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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

ITFLYS - 95GSX 2.0L 6-Bolt Crank with 2G pistons, 1G TopEnd, with 2Gb-CamSensor and a Kiggly-CrankSensor - TD05H-Bastard 20G - E85 w 1000cc inj. ~25psi. Street driven track day car.

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Is that a Marantz receiver?
No, it's a Rotel RA-12 integrated amplifier. The current model of that would be the A12 MKII.
That little black box underneath it is a DSPeaker Anti-Mode 2.0 Dual Core which makes a correction for room resonances. It fixes bumps and dips in the response below about 200 hz. The subwoofer is self-powered so all it needs is a sub-out or preamp-out from the amplifier.
 
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Question;
How much of the rear motor mount gets disassembled?

I pulled the speed sensor so I don’t accidentally kill it, and plugged the hole with a paper towel. Unbolted the starter, and now not sure if I should pull the bracket off the trans, or just pull the bolt from the roll stop, or both.
 
Question;
How much of the rear motor mount gets disassembled?

I pulled the speed sensor so I don’t accidentally kill it, and plugged the hole with a paper towel. Unbolted the starter, and now not sure if I should pull the bracket off the trans, or just pull the bolt from the roll stop, or both.
Pull the bolt from the roll stop.
 
It looks like you get a lot of rust and corrosion there in Oakland. It wouldn't be from salt on the roads. Salty ocean air probably?
Anything you see with rust, is
A: An original part - all 28 years of it.
B: There was a time when I was "cleaning" off hardware with a wire brush wheel, but leaving it.
C: This car spent its first years on the East Coast, with snow and salt, then I moved to LA, and other parts of California.
 
Anything you see with rust, is
A: An original part - all 28 years of it.
B: There was a time when I was "cleaning" off hardware with a wire brush wheel, but leaving it.
C: This car spent its first years on the East Coast, with snow and salt, then I moved to LA, and other parts of California.
Ahh the east coast. I grew up in Milwaukee Wisconsin. As bad or worse probably for salt on the roads.
 
I figure, if I can get the car close to the max height of the trans jack, then use near full range of the jack to lower, will end up with the best chance to clear the car from underneath so I don’t have to fight removing the trans from the jack
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I’m thinking ahead, as I’m going to need to do this again in the not too distant future. Its only a matter of time with the HP numbers climbing as they are.

I cant help thinking I need to cut down the mount point on the adaptor, and make a bigger hole so the adaptor and a jack are closer together.
 
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Would one of these be any better? Stark scissor lift
Possibly - I've done this in the past with brute strength, but I'm not 25, 35, or even 45 anymore.
I think the tilt function might come in handy for alignment on re-install. Its not the best setup, but I can improve it with some modifications.
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This might help hold up the engine while the trans is disconnected
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This part does not work great with my jack, I think I will end up removing it.
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