My old highschool car

[We're on Boost]

could you elaborate on that hose? I wasn’t aware it was hooked up wrong, is it a pain to correctly do it or is that also something I shouldn’t be worried about currently?

Yes, for the intro to that subject, go back to post #389 and read the paragraph where you'll see "50 - 60% throttle pulls" about half-way through the paragraph.

It's a little bit of a pain because I think the best way to do it in your case will be to weld a bung into one of the intercooler pipes. Trying to put it into the turbo would be harder to do with it in the car, and even if you took the turbo off, I wouldn't be too wild about having anybody welding on it or drilling and tapping it.

I say a bung because once you have an internally threaded bung in there (pipe threads) you can screw in any type of hose barb fitting or elbow or whatever you need for the hose to fit in the space available.

It could be in the lower pipes or the upper pipes. Mainly just need convenient hose routing from it to the wastegate actuator. Then later when you add a boost control solenoid, that first hose would go to the solenoid, like he shows in the pic in #389. And the second hose would go from the solenoid to the wastegate actuator.

 

[We're on Boost]

What are your intercooler pipes made of? Aluminum or steel or stainless steel?

 

[We're on Boost]

is that also something I shouldn’t be worried about currently?

Changing where the hose goes is something that can wait a while. It's good to start understanding it though.

 

[OhhShmit]

I am almost positive it’s Stainless Steel, And Dang brotha absolutely it sounds like a pain! I guess you could say I love being informed and educated!! You guys have been the best for help and support. So kinda of a update on the plan now, we are going to get the fuel pump and tomorrow I’ll do the file for ECMLink and get that bought so by the time the pump gets here we can throw everything in and be ready to tune with the new V3!!

 

[OhhShmit]

Here’s a picture

 

[OhhShmit]

Just updated to the lasted firmware I guess I was on one from 2 years ago ! Doing the request file now!

 

[OhhShmit]

But when connected it says my firmware version is still this? Now I’m confused.

 

[We're on Boost]

But when connected it says my firmware version is still this? Now I’m confused.

Yeah, to update the firmware you have to first get a firmware request file from your ecu, just like how you start the process for upgrade to Full V3. Once you get that file, you email it to them. It doesn't cost anything, that's the only difference.
Here's their page on how you do an ordinary firmware upgrade.

Read that page, I just noticed something on it that I forgot about. It says "You MUST download and install the latest ECMLink application first before you upgrade your firmware! If you try to ugprade your firmware with a version of the application that's incompatible with the new firmware, you may not be able to reconnect to your ECU after the upgrade is done!"

That's pretty scary. What they mean when they say "ECMLink application" is, they mean the software that you have installed on your laptop. So do that update first to your laptop, before trying any firmware changes. Or maybe you already have the latest software on your laptop since you just started with this recently. But anyway it's on the Downloads page. They give the latest version number as V3.46.226. It would be the file called Windows 64-bit, unless your laptop is a Mac or Linux.

I'm trying to remember right now if you actually need the driver they list in Drivers called Windows (installer app).
Oh I see it. It's just the driver for the cable. I suppose you have that driver installed already otherwise your cable wouldn't work probably.

And, here's a whole wiki page on how to do a firmware upgrade.

I bet when you bought this car you didn't know you'd be spending the rest of your life reading stuff, did you?

BTW I think the version number for the software and the firmware will be different numbers.

 

[OhhShmit]

Okay I just deleted and re installed everything the way you explained and to the latest 3.46.226, I didn’t do anything until you had responded because I was nervous and after reading if you don’t make sure your on the right firmware and update it can lock you out the ECU, I opted to wait . So now to clarify I can do a firmware request file and send it to them? Now could I also use that same file when it comes to upgrading to the Full V3 since it’s essentially the same steps almost?

 

[We're on Boost]

You don't need to do a regular firmware update. You don't need the latest firmware to do the Full V3 upgrade. You just need the latest software. Once you have the latest software installed on your laptop, then you can go directly to doing the Full V3 upgrade. And like you show in your screenshot there, you have the latest software now, 3.46.226.
So you are ready to do the upgrade to Full V3 now.

 

[OhhShmit]

So don’t even worry about doing the Firmware update then, Just worry about buying the V3 Full instead then do it? I’m on the latest download version yes but the Firmware Version is still from 2 years go as you seen in post #432 just didn’t know if that should be updated also before anything else.

 

[We're on Boost]

So don’t even worry about doing the Firmware update then

Right

Just worry about buying the V3 Full instead then do it? I’m on the latest download version yes but the Firmware Version is still from 2 years go as you seen in post #432 just didn’t know if that should be updated also before anything else.

Well, the upgrade to Full V3 is a firmware upgrade. You don't need to have the latest V3Lite firmware already installed before doing the upgrade to Full V3.
Like you noticed, the process is the same between doing a normal firmware update and an upgrade to Full V3. That's because they are both loading new firmware onto your ecu. The only difference in the process is that you pay for the upgrade to Full V3, whereas a normal firmware update is free.
So from where you are now, just do the Full V3 upgrade process. When that is done, then you will have Full V3 and it will be the latest Full V3 firmware that you will have installed on your ecu.

 

[OhhShmit]

Right



Well, the upgrade to Full V3 is a firmware upgrade. You don't need to have the latest V3Lite firmware already installed before doing the upgrade to Full V3.
Like you noticed, the process is the same between doing a normal firmware update and an upgrade to Full V3. That's because they are both loading new firmware onto your ecu. The only difference in the process is that you pay for the upgrade to Full V3, whereas a normal firmware update is free.
So from where you are now, just do the Full V3 upgrade process. When that is done, then you will have Full V3 and it will be the latest Full V3 firmware that you will have installed on your ecu.

My guy, Will do!

 

[OhhShmit]

Gary I have uploaded a log from the lady when she leaves work, Could you please look it over for me? Shes Complaining again about it being a struggle wanting to start in the morning and i can agree with her as it takes sometimes 6 or 7 bumps on the button for it to stay running. I should clarify it starts but immediately dies. This log is after she finally got it started, I will try and get a log of her in the morning trying to start it when it does it.

 

[OhhShmit]

Gary I have uploaded a log from the lady when she leaves work, Could you please look it over for me? Shes Complaining again about it being a struggle wanting to start in the morning and i can agree with her as it takes sometimes 6 or 7 bumps on the button for it to stay running. I should clarify it starts but immediately dies. This log is after she finally got it started, I will try and get a log of her in the morning trying to start it when it does it.

I should also clarify, This is only in the mornings when the car has set for over 10 hours or so. Rather then that it’s normally 1st bump and start and runs fine!

 

[We're on Boost]

I should also clarify, This is only in the mornings when the car has set for over 10 hours or so. Rather then that it’s normally 1st bump and start and runs fine!

Right. When you get Full V3 going, be sure to go into Captured Values to start logging CrankingFuelAdj and ISCPosition.
Your warm start log from Oct 8 looks pretty ok except the idle rpm at the end is pretty high. We need to see ISCPosition to know much about that.

 

[OhhShmit]

Gary, Here is a log from this morning after the wife left work. She said it only died once as you see then it started and ran fine.

 

[We're on Boost]

Gary, Here is a log from this morning after the wife left work. She said it only died once as you see then it started and ran fine.

Oh I see it now. KeyStart should go to 1 while you are cranking. But it doesn't. It just stays at 0 all the time.
So that means that your CrankingFuelAdjust isn't working.
When we can see CrankingFuelAdjust in the logs (with V3 Full) we will see that it is just 0 all the time, until KeyStart is fixed.

I had to fix my KeyStart a few years ago. What needed fixing was pretty easy. The wire that goes from your ignition switch to the starter solenoid has a branch off of it that goes to its own input on the ecu. Mine had been disconnected, by me, by accident, because I didn't know it was there when I put in my starter button.

Does your car use a starter button instead of Start with the key?

 

[OhhShmit]

Yes nick had installed a button start, sorry I should have clarified that.

 

[We're on Boost]

Ok, well good, because then it's not any parts that are bad. It's just that one wire.
I'll have to refresh my memory on the whole thing for a while. We will need to find the easiest place to get into that circuit.

I got into mine at the starter relay which is on the driver side under the dash. I had removed my starter relay anyway, to bypass it. So the socket for it was sitting there with all 4 ports to it open and ready to use for this, as I remember, it was just a matter of knowing which one to use. It'll probably take me a couple days to kind of re-cook all that stuff in my head and look some things up

 

[OhhShmit]

You’re absolutely fine boss no worries! Is there anything we can do to make it easier or more acceptable? I just don’t want this to become a issue with the car that cause something else to majorly happen

 

[We're on Boost]

You’re absolutely fine boss no worries! Is there anything we can do to make it easier or more acceptable? I just don’t want this to become a issue with the car that cause something else to majorly happen

Well, lean starts don't cause a problem for the engine, but they do put more wear and tear on your starter and the battery.

Here's what you could try though. There is a thing in direct access called CoolantTempFuelAdj. It will raise your fuel delivery by any percent you want up to a max of 50% at each of the temps shown in the table.
I think for your weather right now, you could raise 3 of the blobs - the ones at 19, 46, and 70 deg F.
Raise them all the way to 50%. Like in the pic I'll post below.
With the weather you have now, this should have an effect for about the first 40 to 50 seconds after the car actually starts. Then hopefully it will be warm enough to go into closed loop which will help, and it will also be warm enough to be way down on the CTFA line that goes from 70 to 95 degrees.
That's kind of a long time. Cranking fuel adjust only effects the fuel for about 15 seconds after it starts to run, and that is better.

When you richen for 40 seconds like this, it might run kind of rough for the last 20 seconds or so of it, if it is really too rich.
So you can twiddle with the 70 degree blob, lower it some, lower the 70 degree blob until it brings back too much of the original problem with cold start.
It's not good to do too much over-rich running because it washes oil off the cylinder walls. So try to use this temp adjust thing as minimally as you can, and then put the blobs back to their original setting right away when we get KeyStart working.

 

[OhhShmit]

Well, lean starts don't cause a problem for the engine, but they do put more wear and tear on your starter and the battery.

Here's what you could try though. There is a thing in direct access called CoolantTempFuelAdj. It will raise your fuel delivery by any percent you want up to a max of 50% at each of the temps shown in the table.
I think for your weather right now, you could raise 3 of the blobs - the ones at 19, 46, and 70 deg F.
Raise them all the way to 50%. Like in the pic I'll post below.
With the weather you have now, this should have an effect for about the first 40 to 50 seconds after the car actually starts. Then hopefully it will be warm enough to go into closed loop which will help, and it will also be warm enough to be way down on the CTFA line that goes from 70 to 95 degrees.
That's kind of a long time. Cranking fuel adjust only effects the fuel for about 15 seconds after it starts to run, and that is better.

When you richen for 40 seconds like this, it might run kind of rough for the last 20 seconds or so of it, if it is really too rich.
So you can twiddle with the 70 degree blob, lower it some, lower the 70 degree blob until it brings back too much of the original problem with cold start.
It's not good to do too much over-rich running because it washes oil off the cylinder walls. So try to use this temp adjust thing as minimally as you can, and then put the blobs back to their original setting right away when we get KeyStart working.

View attachment 776706

Okay absolutely! I’ll try it and only use it when needed! Like I said we shouldn’t have this problem to much longer, im buying the full V3 Monday and Thursday the pump will be here and I already have a spot at the shop saved to get everything changed over and adjusted once installed. I will need you to post again how to adjust that after installing them both so I don’t screw anything up

 

[We're on Boost]

Can you still start it with the key only? Or maybe, Key and pushing the clutch pedal in?
It might be that the key on Start position will still trigger the KeyStart thing. If it does, just start it with the key.

Another weird possibility is, maybe the key will still trigger KeyStart but not the starter. In that case you would turn the key to Start and push the starter button at the same time, and maybe push the clutch pedal in at the same time too.

If you log during trying those things, we will see if KeyStart changes to 1 during cranking, which is what you want. Then CrankingFuelAdj should work.

We'd still fix the actual problem of course, later.

I already have a spot at the shop saved to get everything changed over

This worries me. Do you need temporary use of a shop to put your fuel pump in? Changing the fuel pump for the first time can turn into a few days project, starting with detaching the hose. You kind of need to have the car in a place where it can sit for a few days while you work out one thing and the next thing and the thing after that, all the way through and not be in too much of a hurry.

One of the many things is, you probably don't have a new rubber gasket for where the lid goes onto the tank. Sometimes you can reuse the old one, but sometimes they are just too torn or whatever.

 

[OhhShmit]

Yes the shop I’m taking it to is actually a family member of mine. See I was thinking it would take some time also but he’s very reassuring we can knock it out in a day if I come in the morning. Worst comes to worst he said it can sit until we can get everything in but he’s very firm it won’t take long. And usually when starting the car we turn the key to accessory aka “On” and push in the clutch and start it. I do know I have tried to use the key to start it and it does nothing. You also can start the car without pressing the clutch in also I should state.