2G NDD tube front help

[jpmxrider489]

Im having a hard time figuring out the north/southbar setup and how it it supposed to be based on his kit. The last 3 pics are from his sources. If you buy his tube front end, the front mount is on the lower tube. If you buy his subframe, the mount is on the north/south bar. It seems as if the kits are not compatible to each other.

Anyone install his kits before?

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[jpmxrider489]

Any input from people that have done this before would be great.

 

[motomattx]

Looks like they are indeed not compatible to me too, have you reached out to him?

 

[jpmxrider489]

His help most of the time is "your fab guy should be able" He is really the only one selling a kit like this. Im assuming im going to have to build the mount off the bar. Im just trying to possibly learn and see how other people solved some of these unknown issues.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Thats NDD for you, people REALLY need to stop buying their products. bad service, lack of development and barely designed parts. If i made a kit i would offer base information at least

 

[jpmxrider489]

Thats NDD for you, people REALLY need to stop buying their products. bad service, lack of development and barely designed parts. If i made a kit i would offer base information at least

I found out about all the NDD stuff after purchase. However, I will say the only downside of the purchase is how long it took to get the items. I actually wasnt sure if I was ever going to see them. However, I was compensated extremly well for the inconvience.

However, he is the only one that offers this. I know there are people on this forum who have tubed there front. Im just looking for a few tips to avoid issues. He says to start with the front lower tube then the mount. If other people know of a easier method to the madness, that would be helpful.

Also, I have a feeling I need to order some small tubes to mount oil coolers,rad, and what not. Where is a good source to buy from? As well as the diameter and wall thickess reccomened to mount such things.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Those guys are clowns so of course their parts are incompatible and they didn't take that into account. Sorry I'm not able to help other than that. His response that your fab guy can fix it is effectively telling you they don't fit.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I found out about all the NDD stuff after purchase. However, I will say the only downside of the purchase is how long it took to get the items. I actually wasnt sure if I was ever going to see them. However, I was compensated extremly well for the inconvience.

However, he is the only one that offers this. I know there are people on this forum who have tubed there front. Im just looking for a few tips to avoid issues. He says to start with the front lower tube then the mount. If other people know of a easier method to the madness, that would be helpful.

Also, I have a feeling I need to order some small tubes to mount oil coolers,rad, and what not. Where is a good source to buy from? As well as the diameter and wall thickness reccomened to mount such things.

Well Josh never changes. He was True Street and ran off with a lot of money and then came back as another name. People know this and still give him money

Tubing a front end is tricky as not 1 fits all but a BASE kit is good enough. Some plates and some bent tube is all that's needed for a start but everyone's setup is different so will be a lot up to the fabricator depending on parts and extra tabs / mounts etc etc. I mocked up a jig for the upper portion but never did anything with it, a lot of people go different routes, some OEM like and most did not to suit their needs so I kind of put it on the back burner to do since its limiting and would still likely need adjusting for each chassis to be perfect plus some like tube and I used solid bar in this area so its a wide open book of how to here.

The basic design how you got yours currently is about right although I would of liked to see it bolt on/off for ease of working on it later or replaceable if you knock it vs welding fully on. More serviceable to. When I did mine the lower rad core support was first and then I added along the way for the bits along the way but the crossmember was the first piece to bolt on to it and back on the ground again. From there it's the upper portion for the headlights, after that I wormed eith the space I had for the cores and coolers and such. It's a time consuming process. For me it took about 2 days at work but I have every tool available here. 3rd day was welding it all once done. So give yourself about a week or so and take your time to see the vision or plans you want to see come from in, make sure you think 20 steps ahead of lines, placements and how you enclose everything also to make it better as a finished setup, just enclosing my system took me 2 days alone to do.

 

[jpmxrider489]

Tubing a front end is tricky as not 1 fits all but a BASE kit is good enough. Some plates and some bent tube is all that's needed for a start but everyone's setup is different so will be a lot up to the fabricator depending on parts and extra tabs / mounts etc etc. I mocked up a jig for the upper portion but never did anything with it, a lot of people go different routes, some OEM like and most did not to suit their needs so I kind of put it on the back burner to do since its limiting and would still likely need adjusting for each chassis to be perfect plus some like tube and I used solid bar in this area so its a wide open book of how to here.

The basic design how you got yours currently is about right although I would of liked to see it bolt on/off for ease of working on it later or replaceable if you knock it vs welding fully on. More serviceable to. When I did mine the lower rad core support was first and then I added along the way for the bits along the way but the crossmember was the first piece to bolt on to it and back on the ground again. From there it's the upper portion for the headlights, after that I wormed eith the space I had for the cores and coolers and such. It's a time consuming process. For me it took about 2 days at work but I have every tool available here. 3rd day was welding it all once done. So give yourself about a week or so and take your time to see the vision or plans you want to see come from in, make sure you think 20 steps ahead of lines, placements and how you enclose everything also to make it better as a finished setup, just enclosing my system took me 2 days alone to do.

I spoke with him on the phone today for a decent bit of time. He was saying pretty much what you did about it being a base kit. He said the front tube is meant to point down. I personally not a fan of that. But I think thats because I have the OEM geomety in my head. Since the kit doesnt have to go a certain way and I can tailor it to how I want. I was thinking about having the main tube come out more and use the smaller hoop on the inside basically be where the front tube is if pointed down. Then build the mount off the smaller hoop. Also the front mount is a heim joint with a bolt going through. There is no bushing. Is this a problem? Also, what is the correct method to make this bolt on and off? Are we welding nuts to the back or is there a correct way to do it?

Bobby, I was inspired a bit by how you have your oil cooler and rad setup in your build thread. Its very effiecient. I also found this car.

I have access to a welder and a decent amount of tools. But unforntunatly, I dont have access to a quility bender for tube. I plan on documenting most of this install as it goes on. Im pretty sure im the only one that has started to document the NDD tube front.

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I spoke with him on the phone today for a decent bit of time. He was saying pretty much what you did about it being a base kit. He said the front tube is meant to point down. I personally not a fan of that. But I think thats because I have the OEM geomety in my head. Since the kit doesnt have to go a certain way and I can tailor it to how I want. I was thinking about having the main tube come out more and use the smaller hoop on the inside basically be where the front tube is if pointed down. Then build the mount off the smaller hoop. Also the front mount is a heim joint with a bolt going through. There is no bushing. Is this a problem? Also, what is the correct method to make this bolt on and off? Are we welding nuts to the back or is there a correct way to do it?

I will take some MODIFYING to get it correct. I had my cross bar mount to the new tubes i made to bolt from underneath in the rails. i wanted it all removeable if i ever need to do something as part of my plan, abit tricky to work it out but its good and works well and plans came out nice. as for the rodend on the roll stop, its fine if you have the force going through the rodend not sideways, I also dont advise the angle of the pictue you found ( tony's blue car ) just remember the twist directions and always cosider this in any part you do, the angle he has that is not ideal and could upon twisting from the torque flex that lower bar and one day may crack the welding from being to fatigued over time.

Bobby, I was inspired a bit by how you have your oil cooler and rad setup in your build thread. Its very effiecient. I also found this car.

Thank you, i needed a compact setup and i still wish i got a slightly narrower core to angle the rad more forwards still but it works and works very well! air flows out and the fans kick on i can feel the hot air at the back of the roof line so does a good job, also keeps all temps in check being all enclosed into one which for me was keym the side holes i tried and just does not do as well for some reason? not sure why even with ducting...

I have access to a welder and a decent amount of tools. But unforntunatly, I dont have access to a quility bender for tube. I plan on documenting most of this install as it goes on. Im pretty sure im the only one that has started to document the NDD tube front.

With kits like this there is no one way suits all, everyone will differ and come in from a different point of view based upon their items to squeeze in.

 

[jpmxrider489]

You dont reccomend the angle of the front tube or front mount? I realize with the front tube pointing straight down, it frees up so much room in the corners around the marker lights and I can pretty much build as I want.

Are we welding nuts to the back of the plates to make this removable or is there a better option? I was getting ready to order some more tube to mount everything. Is there a general rule of thumb for the wall thickness and diameter. Like if item XYZ weighs 100LBS, it would need a certain size? I ordered some 3/4in and 5/8 at .058 but thougth that was small. So I was thinking to order 3/4 at .083 wall. But what would be the correct size if I wanted to follow rules?(not sure whos rule book).

 

[jpmxrider489]

Little update picture. But I have some questions about the front tube and front motor mount. I don't really like the north/south bar being above the front tube. Does that seem odd to yall? Since I was going to use a jack pad and tow hook on the north/south bar, that needs to be below? Is there any benefit or ease of repairs? Maybe something I haven't thought of.

Next you can see how close the cross brace is to the bottom of the trans. Is this a issue? I can't move it any lower based on how the north/south bar mounts.

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[jpmxrider489]

I been making a decent amount of progress in this. My next problem I'm having is with the mounting of the headlights and how to get the body lines.

Was curious what you guys thought about this and the best way to proceed.

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Whats the concern with running it above? Your not pulling weight from the cross bar. The engine mounts will be taking 99% of that stress and spreading it across the rest of the engine mounts. so bolting from above is not a problem.

The only issue from above is removal as you got to think about install and removal later on! Always think 3 steps ahead... Once welded, can you remove it again easily from above and dont it clean everything. When the crossmember is off generally the engine rocks forwards a smidge so am i going to run into that problem or not being able to man handle it back on/up as i wont have bolts to do the rest. The you think of the other end! So if you do the front up and engine mount can i get the rear mounted all ok?

You have to think of everything later NOW which is kinda tricky but its part of a fabricators job but we get paid to do that thinking side of it.

If the future install/removal is not going to cause issues then go above as it will be fine. Just make sure any jacking point is as flat as it can be to not slip on an angle of the tube

 

[Dsm_canadian_mike]

No one should buy anything from NDD.. rip offs