clutch wont disengage

[jgriffith86]

I have a 93 talon and i bought a jdm tranny with my motor and i cannot get the clutch to disengage. I bought a new clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, welded the clutch pedal, have a new 2600 clutch and act flywheel, shimmed the pivot ball, bought a new clutch extension rod, stainless steel clutch line and have blead the crap out of it and nothing works. Every time i push the clutch in and try to put it in gear it just grinds and wont even start to go into gear. Please dont tell me to search because thats all i have been doing i just want to find out whats wrong before i spend any more money. Please help.

Thanks.

 

[jgriffith86]

the car has 113000 but i bought it with out a motor and trans but the guy that had it before me left it stock.

 

[crazyboost]

Morpheus or someone else who has welded their assembly - I just pulled my clutch pedal assembly out today, and yes its as frustrating as everyone says, but i have a quesiton about the welding postion. So with my clutch pedal all the up (level with the brake and stationary), should the other lever (the one that goes to the clutch master cylinder) be pushed towards the clutch master cylinder, or away from it so that the lever is towards the rear end of the car? I'm thinking about this too hard and now i just have myself all confused. Could you elaborate a bit on what you said in your previous post with the 5 and 7 oclock positions. Keep in mind that before this i didn't have trouble with my clutch disengaging, i had trouble with it fully engaging, because it would start engaging right before the pedal was all the up, so it would slip. I tried adjusting it out but all that did was shorten the pedal travel even more, and the clutch would grab right before the pedal travel stopped, eventhough i could pull it up another 2 inchs or so. thank you

 

[TalonJohn94]

This thread is very similar to my current thread [Exhausted Everything, What's Left (LOW Clutch Engagement)]

Did you "Bench" bleed the Master Cylinder when you put it in?

That's my next step.

(BTW, does anyone know how you can tell if you used too many pivot ball shims?)

 

[procircuit1250]

I have a '93 TSi that is doing the same thing (clutch wont disengage all the way) My car is currently sitting at a shop and they are trying to tell me that my transmission is bad, because they are all out of ideas as to why it is doing this. I bought a Spec stage 1 clutch and had them put flywheel shims on it to fix the engagement. I had them Mic the flywheel and it is thick enough, but it is still doing the same thing. I got the extended slave cylinder rod, and a new slave cylinder, but it still wont work. I am pretty sure my transmission is fine, because i was driving one day and my shifting started to get really notchy and i started to lose clutch pressure, but nothing happened with the tranny itself that made me think it was bad. Also, this happened minutes after i got off the highway doing some hard driving (125+) I could still drive the car before i took it into the shop, i just had to match revs when i upshifted and downshifted. Basically I am asking if having bad internals i.e. synchros or shift forks could cause a clutch to not disengage all the way.

 

[TalonJohn94]

jgriffith86,

I don't really have time to explain right now, but a DSM mechanic that I talked to recently schooled me on why you sometimes need to do the "weld a nut on the c-clip in the pedal assembly to give you a longer master cylinder rod" trick. DO IT, BECAUSE IT WORKS - AND WILL WORK IN YOUR SITUATION - BECAUSE YOU HAVE ALMOST THE SAME SITUATION I HAD. And you'll be surprised that you only needed those few more centimeters of adjustability. You may even have too HIGH of disengagement at first, believe it or not.

PLEASE try it, and get that 1g back on the road.