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Lets talk Ebay FMIC. Especially if you have one.

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chicagoavenger

15+ Year Contributor
981
13
Aug 17, 2004
Rio rancho, New_Mexico
I have read a couple of threads on ebay intercoolers but just wondering which ones out there that are actually good? Allot of them have something that goes like this

"Good for up to 500bhp(I have seen from 350-600). all our intercooler has been tested to withstand more then 80psi pressure and it has very small pressure drop across the end tanks, at 15psi inlet the out let has 14.8psi that means it has only 0.2 psi pressure drop ,compare to many other intercoolers it is an excellent figure (some intercooler has 1-2psi pressure drop) also at the same condition, the temperature has drop from 120 degree to 28 degree ( and it is an excellent figure for efficiency"

Is the above statement just a bunch of bs or true? Has anyone tried the Megan racing FMIC? I think it's crazy to spend 700+ on a core and piping. I really don't care about name brands I just want it to work. Kinda like a Dave Brode part or Megan Racing or Johnny Racecar FMIC all cheap but effective with great quality. Here are just a couple of FMIC I'm talking about that look good but do they perform and will they last? Please chime in if you have a ebay FMIC or had one especially if it worked or did not work well for you. thanks

Megan FMIC

No name brand but has the standard psi and efficiency spill

Street Imports FMIC

XOXO Core but has good feedback on the core
 
Without having to reread the previous 42 pages... That flange looks like its for a 1G bov, what am I supposed to do for my RS? And where is this group buy, I need one of these things. Someone up there said there was still lots of time.
 
blcknspo0ln said:
Judging by your 116 mph trap speed, I'd say you're definitely not a n00b :D btw, I was referring to bignbumpin with his 1 post in 3 years OMG


Ah ok .....I miss understood I miss my 116mph Traps thats the reason I had to buy me another GS-T

This time I hope to trap more then 116mph on a completly stock motor :thumb:
 
Is the deal still running? I just read this thread today even though it started long ago. Just got in the market for my FMIC.

I figured how I'd have to contact SSautochrome, but I'd like to know frist if it's still possible to get it for 295 shipped...
 
MyBeatGSX said:
Without having to reread the previous 42 pages... That flange looks like its for a 1G bov, what am I supposed to do for my RS? And where is this group buy, I need one of these things. Someone up there said there was still lots of time.

OMG please new buyers READ THE WHOLE THREAD. We all did so what makes you so special? you ask questions to save you time but you don't even say please :notgood: .
Enough with rant, to answer your question the bov flange is for a 1g and you can still use your greddy RS bov, click on link and READ it. http://herpetology.com/dsm/bov.html

Yes, if someone recently bought one then the group buy should still be available.. again the thread explains everything, email SSautochrome and ask em if the group buy is still in effect and if they respond with a yes, then you proceed and purchase one. Simple.

QCV8eater, not to be a jerk but most of the people here have already purchase the FMIC so how should we know if the group buy is still available? unless you want us to email them and ask if the group buy is still available and come back to tell you? ARGGGHHH sorry. Email them and ask em, you already know their email so it doesn't hurt to ask. They won't bite and if they respond with a yes then purchase one. Also ask em if they ship to canada before you purchase the FMIC
 
Ok. Well I finally got the 6 bolt done......finally got the transmission rebuilt (thanks to Wes Hess)....

Is anyone else having overheating problems?

I wanted to keep my AC, but this is rediculous and I am ready to do what I need to do, to get decent coolant temps. Driving around baby'ing the car, the temps barely come up.......touch boost and the temp comes up to 215, turn on the AC (so the other fan kicks on) and it will hold 215-220 until I touch positive boost again then it goes up to 230-240.

I can not cruise 60-70 mph watching the temp needle pointing up.:notgood:

At this point I am about f'ing sick of this car, I just want it to run good, and not have one little problem that leads to a world of problems.....AGAIN.

Remove the AC condenser?
Cut more material from my bumper cover?
Water Wetter and all of the above?

In the summer here, it gets over 100 for 30-60 days of the year. The rest of the time our average is in the 70's. Matter of fact we got -zero- snow precipitation this last winter.....not even 1/4".

So what should I do?
 
gsxtacy said:
Ok. Well I finally got the 6 bolt done......finally got the transmission rebuilt (thanks to Wes Hess)....

Is anyone else having overheating problems?

I wanted to keep my AC, but this is rediculous and I am ready to do what I need to do, to get decent coolant temps. Driving around baby'ing the car, the temps barely come up.......touch boost and the temp comes up to 215, turn on the AC (so the other fan kicks on) and it will hold 215-220 until I touch positive boost again then it goes up to 230-240.

I can not cruise 60-70 mph watching the temp needle pointing up.:notgood:

At this point I am about f'ing sick of this car, I just want it to run good, and not have one little problem that leads to a world of problems.....AGAIN.

Remove the AC condenser?
Cut more material from my bumper cover?
Water Wetter and all of the above?

In the summer here, it gets over 100 for 30-60 days of the year. The rest of the time our average is in the 70's. Matter of fact we got -zero- snow precipitation this last winter.....not even 1/4".

So what should I do?

Are you still using stock fans?
I had 2 14" slim line fans and water wetter and have never over heated and I still have the AC on my car maybe time for you to custom fab somthing up to get the extra air you need to your radiator

I am just screwing around saying this but put a Intercooler sprayer on your radiator (LOL) I am just kidding
 
Ok ok calm down a bit...

Reason why i asked, is because i've already asked SSACC and pmed my98gst and I haven't got a single answer. So where else than here should I ask publicly? ;)

So yeah, getting an answer would be cool. Otherwise I'll start trying to catch one on ebay...
 
gsxtacy said:
Ok. Well I finally got the 6 bolt done......finally got the transmission rebuilt (thanks to Wes Hess)....

Is anyone else having overheating problems?

I wanted to keep my AC, but this is rediculous and I am ready to do what I need to do, to get decent coolant temps. Driving around baby'ing the car, the temps barely come up.......touch boost and the temp comes up to 215, turn on the AC (so the other fan kicks on) and it will hold 215-220 until I touch positive boost again then it goes up to 230-240.

I can not cruise 60-70 mph watching the temp needle pointing up.:notgood:

At this point I am about f'ing sick of this car, I just want it to run good, and not have one little problem that leads to a world of problems.....AGAIN.

Remove the AC condenser?
Cut more material from my bumper cover?
Water Wetter and all of the above?

In the summer here, it gets over 100 for 30-60 days of the year. The rest of the time our average is in the 70's. Matter of fact we got -zero- snow precipitation this last winter.....not even 1/4".

So what should I do?

Heres what you need to do. If you have not cut the black piece on the front bumper do it now as it will give you more flow. Theres no need to take off the a/c condensor. You will have to get a 12'' slim line fan that flows more than 1,000cfm. You can do 2 fans doesn't matter either side by side or one in front of the a/c condenser(10'' slim) pushing or both in front of the radiator pulling. Have it so the fan is on the whole time i wouldn't know how to do this without dsmlink but there is a way. You can switch to water wetter and distilled water as well. Doing those things will greatly reduce your temps. Just make sure the fan flows more than 1,000cfm and you will be fine. I have a 12'' that only flows 880cfm and after i switched to the bigger fmic i had over heating problems so i got a new 12'' which flows 1,500cfm LOL. Kinda overkill but it will work. Good luck.
 
I removed the condensor and the compressor belt this afternoon and removing it "solved" the issue completely.

I drove it for a good 20 minutes in town with stop and go, then took it out and got on the highway and cruised 65 mph, the tempature gauge didn't budge from straight across.

Oh well I knew sooner or later the AC would be removed.
 
My borther in law has this kit, and he has no overheating at all. he has a 95, so he cut the bumper up a couple of inches, so he would have more flow. He has a stock driver side fan(ac fan), and a little 10" 600cfm fan on the passenger side. They both come on at the same time. He runs the ac in 100 degree temps with no problems.
If you are overheating, make sure your radiator is not partially clogged, and make sure all of your cooling system is good. Make sure you don't have a blown head gasket.
 
gsxtacy said:
I removed the condensor and the compressor belt this afternoon and removing it "solved" the issue completely.

I drove it for a good 20 minutes in town with stop and go, then took it out and got on the highway and cruised 65 mph, the tempature gauge didn't budge from straight across.

Oh well I knew sooner or later the AC would be removed.


Glad you solved the problem, overheating sucks!! :talon:
 
talondsp1 said:
Glad you solved the problem, overheating sucks!! :talon:


Next time before you go as drastic as taking out your ac, change your radiator fluid, I use autozone shit and I run AC, power steering line, everything, and I have sat in 1hour bumper to bumper traffic, 2 hour highways at 60 with lots of playing around, and I am completely stock in cooling except one of the fans is removed. However, I will be changing out radiator and go to slimline fans along with an external oil cooler soon enough.
 
GreddyGst said:
OMG please new buyers READ THE WHOLE THREAD. We all did so what makes you so special? you ask questions to save you time but you don't even say please :notgood: .
Enough with rant, to answer your question the bov flange is for a 1g and you can still use your greddy RS bov, click on link and READ it. http://herpetology.com/dsm/bov.html

Yes, if someone recently bought one then the group buy should still be available.. again the thread explains everything, email SSautochrome and ask em if the group buy is still in effect and if they respond with a yes, then you proceed and purchase one. Simple.

QCV8eater, not to be a jerk but most of the people here have already purchase the FMIC so how should we know if the group buy is still available? unless you want us to email them and ask if the group buy is still available and come back to tell you? ARGGGHHH sorry. Email them and ask em, you already know their email so it doesn't hurt to ask. They won't bite and if they respond with a yes then purchase one. Also ask em if they ship to canada before you purchase the FMIC

There shouldn't be any argument here. GreddyGst is correct. This whole thread is a plethora of information regarding build quality, shipment time, installation, problems, experiences, etc. There is no need for anyone to jump on here and ask a question that has been answered a DOZEN times in the SAME thread. I can't count how many times I've had to answer a question that was answered not 2 pages earlier.

/vent
 
D_Eclipse9916 said:
Next time before you go as drastic as taking out your ac, change your radiator fluid, I use autozone shit and I run AC, power steering line, everything, and I have sat in 1hour bumper to bumper traffic, 2 hour highways at 60 with lots of playing around, and I am completely stock in cooling except one of the fans is removed. However, I will be changing out radiator and go to slimline fans along with an external oil cooler soon enough.

With this FMIC, water cooled turbo, barely hacked bumper cover, stock radiator + 2 12" slimlines rewired, prestone coolant (70/30), and water wetter. I sit at 198* all the time. Sometimes it will go to 210 after some really hard driving, but I just switch on the fans (rewired) and she settles down within a minute of driving.

Keep in mind guys, Even though the needle may not move, your car could still be at 206*+ in water temps and for every 2* of coolant temp you lose 1* of timing.
 
Alright. For future reference, I've been able to get the groupbuy deal on may 22nd, but Deedee from SSAC wouldn't make it shipped to canada. So i got it for $325USD shipped, which is still good in my book!

Let's see how long customs will hold that package...
 
blcknspo0ln said:
With this FMIC, water cooled turbo, barely hacked bumper cover, stock radiator + 2 12" slimlines rewired, prestone coolant (70/30), and water wetter. I sit at 198* all the time. Sometimes it will go to 210 after some really hard driving, but I just switch on the fans (rewired) and she settles down within a minute of driving.

Keep in mind guys, Even though the needle may not move, your car could still be at 206*+ in water temps and for every 2* of coolant temp you lose 1* of timing.


Ive got dsmlink, I dont think I have a problem using the stock gauges.
 
QCV8eater said:
Alright. For future reference, I've been able to get the groupbuy deal on may 22nd, but Deedee from SSAC wouldn't make it shipped to canada. So i got it for $325USD shipped, which is still good in my book!

Let's see how long customs will hold that package...

Damn, Thank god I live near the border because Im going to pick it up. For an extra $30 USD it's not bad but it will take me around $12 CND of gas to get there and back in the Hyundai. Not to mention no hold up with customs. :thumb:

Plus these babies are made in the USA I believe so there will be no duties because of NAFTA. All I have to pay is taxes.:thumb:
 
paper_clip_boy said:
Damn, Thank god I live near the border because Im going to pick it up. For an extra $30 USD it's not bad but it will take me around $12 CND of gas to get there and back in the Hyundai. Not to mention no hold up with customs. :thumb:

Plus these babies are made in the USA I believe so there will be no duties because of NAFTA. All I have to pay is taxes.:thumb:

Yeah, no way they are made in the US.
 
paper_clip_boy said:
It would actually be interesting to find out and see if they are made in USA, Mexico, or Canada. If they are than that means no duties because of NAFTA and CAFTA.
The only part of these sets that are remotely North American sourced would be the postage on the box.

The materials alone (core, endtanks, mandrel bends, couplers, TB Elbow..etc) would exceed $299 if sourced in N.A. And that would not include welding/fabrication costs.
 
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