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Kiggly Shifter Mod

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Mike Marnik

15+ Year Contributor
349
6
Mar 5, 2004
Omaha, Nebraska
Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com
Ive been searching the site for a few hours now or info on manually shifting the automatic transmission, so please forgive me if i missed what i am looking for. That link was given to me by a friend and I am considering doing it but had a few questions about it first.
1. Will it override the TCU?
2. Will this be a bad idea for a daily driver?
3. Anyone have their own spin on this with more options?
4. Theres nothing for information or instructions to go along with the diagram. Does anyone have any instructions they could give, or tips?
5. What are the pros/cons over a shiftbox?

Recently my TCU friend and im having a hell of a time trying to find a replacement, and would like to have it back on the road soon. This seems like a pretty decent way to go and id prefer to be able to use the stock shifter, over a shift box. (however i do have access to borrow a friends IPT shift box for a while if need be.)
 
shoot I didnt realize this post was here or I wouldnt have made a new thread... would like more info on this also... mainly how to wire it up correctly?!!!!
 
For anyone wanting to know I finally got this wired up and WOW... I love it will.. shifts instantly and insanly hard... and yes this wiring throws away the stock TCU and makes your trans full manual control all the time.
 
I'm also in the process of doing the Kiggly mod, but with a B&M Shifter. From what others have said, it's not recommended for daily driving, due to the added stress on the transmission shifting under full line pressure at all times.
 
From what I understand it dose not affect the drive train at all. If you go on dsmtalk and search some auto related topics its just hear say rumor like what typically happens.
 
I would go with the RoadSurge shift box but it wouldnt be something I would keep on while normal driving.....
 
Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com
Ive been searching the site for a few hours now or info on manually shifting the automatic transmission, so please forgive me if i missed what i am looking for. That link was given to me by a friend and I am considering doing it but had a few questions about it first.
1. Will it override the TCU?
2. Will this be a bad idea for a daily driver?
3. Anyone have their own spin on this with more options?
4. Theres nothing for information or instructions to go along with the diagram. Does anyone have any instructions they could give, or tips?
5. What are the pros/cons over a shiftbox?

Recently my TCU friend and im having a hell of a time trying to find a replacement, and would like to have it back on the road soon. This seems like a pretty decent way to go and id prefer to be able to use the stock shifter, over a shift box. (however i do have access to borrow a friends IPT shift box for a while if need be.)

1. yes
2. no IMO
3. I just shift with toggle switches, but this looks easier (harder to install, but easier to use).
4. [I haven't done it like this]
5. You use the shift lever, the shift box uses buttons. It would be user preference. The shift box can be shut off with the flip of a switch though, so that could be handy.
 
Im trying to make sense of the Kiggly wiring diagram. What is the big harness coming from? What is it going to?
 
Im trying to make sense of the Kiggly wiring diagram. What is the big harness coming from? What is it going to?

Large harness is off the gear selector/neutral safety switch on top of the trans. It originally goes to the TCU side of the harness, but this mod bypasses that completely. BTW, I just finished mine & using in conjunction with a B&M shifter. All I can say is DAM!!! It's day & night shifting a big turbo(FP-3575) with no spool up between shifts. Shifts are fast & crisp:hellyeah:
 
Large harness is off the gear selector/neutral safety switch on top of the trans. It originally goes to the TCU side of the harness, but this mod bypasses that completely. BTW, I just finished mine & using in conjunction with a B&M shifter. All I can say is DAM!!! It's day & night shifting a big turbo(FP-3575) with no spool up between shifts. Shifts are fast & crisp:hellyeah:

I was figuring that that was the neutral safty. Mine just has a plug, that looks like the wires are part of it.

Thats awesome! Im definatly doing it, im gonna see how this works with a gt4294 off the sauce sitting on the converter. Im thinking the 2.4 will help. Whats your setup? Are you spraying it out of the hole...man I cant wait to do this, you got me all pumped! :hellyeah:
 
I'm assuming this creates 100% line pressure scenario, which will make your auto trans very capable and shift very fast/hard!
I loved it when my car was auto with the "blue wire" mod
 
I understand it pretty clear, Im just trying to understand were/what harness the diodes are going to, and the "starter solnoid from key" "out to starter solnoid"

Are they cut? or its just for the diagram and you dont have to touch them? And the blue wire to switch 12v...im assuming is meaning run it to a key switched 12v power to?
 
I understand it pretty clear, Im just trying to understand were/what harness the diodes are going to, and the "starter solnoid from key" "out to starter solnoid"

Are they cut? or its just for the diagram and you dont have to touch them? And the blue wire to switch 12v...im assuming is meaning run it to a key switched 12v power to?

-Diodes go between gear selector & shift solenoids (which are attached to the valve body)

-Disconnect starter solenoid wire & connect it directly to "starter solnoid from key" wire

-"out to starter solenoid" wire connects directly to starter solenoid

-Yes, any 12v switched power.
 
-Diodes go between gear selector & shift solenoids (which are attached to the valve body)

-Disconnect starter solenoid wire & connect it directly to "starter solnoid from key" wire

-"out to starter solenoid" wire connects directly to starter solenoid

-Yes, any 12v switched power.

Thank you!

Yes that makes more sense to me...I guess im not the sharpest tool in the shed LOL.

Got it figured out...Now I just gotta get swapping. Maybe Ill make a new member blog for the new killer.
 
I wonder if you can take from this diagram and wire a trans break? It's just 1st and reverse at the same time. Somebody smarter than me chime in, I'm just throwing the idea out there. A break on an auto awd would be amazing.
 
i think its been gone over before you can't make a transbrake on a dsm stock valve body due to the fact a transbrake uses reverse on a solenoid much like our forward gears are so basically when its in gear say on a turbo 350 the manual valve in the trans activates the gears based on position in the valve body and you press the button which locks 1st / reverse together

it can be done with a dsm valve body and i believe that xtreme drag was looking into having it done years ago but i think only their prototype was produced but don't quote me on that ! LOL
 
oh well I guess there had to be a reason I never heard of anyone using one.
 
It sure would be nice if someone could figure this out, though. If someone came up with a mod that would allow the use of a transmission brake, even one that required internal changes to the transmission, it would sell.
 
It sure would be nice if someone could figure this out, though. If someone came up with a mod that would allow the use of a transmission brake, even one that required internal changes to the transmission, it would sell.

it sure would, i guess for now line locks on all four with have to work.
 
Why do people want transbrakes when we can 60 foot faster on the foot brake than the drivetrain can handle without breaking as is?

Pretty sure turbos spool better on a footbrake anyways.
 
Why do people want transbrakes when we can 60 foot faster on the foot brake than the drivetrain can handle without breaking as is?

Pretty sure turbos spool better on a footbrake anyways.

I thought you told me once that once you're in boost you had trouble keeping your car still?
 
I thought you told me once that once you're in boost you had trouble keeping your car still?

yeah, with 7 inches of vacuum going to the booster.

23 inches of vacuum holds the car still just fine. Too much pre-load will brake stuff too. Our brakes in good working order will hold just enough power still to not brake often.
 
I haven't raced my car as an auto yet, but I'm imagining that it is a bit of a challenge to pre-stage, put it in neutral, rev the engine to get vacuum, push the brake down, put it back into gear, start brake boosting, let the car creep forward enough to stage as boost starts to build, then hold the car from rolling once staged as boost builds and the lights are counting down, then launch while still concentrating on your reaction time without at least screwing up one of those steps. The trans brake just makes the process a little simpler.
If you are worried about going too far, use a rev limiter.
 
I haven't raced my car as an auto yet, but I'm imagining that it is a bit of a challenge to pre-stage, put it in neutral, rev the engine to get vacuum, push the brake down, put it back into gear, start brake boosting, let the car creep forward enough to stage as boost starts to build, then hold the car from rolling once staged as boost builds and the lights are counting down, then launch while still concentrating on your reaction time without at least screwing up one of those steps. The trans brake just makes the process a little simpler.
If you are worried about going too far, use a rev limiter.

Reaction time does not affect your 1/4 mile times. Just take your time, do your thing and leave when you're car is ready to launch
 
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