Need Help? I broke something!

[TSIkw]

OK, so I was driving around 55mph and downshifted to 3rd...pulled through the top of 3rd and went to shift into 4th and I think it kicked over to 2nd and I redlined (my transmission isn't in the best shape). I then put it right into 5th and let off the gas; the car started backfiring immediately. After that when I gave it gas the turbo spooled but the car hardly moved. The idle then dropped down around 500rpm and giving it gas did nothing. After a couple starts it finally started to rev and I got it home. When I popped the hood the manifold was glowing really bright. Now the car starts right up and will idle "OK" but vacuum is only at 10 and it will rev till around 2500rpm then starts spitting and breaking up. Also, I think the timing belt jumped because the belt cover is now cracked at the front bolt on top.

I need to know what to start looking at first. Valves?, Timing?, Injectors?

Mod List:
DSM Link
VRS 3" Turbo back w/high flow cat
Boost Gauge
Manual boost Controller Running 15psi
190 Walbro (rewired)
ported 14b
ported 1g o2 housing
Excel plug wires and NGK 7ES plugs

 

[oldman]

Alright, I don't have the tools for a leak down test nor the time at this point...so I took it in to a shop today and it's being looked at. Hopefully i'll find out today or tomorrow whats going on with it and i'll let everyone know.

I appreciate all the help. Now i'm just praying

The general consensus on conditions for a successful boost leaktest is system holding 20psi and no more than 30 seconds before it bleeds down to zero, or at least tested to the max psi level you'll be boosting. Make sure you hold them to that standard.

I personally would have spend the money on a $70 compressor from Walmart and $5 tester from HomeDepot because I know a thorough leak test will take hours especially if the car has never been tested lately, there is a lot of fix and retest involved so unless you're paying them $300 labor, I seriously doubt that it will be done thoroughly, reason why everyone does their own leak tests.

 

[TSIkw]

Just got the call from the shop and apparently the timing was way out so they took every apart and and its should be all good now. Really not sure how the timing could have been that bad but i guess it was.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Bigglesworth87]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209184

 

[TSIkw]

Also, I'll recheck my compression now that the timing is back in spec..i think it should have gone up a decent amount. The first test i did before i found the broke balance shaft belt was around 100 per cylinder...replaced the belt and did the 2nd test with it all back together and it was at 125 with timing off. so i'm hoping it goes up to at least 140 now.

 

[TSIkw]

So There is a bad vibration coming from the motor now. I talked to a couple mechanics they said could be balance shaft belt being off a tooth...so i talked to the guy who did the work, he insists that the belts are all lined up right and it can't be that. He tried telling me its my timing belt cover vibrating but i'm having a hard time believing that...

The vibration starts around 3500 rpms and rattles my dashboard and through the whole car. It does it under free rev and when driving (worse when i'm driving though). The steering wheel isn't shaking or anything so it has to be from the motor. The car is running pretty good but it feels like its not quite what is was before all this happened.

Any ideas of what it could be if its not the bs belt being off a tooth.

 

[talonracn49]

Most likely, your balance shaft is out of phase. The probably did line up all the marks, but that is not all that you have to do. You see, the balance shaft nearest the firewall can be lined up on the mark perfectly, and be 360 degrees out of phase, meaning you need to turn it a complete turn and line it back up with the mark. There is a vfaq showing where to insert a screwdriver to check and make sure the shaft is in phase.

I had that exact problem on a 1995 gsx that I rebuilt, and it had the exact symptoms you are describing.

 

[Scrubulum]

There is a vfaq showing where to insert a screwdriver to check and make sure the shaft is in phase.

NOTE that there is an easier way to do this. Simply rotate the mark on the oil pump sprocket until it is pointing straight up, and let it go. If the sprocket rotates towards (counterclockwise) the timing mark on the engine, the oil pump sprocket is aligned correctly. If it rotates away (clockwise) from the mark, spin the sprocket a full turn and test again, and it should properly rotate towards the mark now. Now line the mark on the sprocket back up with the mark on the engine. This avoids having to remove the rear access bolt entirely.

From http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

But if you don't want to take the timing all apart to check you can verify with the screwdriver method (w/o taking anything apart).

 

[TSIkw]

Thanks guys...I'll be going back down to the shop to talk with them. I paid them way to much for this to not have them do it right. I printed up that part of the procedure to show the guy.

 

[TSIkw]

In case anyone is still looking at this post....we did a leak down test and cylinder 3 is shot. Only aroun 85 psi on compression test, went up to 100 when we added some oil down the cylinder. So now i am figuring out what to do. I think I'm going to buy a stage 1 shortblock from SBR and get some new valve springs and retainers, and new lifters for my head.