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My new setup, what do you think? 11 sec GST

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Nelsons91AWD said:
SORRY FOR NOT UPDATING UNTIL NOW

About 8 months ago one of my best friends PHIZZLE99GST got sent to Iraq and is risking his life everyday. I pray for ya and love ya man.

He has charged me with continuing the project with his car.
Which I gladly accept

Before he left he overheated his car because of that Huge FMIC, now there is also Oil Leaking out of somewhere unknown, I am thinking between the head and the block, but am unsure.

I in TN the car is in MI, but I am going to have it put on a Flatbed and transported to a great DSM shop in Wisconsin. That shop will be doing most of all the work on getting the car, getting it back up and running. I need to manage the budget, pick the parts, and call the shots.

PHIZZLE99GSTs goals remain the same, high 11s low 12s in the ¼ mile (with Racegas/Slicks) HIS CURRENT MODS ARE IN HIS PROFILE

His budget to work with for now is $3500

We don’t have to meet his goal with this, but we would like to Keep moving towards it as best we can. Your input would be appreciated here.:thumb:

HERE ARE MY THOUGHTS
I am thinking the Headgasket is Blown. So this is how I will break it down,

Cometic HG + ARP headstuds = $1200 installed
Koyo Radiator + Good slimline Fans = $500 installed
FP 2 Cams = $450 (maybe + $100 for install)
1G DSM TB = $50
Magnus Intake Manifold = $700 ( maybe + $100 for the install )
$ 3100.00
(i would have them do all this work at once when the Head is ripped off the block, which should save time and money)

Add a Dyno Tune Session
$200

Total: $3300.00
Click to expand...

And i wish him best luck overseas

and as far as the shop prices thats very high, you might as well have them put cams and cam gears in also for that price while the head is off for the hg.
Thats why I started doing stuff myself now after paying ppl to do stuff so much and not even getting good work half the time from greese monkey shops and tuners. It just gets too expensive to mod a car and have someone else do it... Thats half the money in modifications right there...

I say use your money in direction towards getting some slicks and then building the suspension up and tranny and getting LSD... That will be the best mods you can do at this point in getting better times....

(wish I could have parts rolling in this fast, i wouldve been done by now LOL.)
 
If he doesn't have LSD then I suggest an insert at the least. One REALLY helped me. They really do work. They still will give you the peg leg burn out but at a much higher throttle position and much more acceleration. I can use some of my 1st gear at 70% throttle.:rocks:

Nothing is like a KAAZ though. It is a drag LSD. Quaife is great too. Look into Karking LSDs they can be had new for 750 and they are quaife style.

nightspeed87 said:
I agree..
And Im going to have to look into this antilift and suspension linkage modification for my set up as well. Have you done a significant amount of weight reduction to your car, because it seemed to work for me taking out about 200 lbs helped...
Click to expand...

Stock weight minus spare. I have a 5 gallon tank of water/alky mix in the hatch thoughOMG . Weight reduction is my last resort. Along w/ a traction bar. Those will be done last. I'll do those when I've exhausted my resourses and their knowhow and my knowhow. I still need: stickies, lowering springs, perhaps a better LSD, there's a couple driveline tricks left. I want to stage things to know what works and what doesn't. There really needs to be a good FWD traction and launch control writeup. . . Hey us FWD guys need play too:(
 
dsm-onster said:
If he doesn't have LSD then I suggest an insert at the least. One REALLY helped me. They really do work. They still will give you the peg leg burn out but at a much higher throttle position and much more acceleration. I can use some of my 1st gear at 70% throttle.
Click to expand...
Here's a couple more tricks to get more traction on a fwd. Play with the tire pressure to get more grip from the wheel that's spinning. There's two steps to do this right. First and obvious, lower the pressure on the tire that's spinning. Second, raise the pressure on the opposite rear tire to help add weight to the spinning tire. It's not a huge difference but it helps.

You can also change the corner weight slightly even without coilovers. To add weight on the front right tire, for example, just rotate the rear drivers side spring about 1/4 turn. This works because the spring seat is angled, and by turning the spring you're raising it up slightly. Raising the rear drivers side spring height will add weight to the front passengers side tire.
Even if you have lsd it's better to have both front tires closer to equal weight distribution. It's even more important with an open diff or lsd insert.
 
pneumo said:
Here's a couple more tricks to get more traction on a fwd. Play with the tire pressure to get more grip from the wheel that's spinning. There's two steps to do this right. First and obvious, lower the pressure on the tire that's spinning. Second, raise the pressure on the opposite rear tire to help add weight to the spinning tire. It's not a huge difference but it helps.

You can also change the corner weight slightly even without coilovers. To add weight on the front right tire, for example, just rotate the rear drivers side spring about 1/4 turn. This works because the spring seat is angled, and by turning the spring you're raising it up slightly. Raising the rear drivers side spring height will add weight to the front passengers side tire.
Even if you have lsd it's better to have both front tires closer to equal weight distribution. It's even more important with an open diff or lsd insert.
Click to expand...

Thanks we really appreciate the advice, when the car gets built we will try that.

For an UPDATE:

BEYOND REDLINE the shop in GreenBay WI we are getting the quote from has taken OVER A WEEK to get back with me and everytime i call someone is too busy or i'm put on hold forever.

so I Have been looking for other great performance shops and found AMS, in Arlington Heights, IL yes it is a big drive. From Escanaba MI but... i am going to call them and see what they can do for me.

PHIZZLE99GST also told me that out buget has been increased from $3500 to $4500.
How can you guys see spending another $1000 to push this car even further towards the 11s??


I will keep ya'll updated when i get the quotes back.....
 
Those prices seem to be a bit hefty on parts, but looks good overall. Why buy cam gears they won't get you much more power out of the cams. I paid 400 for my fluidyne radiator and the KOYO is cheaper so you got raped on that.
 
wvturbo2 said:
Those prices seem to be a bit hefty on parts, but looks good overall. Why buy cam gears they won't get you much more power out of the cams. I paid 400 for my fluidyne radiator and the KOYO is cheaper so you got raped on that.
Click to expand...

I talked to them and i can buy my OWN parts and ship them to their shop. and they said they will install them.

Just doing some Simple searches i was able to Hack off $300 still using Brand NEW parts.

I had the same question about the cam gears and e-mailed that to them, i am awaiting a response.


On this quote the upgraded cooling system is $900 (Koyo +FAL)

I found a Koyo for ($344.00 shipped on E-bay and Fals on prostreetonline for $350.00) $206.00 saved right there.
Also on SLOWBOYRACING website they have a Single 14" slimline fan that Flows 1360 CFM for $90.00, that could save me a bunch of money....

hmmm, what do ya think?
 
Cam gears won't help much even if you have them fine tuned. Check extremepsi.com and Maperformance.com for cheap prices and fast shipping. I do alot of sitting at work so let me know if I can help you find something
 
wvturbo2 said:
They won't help much. Check extremepsi.com and Maperformance.com for cheap prices and fast shipping. I do alot of sitting at work so let me know if I can help you find something
Click to expand...

What wont help much????


Man everything on that list, if you can Find a better price its going to help.
(besides Labor/shop supplies ;) )

Phil and I would really appreciate the help as well man!

so far the best prices i found so far are,

Comp 101200 Cams = $459.00
4g63 MLS Headgasket = $ 62.00 shipped
KoyoRadiator= $344.00 Shipped
Fal Twin Fans= $350

And i am still unsure of the Magnus intake mani i know its great but $600.00 OMG

SBR has one for $550 right now..... ???
 
 
also $1200 for a h/g????? to get it done at lse perfomance is $400 about and the gastet and arps would only be $200 more.... I would look into doing this yourself, its not very hard
 
Look on Ebay for the Koyo, alot of guys have a best offer option. You shouldn't have too much trouble picking one up for $300 shipped. The FAL setup is expensive for our cars & to top it off it won't be a direct bolt on as they claim. I to need to upgrade my cooling system in the future & haven't yet descided if I want to spend the extra on the FAL setup or just get a couple SPAL fans & make up proper metal brackets to attach to the stock mounting points. Some use the through core plastic ties but why cause another source for a potential failure, do it right with brackets. With the SPALS your price would probably drop below $200.

As for the cams you can get the FP2's direct from FP for $430 & there may be other vendors that will offer them abit cheeper. Then there is also the BC 272's, if you can find a place that has them in stock. They can be had for $350 or even less.

Also what brand of spring & retainer kit is listed at $302? If that for single springs, that seems a good amount high as well. You can pick up a BC or Manley spring/retainer kit for $250 anywhere. Just saw extremepsi has the BC set listed for $215.

Like others have said, I'd probably pass on the cam gears unless your adding in a few hours dyno time to get them dialed in properly. Otherwise there not worth their cost. One other thing is what is the OEM Mitsu head set for $207?

Another area to save would be to switch to a JMF intake mani, to drop $150 off your cost.

For what else to do with that extra $1000, I'd recommend a meth injection kit. Its defently a great way to spend a couple hundred.
 
Look into the FAL-210's I bought mine for $215 with temp sensor and controller. I don't remember the website though. It was a couple years ago.
 
daren_p said:
Look on Ebay for the Koyo, alot of guys have a best offer option. You shouldn't have too much trouble picking one up for $300 shipped. The FAL setup is expensive for our cars & to top it off it won't be a direct bolt on as they claim. I to need to upgrade my cooling system in the future & haven't yet descided if I want to spend the extra on the FAL setup or just get a couple SPAL fans & make up proper metal brackets to attach to the stock mounting points. Some use the through core plastic ties but why cause another source for a potential failure, do it right with brackets. With the SPALS your price would probably drop below $200.

As for the cams you can get the FP2's direct from FP for $430 & there may be other vendors that will offer them abit cheeper. Then there is also the BC 272's, if you can find a place that has them in stock. They can be had for $350 or even less.

Also what brand of spring & retainer kit is listed at $302? If that for single springs, that seems a good amount high as well. You can pick up a BC or Manley spring/retainer kit for $250 anywhere. Just saw extremepsi has the BC set listed for $215.

Like others have said, I'd probably pass on the cam gears unless your adding in a few hours dyno time to get them dialed in properly. Otherwise there not worth their cost. One other thing is what is the OEM Mitsu head set for $207?

Another area to save would be to switch to a JMF intake mani, to drop $150 off your cost.

For what else to do with that extra $1000, I'd recommend a meth injection kit. Its defently a great way to spend a couple hundred.
Click to expand...

I think we are on the same page.
 
Hey all! Its been a while since updated but my buddy Nelsons91AWD has a good job updating for me. I appreciate it pal! I appreciate everyone’s support and info as well… Right now I am home in Michigan on leave. Ive been in San Antonio TX doing my therapy at Fort Sam Houston.

I was injured while I was over there on 26MAY2007 and lost both my legs above the knees and my left eye, also badly burn/broke my right arm which is recovering nicely. They told me I wouldn’t be able to drive my car again but I set that as one of my goals. If anyone has some sort of inexpensive adaptive equipment ideas please let me know.

Now as far as my car goes with the set up we had before I got deployed we pushed a tad over 300whp and I was still getting used to the launch. But this October as I was in texas doing my therapy I made some phone calls and had my car brought to a local shop near home. I got quite a different setup now (mod list updated today) and am trying to decide on a turbo that can push 400+whp on pump. My SCM 3431E/T3 exhaust housing made 411whp on race fuel @24psi. Im wondering what turbo can do that on pump. A couple suggestions we were given up are the GT3076R, and the GT3071R. Is there any other suggestions or does anyone have any experience with these turbos and hopefully at a reasonable price.

My goal is 400+whp on pump gas and still use it as an every other day driver. Also if I get the driving down I want to run 11s in the ¼ probably on race fuel. (which will be the biggest challenge)

My Current Mod List
PTE 57 Trim (stage 3 wheel) .82 Ar T3 Exhaust Housing , DNP t3 Manifold, Tial 44mm External Wastegate, Custom 3" Downpipe, Apexi 3" full exhaust, 3" custom intake, 3" K&N, Magnus Sheetmetal Intake Manifold, FMIC, 2.5" IC Piping, HKS ssqv BOV, Turbosmart boost controller, NGK BPR7ES Spark Plugs, beyond redline coil on plug ignition, 1g Fuel Rail, Buschur SX AFPR Kit, Walbro 255 fuel pump, 10 Guage fuel pump rewire, Precision 880cc Injectors, MAFT/3" GM MAS, Koyo Radaitor, 12" slimline fan, 180 degree thermostat, DSM LINK, 95 Eprom ECU, Defi Boost Gauge, Balance Shafts Removed, HKS 272 Cams, ARP Headstuds, Crower Springs and Retainers, Mitsu MLS Headgasket, Quaife LSD, ACT 2600 Clutch, Short Shifter, ADR/limited ricochet's gunmetal w/polished lip, 225/45/17's kumho 712's, Tokico adjustable shocks and lowering springs, Prothane Motor Mounts, carbon fiber hood

Thanks All!
 
What kind of adaptive equipment are you looking for? I got a system for the clutch taken care of, just getting the release right has been hard. ( started this project for a gal in MD that had her legs amputated and still wanted to drive her stang) I've got a solid and steady release, it's just keeping the throttle right while it's releasing, and troubles with the times when you need to give it some more clutch to avoid stalling. PM me if you need some info on how i do this, i can send pics of the parts and how to hook them up. As for brake control, there's plenty of kits on the market for that, but can be built cheaper than those places sell the stuff for. ( but home made isn't pass-able by the DOT )

Hell, michingan isn't that far from here. Maybe i can offer more help than i thought since you're a tad closer than i was thinking.
 
turboglenn said:
What kind of adaptive equipment are you looking for? I got a system for the clutch taken care of, just getting the release right has been hard. ( started this project for a gal in MD that had her legs amputated and still wanted to drive her stang) I've got a solid and steady release, it's just keeping the throttle right while it's releasing, and troubles with the times when you need to give it some more clutch to avoid stalling. PM me if you need some info on how i do this, i can send pics of the parts and how to hook them up. As for brake control, there's plenty of kits on the market for that, but can be built cheaper than those places sell the stuff for. ( but home made isn't pass-able by the DOT )

Hell, michingan isn't that far from here. Maybe i can offer more help than i thought since you're a tad closer than i was thinking.
Click to expand...

I would like some sort of hand break/throttle on stearing wheel and maybe a hand clutch on shifter... Im not sure of what is offered yet... But it has to be done factory for the government to cover it. But youre ideas may come in good use, thanks for the reply, we'll keep in contact.
 
Yea, just get in touch with me whenever. IT's all pneumatics adapted over from drag bikes, just slightly larger cylinders and a tad higher pressure to deal with the heavy clutch pressures the cars have. Then for the release there's a "bleeder valve" for taking off from lights, then there's a bypass for letting it all out at once between gear shifts r to launch hard. And for the main clutch operation is just a button on the steering wheel for depressing the clutch whenver you want or need to, this would be included for gear changes , taking off and stopping. If i knew some one with an electrical engineering background, i could probably get a circuit to distinguish between a gear change and coming to or taking off from a stop based on the speed sensor, so it would choose how fast the clutch is engaged. But i'm not smart enough to design that circuit on my own by any means.
 
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