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2G New to me 96 GS with some minor issues.

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96_GS_420a_NA

Probationary Member
6
0
Dec 30, 2016
Spokane, Washington
Okay, the trans in my wife's car crapped out, so last night we bought a 96 eclipse GS, 420a, naturally aspirated, automatic trans, just under 150k miles.

Body wise, its almost perfect. Only found one small spot of rust bubbling the paint on the driver side rear wheel well.

The engine appears to be mostly well kept. There is a rather minimal amount of oil in places it shouldn't be.

The issues that we bought it with are the exhaust has been straight piped with a crappy muffler. Due to the straight pipe, there is no catalytic converter which is causing a check engine light. Also, I believe this is related to the exhaust, when slowing down after accelerating the engine RPMs dip VERY low and almost stalls but then picks back up to normal, as well as when accelerating hard there is a fair amount of black smoke (symptom of unspent fuel afaik). I plan on restoring the exhaust system back to mostly stock, will this help with the rpm dip and black smoke symptoms?

Also, the guy had some (probably) crappy HID headlights installed which is causing an inability to switch between high beams and low beams. The high beam indicator turns on and off, but its just stuck on low beam. From what I read this should be an easy fix but if anybody has experienced this before, some help would be appreciated.

Other than that everything else should be easy to fix.
The heater isn't working but those systems usually aren't difficult to work on plus the car came with a cigarette lighter plug in heater thing.

The passenger door exterior handle doesn't work.

Missing one piece of exterior door trim.

The drivers (power) window works until the last inch or two of closing it but it can be manually pulled up.

I've always liked these cars and I'm glad we finally own one. I would have preferred to get the turbo model, but its hard to complain for only 700 bucks especially since we were in a pinch and needed the car asap.
 

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Have you read the codes for the CEL yet? The RPM dip may be tripping the CEL, TPS maybe? Sorry, not to familiar with N/A

Just remove the HID kit if it's a bad quality, hopefully he didn't hack the wireing and it should be fine.
 
Have you read the codes for the CEL yet? The RPM dip may be tripping the CEL, TPS maybe? Sorry, not to familiar with N/A

Just remove the HID kit if it's a bad quality, hopefully he didn't hack the wireing and it should be fine.
I'll be checking the code tonight after work to verify what exactly is going on before doing anything.

I'll have to look Into what HID brand it is. The lights thtem selves seem to work fine and are bright enough. Just annoying not having high beams. Tomorrow I'll actually have a chance to look at everything in better light. Was 11pm last night when we bought it.

Any advice is appreciated. I'm used to my carbed truck so all this electronic control stuff is not in my wheel house.
 
I'll be checking the code tonight after work to verify what exactly is going on before doing anything.

I'll have to look Into what HID brand it is. The lights thtem selves seem to work fine and are bright enough. Just annoying not having high beams. Tomorrow I'll actually have a chance to look at everything in better light. Was 11pm last night when we bought it.

Any advice is appreciated. I'm used to my carbed truck so all this electronic control stuff is not in my wheel house.

Yeah, electrical issues are definietly not my favorite thing to work on. Keep us updated on what the CEL turns out to be. The RPM dip could be a real simple fix, like a sensor.
Best of luck, I'm sure some of the N/A guys will show up and help you more.
 
So, got the code. It is a P0420 which is just the rear 02 sensor saying that the cat isn't working which makes sense since its not there. Did run into an issue yesterday where it didn't want to stay running (cold start). So after a little research I have a feeling the cools t temp sensor isn't functioning correctly. This morning I was able to kind of verify thus, engine had been off for over 12 hours and its only 30 degrees here but the temp gauge was reading a quarter of the way up. So I'm gonna replace that sensor and hopefully that will help with cold starts.

My first thought was the fuel filter (had a similar starting issue on a different car a few months ago) so I replaced the filter, while I was under the eclipse though, I noticed pretty extensive damage to the passenger side unibody frame rail. Almost like the PO jumped this thing onto a boulder or something. So that was slightly heart breaking.

I've also noticed some pretty severe cancer on the front passenger side strut tower. Is there any recommended way to fix that location? Would hate to hit a pot hole and tear the strut out.

Thanks for your help.
 
what I did fo rust on a car awhile back (an old beater for experimenting LOL) I took a wire brush and attached it to a drill then went to town with it and got as much rust off as possible, then I cleaned up the area, threw some primer and spray paint, then just covered the fender well with roofing tar and it held up nicely for the year that I had it till I sold it. maybe if ur looking into a proper restore maybe rhinoline the fender wells and underbody, its the same stuff they use for truck beds so I imagine it would work well
 
for the rust you can cut it out nd tack it up, or if its really not all that bad like zero said just wire brush it primer paint will do the job
 
Apparently my email notifications aren't making it to my inbox for replies on this post so sorry this is delayed. The rust is beyond wire brush on the shock tower. It'll be a cut and replace deal.

An update on the stalling issue though, I have the throttle cable pulled back to keep the tb butterfly open to keep it idling which works for now. Since this method is working, my assumption is that the IAC is either inoperable or cruded up with carbon. Tomorrow I will be taking it out to clean or replace it. Would it be better to remove the throttle body or unbolt the egr tube and leave the tb in place? My experiences with egr tubes in the past has been if you mess with it, it breaks or the bolts are rusted in place. I'm leaning towards removing the tb. I can't visualize whether the egr tube is bolted into the tb or the im though. Guess I'll find out tomorrow when I do it.

Thanks go out to you all that are helping me out!
 
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