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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

Specs & Photos Build Thread (762)

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20G Build - Finish.
I skipped over an update, so I'm wrapping up the 20G build thread with these details. @JusMX141 found a bent fin on the compressor wheel that caused the contact with the housing, preventing it for spinning. He fixed it, and sent it back! Spins nice. So I brought the cartridge and the new E3 Turbine housing together and tested the 14b actuator. It lines up well, but I guess I was expecting more out of the throw on the actuator, cause the lift on the WG valve is less than I thought you want, but some say this is normal, so I'm just going to park it on the shelf waiting for the moment to present itself.
 
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We're on Boost said:
Finish, as in, Done? But ..... those words are never spoken here! 😂
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Finished, is what happened to the clutch - Done is what I am with the 20G LOL.

Test Drive - notes
the steering is effortless
find a smoother road
don't push so hard in the curves
these tires suck
 
I finished powering the GoPro4!
The camera battery I have is not reliable, so I picked up a pair of 12v to USB5v pigtails thinking to find switched power to tap somewhere. Somewhere turned out to be from a radio chassis harness I hijacked from an old head unit/preamp. Then, a little storage bin diving to locate a long USB cord with the right ends. Then poof, a couple zip ties later and its powered.
 
My last logs have a wideband steady at 14.7 - aaaaAaaah !!! all the time?! oh wow. Wild that during the test drive had no idea. One benefit of running a stock 02 on the front I guess.

I need to look and see if this is a sensor or wiring issue.
 
A new pigtail arrived from the benevolent overlord (amazon) - Its 6ft of 12v supply for a display - yet to be added - that will give more desktop to Pilink++, so that apps like Race Capture can project on its own instead of hiding behind everything. Not sure I like the size of the one I have. Smaller would be easier.

While splicing the pigtail into the same radio switched power I'm using for the 12v to 5vUSB that powers the GoPro, I checked on the Wide-band wiring. All looking normal. Running Idle, it behaves like normal. So weird that it flat-lined for the last test drive. I'll have to go again i guess.. ;-)
 
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We're on Boost said:
Well I watched it about 5 times. That was fun.
How do you have your camera mounted there? It seems good, like it's not wiggling around, and the field of view is just about right.
Could you show a pic of how you have it mounted?
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Sunroof glass and a regular GoPro suction cup.
IMG_6371.jpeg

IMG_6373.jpeg
 
Justin DuBois said:
Sunroof glass and a regular GoPro suction cup.
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Oh darn it I don't have a sunroof - no glass on the roof.
Have you ever tried it sucked onto the hatch glass? Then I guess you'd swivel the whole arm thing forward instead of down, to get the cam more forward. Ever tried that? Seems to me it would wiggle more with the arm horizontal going forward?
 
We're on Boost said:
Oh darn it I don't have a sunroof - no glass on the roof.
Have you ever tried it sucked onto the hatch glass? Then I guess you'd swivel the whole arm thing forward instead of down, to get the cam more forward. Ever tried that? Seems to me it would wiggle more with the arm horizontal going forward?
Click to expand...
If I had a solid roof, during the body shop phase I would have a threaded standoff welded to something under the head-liner and then cut a neat hole in the headliner to bolt the camera mount in place. The hatch glass is farther back than you think. I’d need a longer extension to extend forward from the hatch, loosing stability.
IMG_6376.jpeg
 
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Yup, a "35mm equivalent focal length" of about 50 mm. That's about what I like for most shots, and that's pretty much the definition of "medium". Then if I want even less dimensional distortion, like when shooting some car part, I might use a mild telephoto zoom of around 70 to 105 "35mm equivalent focal length".

Remembering back to 35mm film days, it was the same. The way different focal lengths worked out for that format got baked into photographic thinking, and that's why today we still see the "35mm equivalent focal length" usually shown in our camera software.

Those numbers are for when the zoom is done optically, with the lens. When it's done digitally like in a cell phone, with no change in the lens, then I don't know what happens!

The "equivalent" thing is what most of us are doing with our air/fuel ratio gauges too. We are not resetting the gauge to read true AFR for E85 or whatever. We are leaving it set to read "gasoline equivalent" AFR. It's fine!
 
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We're on Boost said:
Yup, a "35mm equivalent focal length" of about 50 mm. That's about what I like for most shots, and that's pretty much the definition of "medium". Then if I want even less dimensional distortion, like when shooting some car part, I might use a mild telephoto zoom of around 70 to 105 "35mm equivalent focal length".

Remembering back to 35mm film days, it was the same. The way different focal lengths worked out for that format got baked into photographic thinking, and that's why today we still see the "35mm equivalent focal length" usually shown in our camera software.

Those numbers are for when the zoom is done optically, with the lens. When it's done digitally like in a cell phone, with no change in the lens, then I don't know what happens!

The "equivalent" thing is what most of us are doing with our air/fuel ratio gauges too. We are not resetting the gauge to read true AFR for E85 or whatever. We are leaving it set to read "gasoline equivalent" AFR. It's fine!
Click to expand...
Someone else who speaks camera! Yes. Photoshop is another example. Dodge and burn tools, unsharp mask etc.. The digital realm inherited most terminology from its analog progenitor.

I was most confused by 14.7 stoic lambda of 1.0 when I started mixing fuel. I had a whole spreadsheet to calculate the actual stoic of e85 and everything in between, only to learn it wasn’t necessary.
 
Almost perfect. I flipped the arm on the suction cup mount, which put the camera in a good position front to back, but I want to lower it a bit more to move the vanishing point on the horizon farther below the rear view mirror.
Screen Shot 2023-10-09 at 3.01.46 PM.png

Now I can see all the mirrors.
 
Yeah that looks pretty good. In my car I'd want to be able to see the shifter in all positions, and what the left and right feet are doing (would have to go by watching the knees but that's ok), and my gauges and tach which are all right out there on top of the dashboard so they are easy. It would be just about like what you have there for cam position and wide/tele setting.

Oh I finally remembered - in the video you posted Oct 6 there is really no wind noise or wind buffeting noise. Does that mean all the windows are completely shut?
 
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