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New 16g, What do i need?

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You'll need to port the wastegate hole on that P.O.S. if you want any sort of boost control.

The Chinese were nice enough to give you a 34mm flapper, but the hole underneath comes in around 22mm:

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff165/jusmx141/flapper1.jpg


That hole needs to grow to around 30-31mm in order to gain control of your boost level:

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff165/jusmx141/Wastegate3.jpg



Another issue you're going to find is the outlet of the Evo III turbine housing is around 65mm while the inlet of your stock 2G turbine housing is more like 52mm. If you don't port the factory 2G o2 housing you'll be creating a huge bottleneck in the exhaust system.

Oh I am sure it will be fine! It's a $150 turbo, I mean come on! The chinese are always better at engineering stuff. WTF does mitsu know about making their own turbochargers?

To add, you might as well go ahead and replace your entire CHRA while you're add it, because the chinese give you bearings, but made them with improper materials. So if you want any kind of longevity....
 
To add, you might as well go ahead and replace your entire CHRA while you're add it, because the chinese give you bearings, but made them with improper materials. So if you want any kind of longevity....
True, and they make the shafts thicker now to resist breakage that plagued the Chinese 16G's in the beginning. So now you have a turbo that uses a T3 turbine seal and journal bearings but Mitsu thrust hardware. Good luck finding a parts kit with everything you need all in one.

Just like any of the other Chinese parts, these turbos are designed to be thrown away. Short lifespan with a trip to the scrapyard at the end of it.
 
Oh I am sure it will be fine! It's a $150 turbo, I mean come on! The chinese are always better at engineering stuff.....
:hellyeah: .... LOL


well i dont have a lot of money to throw on a mitsu turbo, and i did not want to hunt down a pos t-25. so thats it! i dont need a opinion on i should of bought this or that. If i had money too do that, belive me i would.
 
well i dont have a lot of money to throw on a mitsu turbo, and i did not want to hunt down a pos t-25. so thats it!
For what you spent, you probably would have been better off getting your T25 rebuilt or finding a 14B like Matt suggested. Of course your T25 must not have had wheel damage to be considered rebuildable, and normally by the time you notice there's a problem with your T25 there is so much shaft play that the wheels are ground down to almost nothing.

A 14B would've mated to your manifold perfectly and still used the stock seal ring, and would've mated to your o2 housing perfectly with no need for porting. The 14B is also better-matched to your stock fuel system allowing more boost to be run so you will "feel" more power. An Evo III at 10psi is pretty lazy, especially on top end.
 
...any opinions on this are more than welcome

Great job putting your foot in your mouth with just one intarweb smiley.

. . .FWIW, the ebay turbo has a GREAT turbine housing! I suggest anyone to run one over the stock 16g housing when you plan to push a real 16g. It has a clean, finished compressor housing. So you got some nice pieces in your ebay rotating assembly that will be moving at over 100K rpms.
 
I expected it...LOL

But i was referring to how i might be able to hook it up. I knew negative replies were coming sooner or later, i have read many other ebay 16g threads.

Do i need to put anything to seal the adapter on the turbo for the oil feed?
 
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No...I knew someone was gonna say something. I get it here and there. I mean im not made of money and honestly when you buy a ebay turbo if it last your lucky..Mine has last and im lucky but so what, It will be replaced. Its my DD so i have no time to order what i want for the time being so it will do. Only time can tell. And your luck
 
Look in the marketplace and check the vendors. Like The DSM graveyard, and all the others..Make sure you check craigslist too in your area
 
Great job putting your foot in your mouth with just one intarweb smiley.

. . .FWIW, the ebay turbo has a GREAT turbine housing! I suggest anyone to run one over the stock 16g housing when you plan to push a real 16g. It has a clean, finished compressor housing. So you got some nice pieces in your ebay rotating assembly that will be moving at over 100K rpms.

Have you actually done metallurgy tests on one or know what kind of iron they used? Seen how the metal fatigues with respect to time? Know how the remerge of the scroll back into the volute reacts when subjected to extreme temperatures for sustained periods of time? Just wondering how you are quantifying "great". I would dearly like to see the inside of the volute from one of these turbos after it's been on a car for 5k miles, to verify that the metal of the turbine housing isn't chipping away.

If PTE / Bullseye / AGP couldn't get that right in their first bolt on turbine housings (made the rejoining area too thin and the entire housing from poor grade material, causing cracks, and dead turbines), I highly doubt that the chinese did on their first try.

I wouldn't let one of these turbos anywhere near a car I valued the longevity of, nor use any parts that they came with. There is simply no data on them.
 
I have same exact turbo on my car. Actually i have bought the full kit including the intercooler. the only thing i wish the kit came with is better clamps. i got this turbo on my car for about 2yrs now and its still building boost. i cant say its shitty cause its china made but so far it have exceed all my expectations.
 
well i pulled my turbo, and apparently its not bad!!! Now im worried after i do the swap, i will have to think what went or is wrong. The car made a noise like a turbo with lots of shaft play(blades hitting & shaft moving) It made this noise in boost! if i cruised the rpm's up(while driving) NO NOISE! If i free rev to about 4-5 hard (as if forcing a blow off) it would make the noise. Let the car sit 30-60min and drove again no noise. Then after some hard pulls and 20min it starts again.

I have a crack in the wastegate side of t-25, not big but i think it goes all the way through. im kinda stumped here, and starting to hope its nothing major...
 
I will never understand why people buy a cheap turbo when they "need" their car running and in the end replace said turbo and spend more money and time than if they bought a used 14b in the first place. Best of luck with your car, hope you don't have to learn this lesson the hard way.


As a sidenote if you are going to run that turbo at least get a proper oil feed line.
 
i would be doing the same thing if i bought a 14b, only diff is the turbo...

FWIW to some out there


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50977628@N05/4708696436/" title="0615101849 by thamarshan, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4708696436_be2522fac3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="0615101849" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50977628@N05/4708696358/" title="0615102113 by thamarshan, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4708696358_bc77001897.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="0615102113" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50977628@N05/4708051469/" title="0615102200 by thamarshan, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1302/4708051469_8731cffb89.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="0615102200" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50977628@N05/4708051503/" title="0615102200a by thamarshan, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4708051503_f576515ffb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="0615102200a" /></a>
 
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aging turbo cars are expensive by nature. if you do't have a ton of money; i'd actually suggest getting a different car as a daily driver. I know this isnt the stuff you want to hear, but it will save you grief in the long run.

I recently picked up a talon that I'm redoing after some moron hacked it all up. It had an eGhey 20g on it. So I pulled it and intsalled it on my other talon (that had motor issues.. and is now the parts car,) this way if it blows up it'll just damage an already hurt engine. I don't trust the chinesse crap. I work in auto parts and have seen WAY to many of the chineese garbage come back. Yes, you'll get lucky sometimes and get a good part... but to me, it's not worth the gamble. I don't like redoing things over and over or buying the same part over and over. I'd say run it since you have it now, but save up for a good turbo.

back on topic... can you describe the noise better? like a grinding, rattling, ect? how does the car act under load? does it feel really sluggish, then all of a sudden take off?
 
Have you actually done metallurgy tests on one or know what kind of iron they used?
One that doesn't have as much nickel as MHI housings....if you let the Chinese housings sit out, they'll rust.
I would dearly like to see the inside of the volute from one of these turbos after it's been on a car for 5k miles, to verify that the metal of the turbine housing isn't chipping away.
If I can find you one that lasts long enough (LOL) I'll gladly post pics. I've not seen one flake or peel; they actually do seem to be a well-built housing.

If PTE / Bullseye / AGP couldn't get that right in their first bolt on turbine housings (made the rejoining area too thin and the entire housing from poor grade material, causing cracks, and dead turbines), I highly doubt that the chinese did on their first try.
You're talking about companies that had to build housings for turbos that were never meant to go on DSM's (Garrett T3). The R&D could've lead to improper housing design, where all the Chinese have done is take a ported Evo III turbine housing, mold it, and recast it. Mitsubishi has already done the R&D for them, which seems to be the norm for Chinese parts.
 
If you dont have enough money to "do it right" the first time...how much money are you gonna have to do it over again?
 
If you dont have enough money to "do it right" the first time...how much money are you gonna have to do it over again?
That's generally the "Catch 22" that follows Chinese performance parts....if you're lucky enough to get something that lasts, you're definitely ahead of the game, but that doesn't speak for the rest of the population who ends up replacing the defective part with a new OEM part.

In the O.P.'s case, he got the knockoff turbo for a good price; I probably would've bought it just for the turbine housing and actuator. If the turbo fails prematurely he can pick up a used 14B with a badly-cracked turbine housing that nobody else wants, and swap the 14B cartridge into his nicely-ported knockoff turbine housing. He'll still have a 14B with a ported 7cm turbine housing for less than $200.
 
If the turbo fails prematurely he can pick up a used 14B with a badly-cracked turbine housing that nobody else wants, and swap the 14B cartridge into his nicely-ported knockoff turbine housing. He'll still have a 14B with a ported 7cm turbine housing for less than $200.

This. . . Is what I'm doing with my green talon.
 
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