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Kiggly Shifter Mod

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Have any of you had any expierience with the brake handles? Not sure what they are called, they look like a big e-brake, a friend of mines uses one in his 9.40 car, says it's the greatest thing since sliced bread. He took me for a ride and launched it and it never moved. It was amazing.
 
Have any of you had any expierience with the brake handles? Not sure what they are called, they look like a big e-brake, a friend of mines uses one in his 9.40 car, says it's the greatest thing since sliced bread. He took me for a ride and launched it and it never moved. It was amazing.

That is a hydraulic handbrake.
 
A couple questions for those who have done this. What is the small plug? 4th gear requires a switch, can you use the stock OD switch for this? I don't see why you couldn't. Secondly if you leave the button on I would assume it will skip 3rd all together and go straight to 4th, is this an accurate assumption? I just want it to have a stock appearing interior, I like the way it looks and don't want too much extra crap. I was very reluctant to put pillar gauges in it but kind of ran out of options.
 
I mounted a switch right beside the eco/power button. It pushed through, and it flush. Very small black switch its not even noticable.

Im having a problem now though it seems I have no 3rd gear, but have 1-2 od, and every other gear. Any suggestions?
 
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Hmm I'm curious if you can take that roadsurge box and wire the up shift and down shift buttons to work with a tiptronic shifter. Have like a micro switch from a nos kit rigged up on the shifter so when you slide the shifter over back into drive it triggers the switch providing power to the TCU and then the TCU takes over?
 
that sounds like a pretty awesome idea, involved but probably do-able.
 
Hmm I'm curious if you can take that roadsurge box and wire the up shift and down shift buttons to work with a tiptronic shifter. Have like a micro switch from a nos kit rigged up on the shifter so when you slide the shifter over back into drive it triggers the switch providing power to the TCU and then the TCU takes over?


wonder where you got that idea from? ;)

God help you if you bump it into roadsurge mode at 70mph OMG

roadsurge defaults to 1st gear. not a great idea. and still knocks your teeth out on the 2-1 downshift while moving.

I love my tiptronic shifter but doing it over again I'd have done a ratchet for smoother downshifts. I just keep the tiptronic because I like how it looks and it's cool for being unique.
 
wonder where you got that idea from? ;)

God help you if you bump it into roadsurge mode at 70mph OMG

roadsurge defaults to 1st gear. not a great idea. and still knocks your teeth out on the 2-1 downshift while moving.

I love my tiptronic shifter but doing it over again I'd have done a ratchet for smoother downshifts. I just keep the tiptronic because I like how it looks and it's cool for being unique.
Okay, rip your set up out and give it to me so you can do it over with a rachet shifter :D
 
Do you have any specific questions? The wiring is very straightforward if you follow Kiggly's picture.
 
The solenoid side of the wiring is exactly the same, and I highly suspect that the wire colors coming off the shifter are the same. If so then the wiring for a 2g is exactly the same.

The only thing that you would have to do differently with a 2g is make a provision for torque converter lockup which is something that you should consider skipping unless you create a provision for it to only be able to lock up during OD and you fully understand what it means for the longevity of your torque converter to have it locked up during inappropriate times. All it would require in basic form is a switch for the OD solenoid (hint it is the wire on the solenoid harness that 1gs don't have) and preferably would be set up so that this switch could only activate while in OD. If you're unconcerned about TC lockup then just leave that wire unconnected. Also just because you're in OD doesn't mean you are safe to have lockup on. Every time you tried to accelerate in any vigorous manner you would want it shut off which would really just be a real PITA so leave it off unless you really know what you're doing.
 
Do you have any specific questions? The wiring is very straightforward if you follow Kiggly's picture.

I was hoping for some neanderthal like wiring diagrams specific to the 2g trans. I would like to use a ratchet shifter, (didn't really have my eye on a certain one at this point) to control the shifts manually, with full line pressure. I mainly deal with 1g 5 speed cars, and being so, 99% of my knowledge pertains to that specific setup. I recently purchased a 2g 5 speed shell, and want to swap to an auto setup. I have an EPROM TCU, but would rather have full manual shifting with the auto trans. I have read into the Road Surge shift box, but am not interested in push bottom shifting. The car is intended to be a track only car, with occasional street cruises to local car shows, (full line pressure and no TC lockup are ok with me), as it might see 100 or so actual miles that aren't "race only" miles. Sorry, I'm a noob when it comes to auto transmission stuff. :ohdamn:
 
I did exactly what you're trying to do. You basically locate the two plug harnesses--the big connector comes off the shift selector "nodule", and the smaller connector is more generic looking so I recommend matching the wire colors to find it.

Personally I did not cut off the larger connector--I only snipped the three wires I needed. From there I soldered the diodes in the pattern shown, staggering them so I didn't have a fat clump. In case you've never worked with electronics, you MUST RUN THE DIODES IN THE DIRECTION SHOWN (diodes work by only allowing voltage in one direction). Radio Shack and similar stores will sell them (3A Barrel Diodes - RadioShack.com)

For the OD switch, I bought a SPST (single pole, single throw) switch like this one: SPST Micromini Toggle Switch - RadioShack.com It is rated for 3A@125V, but I'm not sure what the minimum requirement is. They have a low profile nut that screws over the threaded portion, so you just drill a hole somewhere and attach the switch.

Then from there you just merge the wires together as shown, and solder them to the yellow and orange wires from the smaller connector.

I ran it with this shifter: B&M 81120 - B&M Stealth Pro Ratchet Shifters - Overview - SummitRacing.com and it works really well. It's installed inside the stock manual shift boot, although I had to cut mine a little to allow for the reverse/neutral lock-out lever to travel far enough.

I've been meaning to do a writeup on this whole process, but I haven't had a lot of free time lately..
 
I mounted a switch right beside the eco/power button. It pushed through, and it flush. Very small black switch its not even noticable.

Im having a problem now though it seems I have no 3rd gear, but have 1-2 od, and every other gear. Any suggestions?

I found the exact same thing in my 1gb (factory AT, AWD) when I originally tried this mod... I was able to get 3rd to work with NO solenoids being active, so I adjusted the wiring accordingly. I also incorperated the reverse light wiring while I was in there... PM me for the details
 
How do you actually install a ratchet shifter in relation to the kiggly mod? I'm auto swapping my car without the tcu but keeping the 5spd body harness
 
How do you actually install a ratchet shifter in relation to the kiggly mod? I'm auto swapping my car without the tcu but keeping the 5spd body harness

I know this is an old thread but I'm looking to do the exact same thing. Any help?
 
It's as easy as it sounds. Mod the wires at the shifter on the transmission like you normally would, and modify the ratchet shifter's included cable as necessary so it fits in place of the OEM one. The ratchet shifter doesn't do anything to the transmission, it just bolts in place of the stock one. The ratchet function is all in the shifter.
 
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