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My new setup, what do you think? 11 sec GST

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PHIZZLE99GST

15+ Year Contributor
45
0
Apr 22, 2005
Lascassas, Tennessee
For my '99 GST

-what I want
PTE 680CC DSM Ball and Seat Injectors
[SCM-3431E (57 Trim with stage 3 turbine wheel)] or [SBR-G57]
XS Power Bar & Plate 24x12x3 ebay 3" inlet and outlet
Custom mandrel bent 3" piping
Logger and SAFC
GM MAF & Translator
-what I have
Ported 2G Exhaust manifold and O2 housing
Full 3" exhaust
Buschur FPR
HKS type-S BOV
Hallman Boost controller
Walbro 255lph

Soon to upgrade to dsmlink, lsd, coilovers, act2100 clutch, act flywheel, cometic head gaskets and arp head studs when I have the money (til then im going to run lower boost). Those are the 2 turbos im looking at, I prefer one that bolts on to stock 02 and manifold. Any insight on these 2 turbos would be helpful if i missed anything i'll need or have something i dont need please let me know. After a lot of practice at the track I hope to reach the 11s (with slicks and race gas).

What do you's think of my setup? :dsm:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
in my opinion it is likely u will push that 7 bolt to its edges provided u push the efficiency psi to those turbo's. def go with dsmlink and get a lm-1 wbo2 w/ rpm converter. i cant stress enuff how much a wbo2 is needed. maybe go externally gated that would b just an option. and DO NOT get a 12 inch tall fmic. would either get a 9-10 tall one of ebay. or get the slowboy kit. the final thing would be to make sure u have cams. i would do a 272 or fp2 combo. SWAP TO A 6 BOLT, GET YOUR 2G HEAD SENT OFF AND DONE UP, and then u are in business for a solid efficient motor, that your not biting your nails everytime you hit the gas.
 
Wow thats gonna be a mean setup

And i second the HKS 272/272 (i cant believe you forgot that noob) J/K J/K OMG


How much boost are you planning on running?
i think you will be fine on the 7 bolt if you dont go to to crazy.

(just save some money in the oh shit fund just in case)
 
I plan on runnin 17-18psi after the fmic, turbo, injectors, Logger and SAFC, GM MAF & Translator are in place, then once i get everything else i may push 20-22psi b4 i start the internal mods... If i had the money for a 6 bolt swap id go for it, but after this motor goes im lookin to a 2.3 stroker anyway-HA-thats if i have the money by that time, after all i just paid off my car the other day :) with that said- my wallet is runnin on empty...

-thanx for the replies guys-keep em coming...
 
i dont think your gonna run 11's, ide say with that setup at 17-18psi, im guessing low 13's, ive seen 1G's with more crap then that, plus some internals that only run 12's
 
Spoolio said:
i dont think your gonna run 11's, ide say with that setup at 17-18psi, im guessing low 13's, ive seen 1G's with more crap then that, plus some internals that only run 12's


He knows he isnt gonna run 11s right off the bat he said that was his Goal.

My goal is 12s but i didnt run it when i first went to the track with the mods i had then.

he is talking about 17-18 PSI on the street on pump gas, with a stock block.


Once he puts ARP hardware + HG + Race Gas he will be able to raise the boost quite a bit more.

But enough to run 11s, we will see. :rocks:


Ohh yea you might wanna look at an Intake Manifold , Magnus is a great one :)
 
11's on FWD is a difficult task. Thats gonna need some good mods to deliver that power to the wheels without having them slip. I have a FWD also and i would love to be in the 12's on day. It's very possible with a lot of work and the right parts.
 
Spoolio said:
i dont think your gonna run 11's, ide say with that setup at 17-18psi, im guessing low 13's, ive seen 1G's with more crap then that, plus some internals that only run 12's

PO of my car took it down the 1320 in 13.5. FWD, w/ stock 14b, stock fuel, stock sidemount, 2.5" exhaust, and street tires.

It is entirely possible for that setup to shave 1.5 seconds off his quarter mile time, if he is a good driver.

PHIZZLE99GST, suspension mods are going to yield you the greatest track time gains of all. The coilovers work good but I'd look into a good set of shocks. This will contribute to antilift, a dire neccesity for us FWD guys. Also there are some other suspension tweeks that are pretty much free or really cheap that will assist you. Negating the effects of weight transfer is very difficult but there are tricks to maintaning a fat, consistant contact patch. You'll have to look this stuff up, but it's there amidst the chatter.

If you get dsmlink, don't use the NLTS, unless you want to impress people on the interstate with a 55 mph burnout:thumb: . . . been there done that:D .
 
92DSMErdrick said:
11's on FWD is a difficult task. Thats gonna need some good mods to deliver that power to the wheels without having them slip. I have a FWD also and i would love to be in the 12's on day. It's very possible with a lot of work and the right parts.


Did you miss the part where he said LSD & slicks :thumb:

If you get dsmlink, don't use the NLTS, unless you want to impress people on the interstate with a 55 mph burnout . . . been there done that .

:D Always wanted to try the NLTS but have been to scared, maybe I'll have to give that a try this summer :cool:

I have the Tokico Illuminas & while they may not be the best or most expensive shock out their, I think there great and would recommend them 100%. They have a nice range of adjustment.
 
dsm-onster said:
If you get dsmlink, don't use the NLTS, unless you want to impress people on the interstate with a 55 mph burnout:thumb: . . . been there done that:D .

Damn Maybe you should get NLTS

Thatr would be somthing to see ;)
:rocks:
 
daren_p said:
:D Always wanted to try the NLTS but have been to scared, maybe I'll have to give that a try this summer :cool:
It's a great way to ruin an old pair of firestone firehawks. That's for sure:thumb:

I have the Tokico Illuminas & while they may not be the best or most expensive shock out their, I think there great and would recommend them 100%. They have a nice range of adjustment.[/QUOTE]

About these. I am looking for some shocks [See above posts about no traction]. With them adjusted all the way down, do they keep you from lifting in the front much? How have they helped with your traction?
 
i to am FWD and also want to run in the 11's. We will need some good power to get there but it can be done with the right trap speeds, I had the precision turbo you are looking at and it is okay turbo, made 350 pump 429 race stock 7 bolt, that was then though, now it is a built 6 bolt so good luck on your mission.
 
Spoolio said:
i dont think your gonna run 11's, ide say with that setup at 17-18psi, im guessing low 13's, ive seen 1G's with more crap then that, plus some internals that only run 12's
I bet I could run a 30 second quarter mile with my 1g, that doesn't mean anything though, does it? running a time SLOWER than what your car is capable of isn't hard to do. Driver's skill is something that determines how fast your times will be as well as power.
 
LRS95TSI said:
in my opinion it is likely u will push that 7 bolt to its edges provided u push the efficiency psi to those turbo's. def go with dsmlink and get a lm-1 wbo2 w/ rpm converter. i cant stress enuff how much a wbo2 is needed. maybe go externally gated that would b just an option. and DO NOT get a 12 inch tall fmic. would either get a 9-10 tall one of ebay. or get the slowboy kit. the final thing would be to make sure u have cams. i would do a 272 or fp2 combo. SWAP TO A 6 BOLT, GET YOUR 2G HEAD SENT OFF AND DONE UP, and then u are in business for a solid efficient motor, that your not biting your nails everytime you hit the gas.

On a 2g with bolt on turbo, he won't be making enough power to worry about the bottom end untill he gets a SMIM with cams AND tunes on race gas. My older set up was very similar and made 400whp at 28 psi and c16. That was all the normal bolt ons, cams, dsmlink, FMIC, and a SCM61. The 2g head and PTE bolt on housing will be a restriction there. However, 400whp is about what is needed to run into the 11s with slicks on a fwd, so that set up will probably fit the bill nicely here.

As for the head, don't bother with a 2g unit. The stock 1g head is a proven 20hp over a stock 2g head. If you want to get porting done, just know that Shep runs a 1g head :thumb:
 
tstkl said:
I bet I could run a 30 second quarter mile with my 1g, that doesn't mean anything though, does it? running a time SLOWER than what your car is capable of isn't hard to do. Driver's skill is something that determines how fast your times will be as well as power.


Well said :thumb:

Anyway, any updates Phil?

Have you purchased or decided on the turbo your going to get?
 
Thanks for the responses guys, theyve been helpful... Well i went ahead and ordered the scm-3431E 57 Trim from SB today-i had the divider cut because its internally gated (for now), as well as an fmic core 24x11x3, front strut upper tower bar, also last week i bought some 880cc injectors.

Now im lookin for used: 95 Eprom ECU, act2100 clutch-both in great shape, motor mounts, slicks, and tokico shocks/spings...
 
I know this is off topic, but I noticed you were from Escanaba. I'm up in Houghton at MTU. Where do you drag at? If I am up for the summer I would like to go, but i don't know where I could find a strip.
 
THUMPER, whats up dude? Yea, we race a WIR in Kaukauna, and actually this June 3rd and 4th there is a big show there called DropFest ( www.dropfest.com ) and we went last year and had a great time, if you wanna go with us this year let me know... aight man ttyl...
 
I would say probably go with smaller I/C piping. 3 inch is pretty big. Thats usually for the guys making upwards of 600-700 horsepower. Plus you would have to get a bigger throttlebody and probably manifold too, you don't want 75mm piping going into a 52 or 60 mm throttlebody. I'm not sure you can hog out a 2g manifold to accept a 75mm throttlebody. 2.5 is the choice for people running your setup. Just a thought.
 
bigdogg2834 said:
I would say probably go with smaller I/C piping. 3 inch is pretty big. Thats usually for the guys making upwards of 600-700 horsepower. Plus you would have to get a bigger throttlebody and probably manifold too, you don't want 75mm piping going into a 52 or 60 mm throttlebody. I'm not sure you can hog out a 2g manifold to accept a 75mm throttlebody. 2.5 is the choice for people running your setup. Just a thought.

The core itself is 3 inches thick, but the actual inlet and outlet for the piping is 2 1/2 inches :thumb: :dsm:
 
PHIZZLE99GST said:
The core itself is 3 inches thick, but the actual inlet and outlet for the piping is 2 1/2 inches :thumb: :dsm:

Cool, I just saw 3 inch mandrel bent piping next to the type of intercooler you were planning on running and thought that was for the intercooler. My bad.:thumb:
 
What I already have done:
OEM Carbon Fiber Hood--3” Apexi Downpipe--3” Apexi N1 Exhaust-Buschur SX AFPR--Hallman Boost Controller--Magnecore 8.5mm Plug Wires--NGK BPR7ES Performance Spark Plugs--Balanced Shaft Removed--Timing Belt/Water Pump changed--HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve--1G Fuel Rail--PTE 880cc Fuel Injectors--Short Shift Kit--Greddy Shift Knob--2 Guage Pod--Defi Boost Guage-Ricochet 17” Gun Metal Rims--Kuhmo Supra Tires

What I have ready to go in:
FWD Motor Mounts--Turbo w/install kit-Ported o2 Housing--Ported Exhuast Manifold-Manifold Heat Shield--Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump--EPROM ECU--MAF Translator--FMIC 30x11x3--Front Strut Tower Bar

What is currently on the way:
2.5” Black FMIC Piping w/silicon couplers--MAS 2.5”-3” Silicon Couplers (2)--3”GM MAS-3”Cold Air Intake Filter--2.5” HKS SSQV Aluminum Pipe Flange

What I'm about to order:
Tokico FWD Adjustable Shocks & Springs--ACT 2100 Clutch kit--Quaife FWD Limited Slip Differential--Custom 12”x2” DSM Cooling Fan (2)--Slicks

I begin work early this week, my friend just finished his car up so as soon as i get my car towed into my buddies garage its on!!! I'm pretty pumped, we got these WRXs and SRT4s already talkin smack :sneaky: so in a month or so we are gonna shut them up!

I ordered my turbo from slowboy and they didnt cut the divider like i had asked, so i did it myself...
 

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