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kicker sub

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So if I get that sub and do the AMP at 2ohms will I get the 750rms?

NEW KICKER VS12L7 L7 12" Car Audio Subwoofer + Sub Box - eBay (item 350420972777 end time Dec-12-10 20:01:58 PST)

NEW KICKER VS12L7 is rated for 750 Watts RMS at 2 Ohms, which means that's the maximum RMS power output of the subwoofer. You can get a 300 Watt amp and hook it up, if you really wanted to, it just means that the sub rated at 750 watts will play at 300 Watts RMS max.

You can get a 600 Watt @ 2 Ohms Mono Amp or a 800 Watt @ 2 Ohms Mono Amp. If you want to use the sub to it's max power output, get a 800 Watt Amp that way you have some headroom. I use a 600 Watt amp that has a 60 amp fuse, I didn't want to get an amp that puts a load on my car's electrical system.

You can get this one - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...136376QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo#ht_3898wt_1101
 
I would recommend you get an amp around the 800 watt rms range because I've seen Kicker subs easily take more power then their rated at with no issues. If the amp is rated at significantly more then 750 watts rms just make sure to listen for any sign of distortion and turn it down immediately if you hear it. Unless you have an amp already I wouldn't worry about that though because why would you spend more money on a more powerful amp then you need? The only other recommendation I will give you is to stay away from "cheap" non name brand amps. Not only may they be of lesser quality, but they might also be overrated. As long as you buy a reputable brand it should actually produce the power advertised. Just make sure the power advertised is the RMS output, not peak output. Peak output is pretty much a worthless number that is really just for advertising. By the way, If you stick with Kicker for the amp, they include a certificate showing what the amp was actually tested at before it was packaged to be sold. This number has always been higher then advertised in every case I know of. They also make a 750 watt RMS amp that is perfectly matched to that sub.
 
There you go those 2 just answered your question.
I've been in the bussiness for years and couldn't have said it better myself.
ZDrummers post about the sub abd box is right on too.
Those are the basics you need, what they just said.
Your stuck on the Kicker so go for it.
That's what i always used too :D
 
to this day i yet to find a sub that hits as hard as a

orion.. HCCA 10-Inch Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer..


that sub kiks hard as fvck..... i sh!t you not.... jl,s w7 isnt close to this one....
 
Generally speaking, the larger the magnet, the harder the sub will hit.

I have great success with Zapco amps. They are generally underrated and deliver mounds of wattage.

I have had the most success for durability with my subs when I have them running on a 4 ohm load. I have ran some on a 2 ohm load, but the amps generally will run hotter and might get into shutdown mode if it gets too hot from bumping; like in the summer sitting in traffic. I recommend staying on a 4 ohm load to help the lifespan of the speakers.

And hooking up an Audiocontrol Epicenter will enhance the lower spectrum of the soundband and give you louder, crisper bass out of smaller setups. I highly recommend this company. It will also give you in-cabin control over the volume so you can turn it down when not wanted. I even think Crutchfield started selling them.
 
I like FI and RE audio. Watch out for prefab boxes they are usually to small, have excess port velocity, and are tuned to the wrong frequency.

Watch your power wire, I ran 0 gauge on my old setup, which was a 15" RE SE, Rock Fosgate Power T1000.1 for the sub and a RF Power T400.4 for my 4 Boston Acoustic S60 Components.

My box was 3.5-4 cubic feet, my brother built it so I don't remember the specs off hand. It was ported and was very loud, the port loaded off the back hatch.

I removed all that stuff including the wiring, head-unit, speakers because of weight issues.

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i run 2 Kicker S12L7s on a 1500w Kicker amp (upgraded alt) in my Honda... I love it.. makes my nose itch and my eye balls rattle... open box .. custom fit to my honda and the dimensions needed for each speaker.. In the end its your choice on what you really want... because if you havent noticed.. every one has a different choice.
 
IMO kicker is garbage if you want quality. ive messed with the L line up and got more out of a pair of 12inch audiobanhs. if you want something around that kind of price and specs then look into soundstream subs will definitely give you nicer base and sound quality for about the same price.
 
JL < W7 are proof you don't need huge amounts of wattage to have good and loud sound.
 
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Generally speaking, the larger the magnet, the harder the sub will hit.

This is true, but remember it will also require more power to push those big magnets. I like to look for the biggest magnet for the money when looking for a subwoofer where hard hitting is the main priority. I used to run 3 12in subs with 120 ounce magnets in a ported box back in the early-mid 90's that I ran off of a 50w X 2 Pheonix Gold amp that I had running at a 1/2 ohm mono load.LOL (Try doing that with these new amps nowadays and it ain't gonna happen.) Needless to say I kicked everyones ass in the 0-100 watt class at the local bass competitions. I think my best with that setup was 147 decibles.
 
I highly recommend Audiopipe subs and amps. I've seen 2 AP 15s do 150+dB in a full size suburban. I can't imagine what they'd hit in a 2nd gen Eclipse (but I'm going to find out).

My recommendation: 2 AP15-TXX with a Crescendo Audio 3k amp.
 
I have experience with kicker subwoofers, they get really loud but their sound quality isn't worth it.
Also if you don't have a decent amp and enclosure they will sound like complete junk.
I recommend looking into Audioque, they make very nice audio components and sell them at a decent price.
 
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