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new to turbos

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black_eclipse96

10+ Year Contributor
284
2
Sep 12, 2008
Vernon, Texas
okay folks. i just got a 98 eclipse gsx with 89,000 miles. here's the problem it runs lean at all times. not sure what turbo it's running but it has a greddy bov and fmic. whats the best way to fix this.
 
that would lead me towards a bad o2 sensor.

do you have any way of watching the fuel trim # with a scan tool instead of your a/f gauge??
 
no not at all. im sort of new to the turbo motor. i recently just sold my old rs.so a bad o2 sensor how come it just doesn't say that LOL. people already informed me that a narrow band o2 sensor aren't accurate. im currently running 10 pounds of boost.
 
I'd recommend to buy some octane booster to even out that 89 poop you put in the car. Change the 02 sensor out its quite easy. The thermostat may be done but try resetting the codes and see if the coolant code pops up again. Its all of 10 dollars for a new thermostat and is easy to change as well. Learn & read as much as you can about your new car. You can damage this car very easily if you neglect it or abuse it. These cars arent rare ferrari's but they are finicky and require attention to keep them at top operating conditions. GL & Enjoy ! :hellyeah:
 
ok will take it apart again tomorrow. well saving for a wideband o2 sensor to get a better reading.i just got some 550cc injectors today but dont have a way to tune them. the only reason i took them because they were FREE!!!!!!!!!
 
The reason its reading rich is because your o2 sensor is bad and if its a t25 at 10lbs there is no way you are running rich. Take the intake off and lets see the wheel I'll be able to tell if its a t25 or t28 then.

I think you mean to say that he's running rich because of the bad O2 and that there's no way he's running rich at 10 psi.

Also, a thermostat won't get rid of your code. Check engine codes are only set off because of a sensor that is bad, not hooked up, etc. It's electrical. If you blow a tire, you won't get a check engine code. Nor will you get one if a thermostat goes bad. High coolant temps maybe, but no cel code. I have a 2g but it's late and can't remember but if it's like a 1g, there's a coolant temp sensor for the ecu, and one for the gauge. The one to the ecu is being set off cause it's either bad or maybe not hooked up. It'll be around the thermostat housing somewhere. That could cause you to run rich as well because your ecu will think the car is cold and in start-up mode and adds additional fuel until it warms up. I'd try that sensor 1st before you try the O2 sensor.

Have you taken a look at your plugs yet?!?!? They will tell a lot about how your motor is running, almost like sticking a thermometer up your butt to check your temp.
 
ok will take it apart again tomorrow. well saving for a wideband o2 sensor to get a better reading.i just got some 550cc injectors today but dont have a way to tune them. the only reason i took because they were FREE!!!!!!!!!

DO NOT throw in 550cc injectors in right now. If you're running rich right now, adding more fuel will just make it run worse right now. Fix the issues at hand, then go from there. Adding more fuel also doesn't make you go faster. I know a lot of people that think that throwing a lot of fuel at a car will make it run faster. They seem to think that cause of carb'd motors where you're adding more fuel. But actually, you're flowing more air and adding the extra fuel to get the proper mixture. Hold on to those injectors until you need them. Or sell them to me soon and make a profit. Lol.
 
Well definitely dont up your boost now if your already running lean. So lean it is for sure? If its reading a higher number then thats lean due to having more air than fuel than stoich (14.7 ).
 
And if you are running lean (if you're on a stock turbo), it might be because you have a boost leak, fuel pump going out on ya, etc.
 
At what position is the gauge pointing on your narrowband gauge? And retract what I said about boost leaks. That should make you run rich cause you're losing all your air. I'm tired, can't think. Maybe I'm still wrong. Lol. Need sleep.
 
Okay, is it moving back and forth fairly quickly while at idle? Also keep in mind that if your O2 sensor is bad, the reading you're getting on the gauge is gonna be reflected by your bad O2 sensor.
 
nope just stays at the left at all times . once in awhile when i i barely push the gas it will move slightly. looking for a wide band o2 now. i hope this will show the real a/f ratio
 
Okay, in that case, you probably have a bad O2 sensor, which will make you run rich (as well as the coolant temp sensor as I stated earlier). If you have a good O2 sensor, it should move back and forth fairly quickly when idling. So what you're thinking is lean is just a bad O2 sensor.

You can get a wideband for about $200 or so. Seen some Innovate Widebands sold on Ebay for about $185 (one of the best). Lemme look for one.
 
Regardless, you need a stock O2 sensor 1st before anything. All the wideband will do is tell you what your air/fuel reading is and more than likely it'll say you're rich. Last thing you wanna do is pay $200 for a wideband and foul out the new sensor you have on it. The sensor aren't the cheapest in the world. The wideband doesn't tie into your ecu functions at all. The stock O2 sensor DOES effect how your car rides. When you buy a wideband, you don't get rid of your stock O2, you add it (unless you buy one that emulates a stock O2 sensor at the same time, and you'd need to know that before purchasing) in addition to your stock O2. You would usually take the bung that comes with the kit and have a hole cut into your exhaust and have the bung welded on.

Might be cheaper and easier for right now to just buy a stock O2 for now.
 
ok so you just add one for the wide band. what about the narrow band. is the narrow band using a stock o2 or how does that work
 
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