New everything and clutch wont disengage?

[my first 420a]

Okay so Ive recently had an entire motor rebuilt but thats not relevant right now. So everything is pretty much new and Ive got the motor in, the tranny in, and everythings hooked up right, with the help of a fellow dsm'er. The motor is solid runs great, but the problem is the clutch wont disengage so I cant put it into when its running. Now Ive bled it plenty of times and even tried to adjust the clutch pedal assembly under the dash and do that thing where you turn a screw and keep pushing in the slave cylinder until you cant push it in anymore that way you know the bleeder valve is blocked off. and Ive searched and searched and cant find anymore answers. please tell me I dont have to pull the tranny out

all parts are new: clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, master cylinder

Thanks guys its been a long road to get to where I am right now and it still doesnt drive

Would I need an extended push rod? the clutch is brand new rhino pac clutch, and the slave cylinder is new too also made by rhino pac.

 

[Boostinsideways]

You have done the following it says in your post :

Bleed clutch
Under Dash Pedal Adjustment
New Slave
New Clutch, Slave, Master, Flywheel

Did you replace the clutch fork and throughout bearing? Have you traced your lines? Might be a kink somewhere that is not allowing good pressure.

Those are the only things I can think of.

 

[Calan]

When you measured the flywheel step height, what was it?

Where does the clutch fork sit in the opening in the bell housing?

 

[my first 420a]

It was all bled, Its all new parts except the fork, but slave cylinder, throwout bearing, resurfaced flywheel, new clutch. the flywheel was machined by a Otts friction supply and a fellow dsm'er told me thats where he had his flywheel done and it was no problem. question though, when bleeding the clutch do you do that through the master cylinder, or slave cylinder?

 

[Blue Talon Boy]

Check out this video for a body.al on much of the fixes that will help you here.

youtube.com/watch?nomobile=1&v=zPKngQ54yJs

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

 

[Sandman817]

when bleeding the clutch do you do that through the master cylinder, or slave cylinder?

Pump up the clutch pedal 5 times then hold it, have you buddy open the bleeder valve to let out fluid then close the valve and pump the pedal again. Keep doing this untill you get all the air out of the system, but make sure you do not run the master dry or else you will have to start all over. Or if you do not have anyone to help you do this, you can always gravity bleed the system. crack the bleeder open with the master cyl cap open and let the fluid drip out, it will allow the air to escape but will take longer. just make sure you do not let the fluid run low.

 

[Calan]

the flywheel was machined by a Otts friction supply and a fellow dsm'er told me thats where he had his flywheel done and it was no problem.

Yeah ok. So what step height did they machine it to, and did you check it?

 

[my first 420a]

Yeah ok. So what step height did they machine it to, and did you check it?

Im not sure, I had a guy help me and I figured if something wasnt right he would point it out........

 

[Project91Tsi]

If I were you, I would crawl under the dash, and look at the clutch pedal assembly. There is a long rod that goes from the clutch pedal to where the master cylinder on the firewall. It is maybe 12-15 inches long if memory serves correct. It is connected to the master cylinder from here, and there is a rectangle shaped notch at the end, which is where it pushes the rod through the firewall into the master cylinder. If the corners get rounded off, you will actually be pushing the clutch pedal down, but the rounded corners will prevent the pushrod from moving into the master cylinder and building pressure to disengage the clutch. If you can push the pedal down, and watch the rectangular shaped notch pivot in the hole but not push the pushrod into the master cylinder, then your clutch pedal assembly is worn out and needs replaced, or welded.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? You MUST make sure the step height on the flywheel was cut to the clutch mfr specs, otherwise it will NEVER EVER disengage properly. If everything else checks out....you simply have a worn out clutch pedal assembly. That's the most common cause for disengagement issues, and unfortunately, one of the biggest PITA fixes to do.

 

[dpun3]

Probably needs to be adjusted

 

[Tyeler18]

You didn't replace the pivot ball. I've found 90% of these problems are caused by that not getting replaced. You said everything is new but it isn't.

 

[99vipereater]

Now Ive bled it plenty of times and even tried to adjust the clutch pedal assembly under the dash and do that thing where you turn a screw and keep pushing in the slave cylinder until you cant push it in anymore that way you know the bleeder valve is blocked off.

So when you adjust the clutch pedal asembly you want to turn the udjustment rod under the dash untill you cant push the slave in anymore. Then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn untill you can push it in again. This alows you get the most travel out of your clutch. If you block off the hole that bleeds fluid back to your resivour your slave will not release all of the way and this could be your problem. Also check where the clutch fork sits in the square opening of the bellhousing if it is half way or closer to the passenger side of the car you may need to remove the transmission and replace the pivot ball or shim it with a washer behind it to give the fork more leaverage. What happens is as you use your clutch the ball wears and the pocket on the fork also wear. The fork then has less leaverage to dissingage the pressure plate.

It is always a good idea to replace the clutch fork and piviot bearing on higher milage engines.