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black_eclipse96

10+ Year Contributor
284
2
Sep 12, 2008
Vernon, Texas
okay folks. i just got a 98 eclipse gsx with 89,000 miles. here's the problem it runs lean at all times. not sure what turbo it's running but it has a greddy bov and fmic. whats the best way to fix this.
 
I should also mention that if you want to emulate a stock O2 sensor, you have to cut into your stock wiring harness....which I frown upon. The harness will cost an arm and a leg if you screw it up, and I dunno about 2g's but the dealer has stopped making them for the 1g.
 
ok so you just add one for the wide band. what about the narrow band. is the narrow band using a stock o2 or how does that work

The narrowband is going off the stock O2 sensor. It just sees what the ecu sees. And right now, the ecu isn't seeing crap so it's adding fuel as a fail safe. Lean=faster but too lean equals no more motor. rich=slower but a little rich won't kill your motor. The narrowband taps into the stock harness (usually at the ecu). You can keep it there. It won't hurt anything if it's already there. You'll notice the gauge become way more active once you change out the sensor.

Oh, and when driving around, it'll bounce around back and forth like Kit from Night Rider. Once you punch the throttle, it'll light up in one area and stay there until you let off the gas. Once you let off the gas, it'll go straight to lean. Go back to cruise and it'll start bouncing back and forth again. On initial start up, it'll be slow to do anything until the sensor warms up (about a minute or less usually).
 
"I think you mean to say that he's running rich because of the bad O2 and that there's no way he's running rich at 10 psi. "

WOOPS, I got it backward I was so busy dealing with my car running rich I actually posted wrong. I meant to say lean instead of rich, and since I said rich made everybody else think rich.
 
Wow alot of bad info in this thread... First off... octane booster is rediculous... "octane boost 104" ya.. I raises you octance like .4 so instead of 93 you now have 93.4!!! wow..

Another thing if he put 89 in his car and just drove it normal he would be fine.. Its when he goes into boost that the lower octane is not stable enough and he will detonate.. but still 10psi.. On my 16g at 8 psi my wideband reads 12.5 on link and no knock once i hit around 15 is when i dips solid to 11.2ish.. I doubt he hurt his engine but it is possible.. YOU NOW SHOULD ALWAYS RUN THE HIGHEST OCTANE AT THE PUMP

Next thing.. If you coolant sensor is bad it will cause your car to think it is cold.. Which cold means your engine is going to run really rich.. That would cause bad gas mileage.. Remeber that too rich is also bad.. YOu can destroy and engine by being to rich..


Please to a boost leak test.. Google home made boost leak tester.. even though the narrowband is garbage it will tell you if your front o2 is cycling... From the looks of it it looks like your front o2 is burned up.. Make sure it is connected right. The signal wire for the gauge splices into the blue wire on the front o2.. Remember your splicing in.. not cutting.. If it is hooked up right and your front o2 is not cycling then you will need a new one... Your front o2 doesn't do anything at WOT but it does effect normal driving conditions..

Are you blowing black smoke when your WOT?? If so that is rich.. If not then it is probaly lean.. The stock 2g fuel map is VERY rich so you should be throwing a pretty nice black cloud from the exhaust.. ALSO i would do the maint. New NGK BPR6ES and a set of accel spark plug wires would do you good for your boost levels and mods list.. Just take yor time and look around the engine bay and see if anything looks out of place or if you have any leaks..
 
well i just put a full tank or 93 so im good now. ok no balck smoke at all. really havent seen any smoke . another question does the narrow band connect to the o2. i have a set of focuz 10.2 mm wires on it. i dont want to go wot till this gets fixed. will take a pic of everything later on due to it's pouring rain.
 
Yes the narrowband connects to it.. You will have a hot(red) and ground(black) then a signal(i think its purple) that purple goes to the blue wire on the front o2.. You have to cut into the wire a little and then elec. tape it up
 
Wow alot of bad info in this thread... First off... octane booster is rediculous... "octane boost 104" ya.. I raises you octance like .4 so instead of 93 you now have 93.4!!! wow..

Another thing if he put 89 in his car and just drove it normal he would be fine.. Its when he goes into boost that the lower octane is not stable enough and he will detonate.. but still 10psi.. On my 16g at 8 psi my wideband reads 12.5 on link and no knock once i hit around 15 is when i dips solid to 11.2ish.. I doubt he hurt his engine but it is possible.. YOU NOW SHOULD ALWAYS RUN THE HIGHEST OCTANE AT THE PUMP

Next thing.. If you coolant sensor is bad it will cause your car to think it is cold.. Which cold means your engine is going to run really rich.. That would cause bad gas mileage.. Remeber that too rich is also bad.. YOu can destroy and engine by being to rich..


Please to a boost leak test.. Google home made boost leak tester.. even though the narrowband is garbage it will tell you if your front o2 is cycling... From the looks of it it looks like your front o2 is burned up.. Make sure it is connected right. The signal wire for the gauge splices into the blue wire on the front o2.. Remember your splicing in.. not cutting.. If it is hooked up right and your front o2 is not cycling then you will need a new one... Your front o2 doesn't do anything at WOT but it does effect normal driving conditions..

Are you blowing black smoke when your WOT?? If so that is rich.. If not then it is probaly lean.. The stock 2g fuel map is VERY rich so you should be throwing a pretty nice black cloud from the exhaust.. ALSO i would do the maint. New NGK BPR6ES and a set of accel spark plug wires would do you good for your boost levels and mods list.. Just take yor time and look around the engine bay and see if anything looks out of place or if you have any leaks..

I wouldn't say this thread is full of a lot of bad info. Are you referring to my information? 89 Octane? No he doesn't need it in there. Drive normal and yeah, maybe he'd be okay but who would ever not not punch the throttle and why throw 89 in there to begin with? I know I wouldn't.

Already mention the coolant sensor causing him to run rich. Maybe if he runs extremely rich is gonna ruin his motor but if his coolant temp sensor goes bad, it's not gonna add so much fuel that it destroys his motor. Come on now, don't scare the crap out of the guy. Hell, I've put in 1000cc injectors and forgot to change my chip and fouled out my plugs in less than a minute but my motor seemed to be okay. Lol. Let's get realistic here. Going lean in a short amount of time is enough to burn up his motor though.

The reason the wire is going up under the dash near the stereo is because most people splice into the wires at the ecu (which is under the stereo under the center console). Remove the panel to the left of the console and you'll see it tucked away. Probably have to remove the one on the right and the left to get to it properly though. If it's already hooked up, just make sure it has a good connection. Personally, since your codes are already pulling up an O2 sensor for the CEL, you more than likely have a bad O2 sensor so to check all the wiring for the gauge is probably just a waste of time. If you throw in a new O2 sensor and the gauge still doesn't work properly, THEN go thru all that crap.

And I will say that cutting into a wire and just throwing electrical tape is ghetto. Same reason I had a blown gauge cluster, dimmer switch, alarm system, stereo, etc. when I bought this new 2g. Yay.
 
okay guys thanks for all the information. for now the car is sitting for about two weeks. i will post when i get a new sensor and a wideband
 
i'd bet that insufficient coolant temp code has to do with the bad 02 sensor. When your sensor goes bad it puts your car into a safe mode which is where the "closed loop" is coming from. Make sure he hasnt messed with the sensor at all either. try to follow the wiring a up a little to see if it has been tampered with at all. make sure it still goes into the stock connector. I wouldnt be surprised if it has been. 02 sensors are VERY touchy with their readings. hopefully the wiring is fine and if so you should just be able to replace the sensor. Get a bosche factory replacement. they are plug and play, impossible to mess up. And i bet once you replace that your insufficient coolant temp code will go away. Until you fix those codes you cant really do any troubleshooting on engine performance because of that variable. If you have been running 89 octane that could have been a leading cause of your sensor going bad. dont ever run less than 91. preferably 93 octane.
 
also, usually running rich will make your engine run cooler. running lean will make it run hotter. and being in safe mode from a bad 02 sensor will cause you to run rich and cooler. Which may be the cause of the insufficient coolant temp. again, replace the 02 sensor first then see if the coolant temp code goes away.
 
well already replaced o2 sensor. codes are off, but still horrible gas mileage. friday i'm ordering the aem uego wideband
 
Dude, pull your plugs. Can't say it enough times. If they're fouled out, they're not gonna ignite your fuel as well as it should and....bah....anywho, check em and get back to us.
 
ya checked them already. a lil black but not bad.

what kinda plugs and what gap? Ya may as well change em out. Price is cheap. Get ya some NGK's. BPR6's or 7's. And if you can get an Innovate wideband, it's better (and I've seen the digital ones for less money too). But if ya insist on AEM, it'll work.
 
Replace the thermostat. The insufficient temp code can be set because of a lower than stock thermostat temp or not having a thermostat. For the engine to run efficient, the computer wants to see that the engine is at a set temp after a predetermined amount of running time. Some codes won't set until after two or more trips (starting and driving the vehicle over the predetermined amount of running time). With a bad or lower than stock thermostat, the engine runs cooler than it should. Cool engines need more fuel. More fuel, bad mileage.
 
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