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subs/amp help

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Skipped that post the first time read this thread. Kinda wish you hadn't pointed that out to me. It made me really wanna bash my head against the wall




Yes! For anyone else reading this, here's an example.

You have 2 speakers in front of you. Both have the exact same power ratings, frequency response, and size. The only difference is that speaker A is rated at 89dB and speaker B is rated at 93dB. If they both called for 300W RMS, speaker B would produce better results at 300W. Speaker A could produce those same results, but it might take a little more power to do so.
In short, you wanna go for the higher dB rating not to gain volume, but quality





In my experience, Ive found that most pre-fabbed bandpass boxes are absolutely horrid. Bandpass boxes need to be built specifically for the speaker thats going in them and are the most difficult enclosure to design and build. Even if everything seems like its right for the selected speaker, they usually dont allow it to produce frequencies to its full potential. If you ask me, they are mostly only good at producing frequencies on 1-2 octaves if that.

also about the efficiency thing.. after a certain level the wattage is transferred into wasted energy and heat..
there are many things to look at..
the fs of the woofer. which is the resonant frequency of it.. (where it likes to play and where its most efficient)
the bl. (which is magnetic force the higher the better. )
the list goes on but again your not worried about that..


and all prefab boxes are shit.. most that i have found are approx half to a full cube too small and tuned way to high for most music (around 48 hz )

let me know what you decide to buy i will be glad to design you a box.
 
But then throw in what type of music do you listen to?
I listen to rock and perfer the sealed box sound.
I used to compete and had 4 10's in a sealed box and for my metal music the double bass sounded great in there. Nice and tight.
But when it came to your bass that hit REAL low it wan't the best for that.
Then a nice pair of ported 12's or bigger would kill it.
Like someone said check out the stereo shops and other peoples systems to get a feel for the different sounds.
Also you get what you pay for.......If you can buy a 1000 watt amp for $100 dont be suprised when it fries out.
But do some research locally and learn a little, it will be well worth it.
Cheers

In my experience, Ive found that most pre-fabbed bandpass boxes are absolutely horrid. Bandpass boxes need to be built specifically for the speaker thats going in them and are the most difficult enclosure to design and build. Even if everything seems like its right for the selected speaker, they usually dont allow it to produce frequencies to its full potential. If you ask me, they are mostly only good at producing frequencies on 1-2 octaves if that.

I couldn't agree more here.
Every speaker is different, so it goes without saying the box is the same way.
Prefab's suck, unless you have nothing else available.
 
But then throw in what type of music do you listen to?
I listen to rock and perfer the sealed box sound.
I used to compete and had 4 10's in a sealed box and for my metal music the double bass sounded great in there. Nice and tight.
But when it came to your bass that hit REAL low it wan't the best for that.
Then a nice pair of ported 12's or bigger would kill it.

it all depends on how you tune a ported box.. :thumb:

as far as going to stereo shops thats about the worst thing he can do.. they are dealers and will push whatever they deal onto him. and dont care as long as they turn a profit..

honestly your best bet would be to stick to this thread...

give me a list..
budget
type of music.
max space to work with box size wise..

i will help you find something.
 
Thanks guys,

anyways chuckd.


budget=maybe like $300 for the amp and subs. again I'm not that hard to please

rock, rap, metal, ....pretty much anything but country haha

I am redoing my truck this winter, and I have just the rear strut bar, 1 gallon AEM meth kit and the sub and amp.
 
I'm running a 10' Jl audio w7 powered with 1000/1 Jl audio amp, for my mids and high i got pioneer speakers all around also powered with a Jl audio 300/4 amp... Sounds sweat :D
 
its efficiency rating.. 1w@1meter the higher the efficiency the better.

its called cone area.. much like displacement. the more cone area wins..unless there was a way to turbocharge the woofers LOL!!

;) I tried to simplify it... you probably lost a couple of members on that post! :thumb:
 
as far as going to stereo shops thats about the worst thing he can do.. they are dealers and will push whatever they deal onto him. and dont care as long as they turn a profit..

Well this is true, i dont know where you live and how your dealers are.
I used to install for botht the shops in town here and they are pretty cool people.
The one shop still goes to comp's.
If you get into rock, metal and some country some kickin 10's would do you fine then.
Space is the other issue.
You could still get into you wheel well for tire issues.
My 4 10's in my escort filled the whole trunk, and it sucked when i had to get in the wheel well.

I'm running a 10' Jl audio w7 powered with 1000/1 Jl audio amp, for my mids and high i got pioneer speakers all around also powered with a Jl audio 300/4 amp... Sounds sweat :D

I'll bet that does a nice little job.
A nice rounded system.
Nothing like a system with 4 15's and 10,000 watts for the lows and a crappy pair of 2 ways up front running of the head unit LOL
My one buddy that does SPL comp's has this in his truck.
Ya all it does is goes boom, not very good for anything other then tones.
 
i got you a list together

go to Audio Savings | Welcome to AudioSavings.com and then search
hifonics brutus. add the 1200 watt version
then search re audio
add the 10 inch woofer for 51 dollars.. i added two..
and then the db link 2 guage wiring kit..
this puts you around 330.00 shipped to your house. thats a decent price thats gonna give you GOOD performance.
now as far as the box. your looking at a additional 30 dollars. but i will design it for you.. you just have to build it.
 
Thanks guys,

anyways chuckd.


budget=maybe like $300 for the amp and subs. again I'm not that hard to please

rock, rap, metal, ....pretty much anything but country haha

I am redoing my truck this winter, and I have just the rear strut bar, 1 gallon AEM meth kit and the sub and amp.

$300 isnt much to work with if you wanna do it right. Keep in mind that you need more than just a sub and an amplifier. If youre going for a quality sub that you would be keeping for a while, I would spend a little more than youre thinking. heres a short list of some things that come to mind.

Subwoofer - $?
Amplifier - $?
Power cable
Ground cable
Remote wire
RCA cables
Speaker wire
terminals for the cables

Subwoofer enclosure
3/4 MDF wood
screws
wood glue
speaker box carpet
spray glue
wire terminals
deflex pad(optional but recommended
 
What ever the peak is it's half rms
no not really... take sony amps for example they claim 1200 watts actually rms at 245.

everyone already gave you the explanation i would give you

RMS>MAX RATINGS

HOW WELL BOX IS BUILD MAKES ALL DIFFERENCE.
EVEN IF YOU USE CHEAP EQUIPMENT (JUST REMEMBER YOU GET WHAT YOU PAYED FOR)

BUT ONE THING I DIDNT REALLY HEAR YOU OR ANYONE ELSE TALK ABOUT IS WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR, DO YOU CARE ABOUT WEIGHT? I WENT WITH A SMALL SET UP THAT HAS PROVEN IT SELF TO RIVAL EVEN 15 INCH SUBS.
 
well then your biggest factor will be the box it self. it can weigh anywhere between 25-40 bls if made out of wood. fiber glass is a great option for keeping light audio systems but if you dont know how to work with it your self it is verry expensive to have someone make one for you.

next i say go with a DUAL COIL 10inch sub. (Alpine type r for example)
theres others you can go with depending on your budget.

from there a ONE channel amp will work nicely does NOT have to be a MONO amp. its always nice if you can get one with an external base level knob for extra control of base.

as for the installation kit walmart has a nice one for abt 30 with all wires you'll need. theres even one with a .5 farad capacitor (can handle up to 500 watts) but that one is more expensive and not necessary if you want to safe money.

they way i wired my sub was with the parallel style diagram doing so will actually drop the ohm rating on your sub by about 1-2 ohms allowing it to hit lower base notes:thumb:.

from there its a matter of adjusting your amp levels (i never set them to full power more like mid range that way i have room to tweak with it from my stereo for more base if i wish.

leading me to my next step if you dont have an aftermarket stereo get one or its like getting a 20g turbo and leaving it at 10 psi, you'll never get its actual potential out. (i like working with pioneer because they have nice built in EQ)

heres some pics of my set up as you can see its not that impressive looking but i did my homework and did all the install and construction my self, but at the end of the day it suits my needs and then sum.:thumb: one last thing to remember is always place sub as far back as you can the desing of the hatch gives us great sound acoustics for sound quality.:thumb:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/384578-show-me-your-battery-relocation-pics.html
 
Nice job on the box Spawn, that's not my style but very nice job. Mad Props! How many cube's are in that box? It doesn't look like your using up much of the wheel well, does your tire still fit down there?

What is this?
Is it a support for the battery?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

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Nice job on the box Spawn, that's not my style but very nice job. Mad Props! How many cube's are in that box? It doesn't look like your using up much of the wheel well, does your tire still fit down there?

What is this?
Is it a support for the battery?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

thanx.

well the box is design for that sub so its 1 cubic foot not including the vent port.
i put the box as far down as i could as a result i took out my spare.
that side compartment is to access the stock jack and any tools i want to put there.
my battery is on the other side under an additional cover i made for it.
 

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