new to turbos

[black_eclipse96]

okay folks. i just got a 98 eclipse gsx with 89,000 miles. here's the problem it runs lean at all times. not sure what turbo it's running but it has a greddy bov and fmic. whats the best way to fix this.

 

[black_eclipse96]

okay i got it all wired up, but the check engine light came on. i haven't welded the bung in yet. i just want to fix the problem before i proceed. another question. it said to weld it up right so no condensation gets in to it. well is there a way to do that on ours. pics would help..

 

[black_eclipse96]

okay at first it ran straight rich (10.5) , then it went to lean after warm up (15
.5) . could i have missed a spot were its welded. this thing has got me puzzled.

 

[babyviper]

Idle should be lean after its warmed up. The reason it is rich when it's cold is to allow the car to warm up. Take some pulls, If you have a t25 like I think you have you will never get lean.

 

[black_eclipse96]

it's a t-25 for sure. a gs-t pulled up next to me and said lets race. i said pull over and pop your hood. his looked exactly like mine. he said it was the stock t-25. i did some pulls and it just stayed in that range. will that fmic do anything. plus still using alot of gas. i hooked up the hot wire to a 10 fuse and the ground is stuck under the drive colum the others were optional. which were white and blue.

 

[rEclipserGST]

it's a t-25 for sure. a gs-t pulled up next to me and said lets race. i said pull over and pop your hood. his looked exactly like mine. he said it was the stock t-25. i did some pulls and it just stayed in that range. will that fmic do anything. plus still using alot of gas. i hooked up the hot wire to a 10 fuse and the ground is stuck under the drive colum the others were optional. which were white and blue.

Good call man. I had a problem with my car, chased down a decked out eclipse gst, asked him what shop works on his car, and now my car is finally running right. Just got it back today

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

okay at first it ran straight rich (10.5) , then it went to lean after warm up (15
.5) . could i have missed a spot were its welded. this thing has got me puzzled.

So then, whats the problem? During WOT your car runs rich(if your car is stock then the inferior AEM wideband will read 10.0), while normal cruise and idle anything around 14.7 is ok. Also before your car warms up it also runs rich.

 

[black_eclipse96]

when i first started the car it ran rich. 10.0 then when it warmed up 14.9 -15.0 at idle. at wot it goes to 15.6 (full boost). at cruise it stays at 15.6

 

[OneBad2L]

at wot it goes to 15.6 (full boost). at cruise it stays at 15.6

Stop going WOT until it is fixed, that numbers way to lean. How's it feel(breaking up)? It should read around 10.8-11.2:1 at WOT and around 14.7 at cruise.

 

[black_eclipse96]

it didn't fell like it was breaking up at all. yeah i'm not anymore,but had to do some pulls to see what happens. so bigger fuel pump?????

 

[OneBad2L]

Update your profile to what you know you have in there. Could be the fuel filter, I'd start with that if you're all stock in the fuel area.

 

[black_eclipse96]

updated, i think thats about it.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Okay, did you ever change out the stock O2 sensor? On a T-25 it shouldn't be going lean like that. Think maybe fuel filter or something as well to keep fuel from getting to the motor. Would be nice if you knew your fuel pressure or injector duty cycle. Wonder how much voltage the fuel pump is getting and if the pump is good.

 

[black_eclipse96]

yes just the upstream one. what does the downstream even do???? i'm checking the fuel filter tomorrow, if that doesnt fix it, go to fuel pump. what the voltage for the pump.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

The downstream compares the difference between the front and the rear. It sucks on 2g's cause if you get an exhaust system where the catalytic converter is messed with etc., it sets off the check engine light. And sometimes just a catback exhaust is enough to set it off. 1g's don't have this issue. So if you have a check engine light and the code gets pulled and it says O2 sensor, it's more than likely because of this. There's a way to bypass this but forget where it's at right off hand. Might be able to find it on vfaq.com though.

As for the pump, the stock wiring seems to lose voltage by the time it gets to the pump which cuts down on the flow. This is why people do a fuel pump rewire, which helps. Forget what current you should be seeing right off hand but every little bit helps. Knowing what your fuel pressure would be a big help too. Could get this for a small amount and be set...

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - B & M Fuel Pressure Gauge Set: Honda/Mitsubishi

It also helps when going with a bigger fuel pump and then needing to adjust your fuel pressure back down to stock levels. But personally, I bought an electric one so that if there's any issues under WOT conditions, I'll know immediately.

 

[black_eclipse96]

well all fixed my friends. the problem was i did miss a spot on the bung and the air was leaking out. welded it shut and it running great.!!!!!!

thanks for all the help.