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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

ITFLYS - 95GSX 2.0L 6-Bolt Crank with 2G pistons, 1G TopEnd, with 2Gb-CamSensor and a Kiggly-CrankSensor - TD05H-Bastard 20G - E85 w 1000cc inj. ~25psi. Street driven track day car.

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So, I tried to pull the passenger side axle from the gearbox just unbolting the top a-arm ball joint, but even with the steering turned full left, there just wasn’t enough room to get the axel free, so I bolted the A-arm pivot back on.

Next attempt will be unbolting the compression arm and lower control arm and shock fork from the chassis.
 
1G CAS back in place, and it runs! and it sets off the smoke detector!

That answers a lot of questions. Valves must not have been bent in the process, and the mechanical timing is correct. ECU repair seems to be good so far.

This is good enough to put wheels on and turn the car around.
did they mention anything about getting "injector circuit malfunction" DTC. I am getting p0041 on my 1g and replaced plugs, checked wiring, resistor pack. no luck, so might send in my spare ecu to get caps replaced and socketed. hopefully that ECU is good to use.
 
did they mention anything about getting "injector circuit malfunction" DTC. I am getting p0041 on my 1g and replaced plugs, checked wiring, resistor pack. no luck, so might send in my spare ecu to get caps replaced and socketed. hopefully that ECU is good to use.
The Injector DTC resolved when ECM Tuning repaired my 95 ECU. If your 1G ECU has never had updated CAPS, it is a good bet that they are in need. I think the peace of mind from an inspection to rule out the ECU is worth the bench fee.
 
The Injector DTC resolved when ECM Tuning repaired my 95 ECU. If your 1G ECU has never had updated CAPS, it is a good bet that they are in need. I think the peace of mind from an inspection to rule out the ECU is worth the bench fee.
awesome, just sent my spare 1990 to them. awesome build! thanks for reply, keep up the good work!
 
Old gen ACT clutch
Oh yeah, thanks for those pics. The sharp notches at the outer corners of the spring windows are really bad for stress concentration. Then they fatigue. The windows should have rounded corners or overlapped, or something besides what that is. Do you remember what year that disc was new?
 
This is the awesome sauce - I need more ideas like this. Also in a bin somewhere (probably needs to be de-greased) I have a 6-Bolt Fidanza aluminum flywheel. I got 6 good reasons NOT to put it on, but I'm thinking I need to look at it.

What kind of clutch is good for ~400ft/lb torque, Bastard 20G with corn.
 
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This is the awesome sauce - I need more ideas like this. Also in a bin somewhere (probably needs to be de-greased) I have a 6-Bolt Fidensa aluminum flywheel. I got 6 good reasons NOT to put it on, but I'm thinking I need to look at it.

What kind of clutch is good for ~400ft/lb torque, Bastard 20G with corn.

Southbend from what I gather. @twicks69 could tell you more!
 
Fidanza flywheel:
IMG_6311.jpeg

A fingernail can find the edge of the warn friction surface, but it is perfectly smooth otherwise. I don’t know if it is still in spec. Now I’ll see if there are parts to be had for it.

Also, for comparison- x-clutch (i think) on the left and old ACT on the right. Notice, the corners of the spring holders on the x clutch are drilled circles. I won’t use either of these designs, and probably no point in hanging on to them.
IMG_6313.jpeg
 
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The list (updated)
*done

Bottom
*touch up down pipe
*rear mount
*starter (finger tight)
*inspection cover

*transfer case
*down pipe
*IC piping
*fork boot
*clutch slave
*cross brace
*front mount

*plastic fender shields
*wheel hand tight
*trans fluid

Top
*speed sensor
*starter (tight)
*torque check trans mount bolts
battery trey
battery
*BOV screw
boost leak test

intake
fan
test, 4 wheels in air
drop and check torque all wheels
and go
 
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I learned something during the boost leak test - the bottom pressure tap on the Greddy BOV is bleeding air somewhat. When I pinch off the hose, it stops the hissing, and I can't hear any other leaking.

All buttoned up down under:
IMG_6334.jpeg


Back whole again up top:
IMG_6335.jpeg


In the air, testing the clutch, I was able to shift well through all the gears, wheels spinning, speedo and reverse sensor still working.

On the ground, wheels torqued on, and ready to go:
IMG_6336.jpeg
 
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OOOoh, yeeeaah!

Short trip around the block - clutch and gearbox working as one again, and off to the freeway.

Steering is centered, (whew) alignment seems good. And now boost - got it. got a lot of it, some 24psi WOT data for the logs... and that is one fun ride!

Sounds like a tower of power too sweet to be sour. ;)

Glad you got it licked! Has to be a riot and a half.
 
I'm hitting more boost sooner. 24psi peak, @3400rpm, and I know this because I'm touching parts of the SD table that have never seen data before. This is good - The Kiggly crank sensor is baller, the turbo rebuild, and E3-O2 and down pipe modifications are going in the right direction and the clutch is holding.

"Back in the saddle again - "

New data to mine.
I got to 7K in 2nd and some WOT in 3rd, but there isn't anywhere good to get a full pull in 3rd gear.
 
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I got to 7K in 2nd and some WOT in 3rd, but there isn't anywhere good to get a full pull in 3rd gear.
I have that problem around here too.
On Lake Union here there are a lot of boat dealers, but the whole lake has like an 8 mph speed limit. Not good for the dealers to go out and test their prop selections and so-forth. So there is an official "Speed Lane" where you can go as fast as you want. Anybody can just go there at any time, blast through it staying within the buoys, and slow her down at the end of the run. It's not for racing. Sea planes have to land elsewhere so there's no interference from that. It's a way you can have a blast in a busy place.
Wish we had something like that for cars here!
 
I have that problem around here too.
On Lake Union here there are a lot of boat dealers, but the whole lake has like an 8 mph speed limit. Not good for the dealers to go out and test their prop selections and so-forth. So there is an official "Speed Lane" where you can go as fast as you want. Anybody can just go there at any time, blast through it staying within the buoys, and slow her down at the end of the run. It's not for racing. Sea planes have to land elsewhere so there's no interference from that. It's a way you can have a blast in a busy place.
Wish we had something like that for cars here!


I’d even be cool with a special license to use that lane. Harder test. Do it!
 
DSM life is a journey - not a destination.

I finally got this project to a point where the car is "done" if it wants to be. Now I'm preparing for future maintenance and performance changes.

Here are some go faster (parts) just sitting here waiting for the right moment:

TD05H Bastard 20G
AEM 340lph E85 pump
1000cc RC Injectors
Evo Beehive springs (for next head/valve job)
Fidanza Flywheel (for next clutch)

List of spare things to improve/locate:

PS Pump build (stuck valve)
Stripped front cross member bolt-nut (repair)
-8AN oil cooler hoses
Setrab oil cooler refresh
Head Gasket(s)
Head studs

List of things that need some professional help:

Valve cover Powder Coating
Valve job for 1G head
GVR4 transmission build (for 2g)
6 Bolt block rebuild
 
20G Build - Finish.
I skipped over an update, so I'm wrapping up the 20G build thread with these details. @JusMX141 found a bent fin on the compressor wheel that caused the contact with the housing, preventing it for spinning. He fixed it, and sent it back! Spins nice. So I brought the cartridge and the new E3 Turbine housing together and tested the 14b actuator. It lines up well, but I guess I was expecting more out of the throw on the actuator, cause the lift on the WG valve is less than I thought you want, but some say this is normal, so I'm just going to park it on the shelf waiting for the moment to present itself.
 
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