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420A Need Help Re-installing Crank Pulley

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RallyEclipse98

15+ Year Contributor
967
29
Jul 31, 2007
Dallas, Texas
After doing my timing belt, water pump, head gasket, all that jazz, I need to get the harmonic balancer back on. I can set the crank pulley on the crank but that's it. I have a bolt that's one inch longer than the factory bolt. I have heard of using washers. I have also heard of heating the pulley to slip it on.

O'Riley's has a crank sprocket installer but they can't tell me over the phone if it will work with the 420a. I live 30 miles from the nearest one so, does anyone know if it works? And finally when I do get the sprocket threaded on, how do I torque it down properly? I would scream so loud if I jumped the timing!

I've searched and searched but haven't found how to torque it down and if O'Riley's generic installer will work.

Thanks for any help.
 
Get a piece of threaded rod, a nut and washer. Thread the rod into the crankshaft, then put the UDP over the rod, then the washer, and thread on the nut. Drive the UDP all the way down by tightening the nut with a wrench. I usually grease the inside slightly to help also.
 
How ever you broke the bolt loose do the same thing. wedge something in the pulley so it can't turn.

105 ft/lbs.. ish. Good luck. I never got that far on my car but thats how I got the bolt loose. Try not to damage anything.
 
I've always been told to put the car in park when you are working on the crankshaft... When my car is getting serviced the ebrake is always on anyway and the wheels blocked in.
Just my opinion...

How did you get the pulley off in the first place? Let's start with that..
 
The crank turns clockwise anyway having the drivetrain locked via E-brake and torquing it to spec should have no ill effects with all four wheels on the ground.
 
what i did was, i hammered the pulley on, i did it by putting the car up on jacks.

1. put the pulley on
2. grab a rubber mallet and hit all around the pulley so it gets somewhat flat , not lopsided on the crank.
3. grab a extension at least 7 inches long, and put it in between the pulley, it should be hitting the oil pan.
4. grab washers, and use the original bolt
5. start with one washer, then remove it, then go two, until it can go all the way down to at least 8-9 washers,
Warning do not go all the way down, because it will be very hard to get the bolt back out unless you have a impact gun.
 
The wheels are off the car and its on a hydraulic lift. I got the pulley off using the appropriate Chrysler puller. I got a pulley installer from O'Riley's so I will see if it works and report back. If not, I will try the washer method as stated above. I will then use an impact gun and torque it down with a hand tool while the car is in gear. I will report back.
 
When I put mine back on I used a 1 inch longer bolt with some large washers. I used hand tools to tighten the bolt down. Once the pully was on far enough I took the longer bolt out and used the crank bolt and torqued it down to 105 ft/lb. To keep the crank from spinning I used the cam sproket holding tool. I let the tool wedge itself against the lower control arm and it held the crank pully in place.
 
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When I put mine back on I used a 1 inch longer bolt with some large washers. I used hand tools to tighten the bolt down. Once the pully was on far enough I took the longer bolt out and used the crank bolt and torqued it down to 105 ft/lb. To keep the crank from spinning I used the cam sproket holding tool. I let the tool wedge itself against the lower control arm and it held the crank pully in place.

There's no real way the timing can jump doing that method?
 
There's no real way the timing can jump doing that method?

I used the tool to hold the crank pully so it could not spin while it was being pressed on. If for any reason the crank did spin while doing this the timing will not jump it would just turn everything over as normal. You can use a prybar to do this also, but the cam tool I had fit the crank pully perfectly.
 
Should be able apply some oil and install the pulley on the crank, then use the impact gun (wrench) and tighten it down. 420a are usually a bi*** to remove the crank pulley. Usually the install is easy. Impact gun makes the removal and install of bolt more manageable.
 
First off, thank you for all the well-written, helpful replies.

What I did:

I got a harmonic balancer pulley installer from O'Riley's. I was told it was the only one they had to lease and that it would work on my 420a Eclipse. I got home and quickly found out it would not work for several reasons. This sent me to go grad an impact gun, washers, and a 1" longer than stock bolt to go through the crank pulley bolt hole. I was able to set the pulley on the crank. While it rested, I put four washers on the bolt and used the impact gun to "push" the pulley on as far as it could. Carefully, I backed out the bolt and repeated the process until I was ready to use the stock bolt. The whole time, a person needs to make sure the crank's threads don't start to cross-thread or be damaged in any way. At first, I thought of putting grease on the bolt. This surely would keep the threads slippery and cool. However, I did not want to risk the bolt slipping out eventually down the road.

Now the bolt was through the pulley and everything looked fine but I needed to check the torque. Instead of jamming a bar between the pulley and the oil pan, my dad put his wits to work. What he suggested (and what I did) was to put a bolt and nut through a vice. Then, take the gun and go through each of its torque settings, 1-4. This way, I could see what torque specs each setting put out. I set the gun on notch "1" and it torqued at 80. Notch "2" torqued down at almost exactly 105 ft lbs. So bingo, I set the gun to notch 2 and that's the end of the story.

If anyone sees this thread in the future, feel free to send me a PM. I plan to be into DSMs for a long time so I should reply quickly.
 
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