire, that's cut. Looks like I'll be pulling the ETACS box out and investigating further.

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I’m probably MIA most of the rest of the weekend so hopefully you find where this is supposed to go and, more hopefully, it helps you get to the bottom of this issue.

 

[19Eclipse90]

If that black and white wire comes from the connector (B-66) just above the right relay pictured, unfortunately, I don’t expect it is related.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Found where the other end of the added black wire ends, and where that location got cut from...

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I really wish people would leave the factory wiring alone. This is gonna be a pain to reach for repairs, even if it ends up not being the problem.