Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[Justin DuBois]

Yeah - my guess too. The o-ring seems to have a lot of room to slide up and down on the output port. Not sure what is supposed to hold it in one place.

Ah, the pump is shorter than stock - great. now I see what I need to do.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I opted to drill a second position on the hanger bracket to hold the pump a little higher. Now the tip of the pump is farther into the o-ring, and the spacer can do its job and hold the o-ring from blowing out.

Pressure is holding, but the base pressure is too high. I think I have reached the limit of the stock pressure regulator.

 

[Stapl3]

If it holds there, you could run it and adjust the global. I run one of my cars at 80psi and it's awesome. The car behaves so much better. Snag is you still need room to raise 1:1 with boost. My car is a 16g so I figured I would run about 30psi, and my pump has the relief valve punched in so it will go 110psi, all is good. If my pump could do higher, I'd run higher than 80psi base. I see no downside, only better behavior.

You should have an adjustable though, just for the sake of fine adjusting the base fuel. Global can only do ~.5% adjustment either way, an afpr can do infinitely tighter than that.

 

[Justin DuBois]

If it holds there, you could run it and adjust the global. I run one of my cars at 80psi and it's awesome. The car behaves so much better. Snag is you still need room to raise 1:1 with boost. My car is a 16g so I figured I would run about 30psi, and my pump has the relief valve punched in so it will go 110psi, all is good. If my pump could do higher, I'd run higher than 80psi base. I see no downside, only better behavior.

You should have an adjustable though, just for the sake of fine adjusting the base fuel. Global can only do ~.5% adjustment either way, an afpr can do infinitely tighter than that.

The injectors really don't like to idle with 76psi of pressure - no matter the dead time. With no changes, it was idling lean. This is counter intuitive. Increasing the deadtime helped, but it is still running rough. This setup needs a new regulator.

 

[Justin DuBois]

This little guy should take care of the overrun:

DMR-RA, Direct Mount Regulator

Direct mount regulator DMR fuel pressure FPR

www.radiumauto.com

If I had the tool that can cut an ORB into the end of the stock fuel rail, I’d do it. For now I’ll use some bolt on adapters:

 

[Stapl3]

Slick.

edit: I see the collar clocks. Does it click per degree? Does it feel like it will firmly stay in place? Do you think it would change position on a fwd wheelhop? Is there a way to .lock. it at a position?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Slick.

edit: I see the collar clocks. Does it click per degree? Does it feel like it will firmly stay in place? Do you think it would change position on a fwd wheelhop? Is there a way to .lock. it at a position?

There are several pivot points, and yes the vacuum port spins smoothly 360 deg with resistance. I'll confirm if it still spins when pressurized.

The pressure adjustment has haptic detentes you can feel click when turning the pressure dial. No "lock" - This design may not need it - time will tell. I plan on looking for a black plastic "cap" to basically hide the fact that it is adjustable.

 

[Justin DuBois]

With pressure, the swivel connectors and the vacuum port still rotate.

Results: Base pressure is reduced, but not ideal target. 53psi is as low As I can go, idle control is good with some global and dead time adjustments. The issue is no increase with boost.
I will look at doing a siphon mod, and bypass the FPR solenoid and use my air compressor on the hose and check for rising rate.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Ah ha. Fixed the issue with the boost/vac , now the pressure goes up with boost.

I checked the logs, and confirmed that the afr condition went to 16’s when WOT starting to build boost. I’m amazed the knock sensor was quiet. It felt weird, it sounded weird, and the logs explain why.

Now to go look

Monitoring fuel pressure, with the pump relay on and a long vacuum hose attached to an air compressor dialed down to about 30psi, I manually pushed “boost” into the hose and monitored the fuel pressure - nothing changed.

I removed the barbed nipple threaded into the regulator, and found it blocked. Either they forgot to clear the hole that was drilled, or they expect you to drill it out to your liking. Tiny drill bit later, and now the barbed port flows air, and the pressure can get to the regulator to do-its job.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Rich reminded me the siphon/return has a tiny hole that creates back pressure on the pump hanger, so I used a 1/8” bit to open up the hole.

Similar to drilling a hole in an exhaust manifold with the engine running, I pushed air through both the siphon and the return hose fittings while drilling, to eject the plastic shavings.

Lets see if this helps with more control on the base fuel pressure.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Oh yeah, that helped some more, now we have control over the base pressure again.

So, to recap:
95-GSX- Rewired power, stock fuel lines, stock fuel filter, 6an supply from filter
Was:
SupraGreen (280lph), Stock FPR, Stock fuel pump hanger - 37psi base pressure

Replace pump
AEM 340lph pump - 76psi base pressure
Replace regulator
Radium DM-FPR - 53psi base pressure
Modify stock fuel return siphon
1/8 drill bit - 37psi base pressure

 

[We're on Boost]

I like the look of the Stack gauges.
Have to share this with you - my fave shot of a Stack gauge.
They apparently didn't care much about anything below 6,000 rpm.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Did anyone notice the 1000cc RC's on the rail?

you scrolled back just now - didn't you...

 

[We're on Boost]

you scrolled back just now - didn't you...

Me?
I did. Not only did I scroll back, I downloaded the installation instructions for that Radium regulator to see what they show about the vacuum reference hose and fittings. Nice selection of fittings for that. Too bad they didn't finish making that one you got!
I see the RC logos peeking out now.

 

[Justin DuBois]

With the pressure hose open, I’ll try the base pressure set to 43psi. Idle vac drops fuel pressure to 38. During the test drive I made 3 adjustments to global fuel and dead time to get closer to targets, started at 13, 12, now 11’s for AFR when WOT.

As I added more global fuel for WOT, I moved the dead time down and ended up at 0 to have the fuel trims +\- 2

Still need to add more global fuel, as I’m 10% lean across the board

 

[Justin DuBois]

Good alignment of Linear WB and AFRatioEst, Idle control is excellent, BoostEst and GM3Bar are in good alignment (unmolested 2G MAF with zero MAFcomp adjustments) 1000cc injectors give a good amount of IDC to work with, Boost control is working - 14.5-16.5 psi. I think this is a good stopping point for a MAF setup.

For fuel trims at idle, I ended up at -100 dead time to maintain +/- 2.0 CombinedFT

 

[CrackedDSM]

Good alignment of Linear WB and AFRatioEst, Idle control is excellent, BoostEst and GM3Bar are in good alignment (unmolested 2G MAF with zero MAFcomp adjustments) 1000cc injectors give a good amount of IDC to work with, Boost control is working - 14.5-16.5 psi. I think this is a good stopping point for a MAF setup.
View attachment 713609For fuel trims at idle, I ended up at -100 dead time to maintain +/- 2.0 CombinedFT

Where’d you get your gm 3 bar at? I’ve been wanting a legit one but everywhere I find is “gm style”. I don’t want reliability issues like the omnipower ones have.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Where’d you get your gm 3 bar at? I’ve been wanting a legit one but everywhere I find is “gm style”. I don’t want reliability issues like the omnipower ones have.

Mine came with the Stack boost gauge - but there are better sensors. I do think GM is better than OMNI, but there is a better designe IMO. I have been wanting to get one for a while:

Zeitronix MAP Installation

 

[Justin DuBois]

I've decided to reset my SD VE table, back to 2G default, and start new with this improved fuel system. This is before, and now with an initial adjustment for idle.

Before:

Now:

When I get some time on the road with this, I'll collect some more data and tweak my way back towards max boost.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Here is some decent data - I was hoping not to adjust global fuel as MAF is dialed in as is, but the data tells me to tweak my global fuel about 8% in the richer direction.

I don't think I should move the VE map - Convince me I'm wrong.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Well that was interesting - I think the last log, I was starting to suck some air on a low tank of fuel, and it was leaning out? After I threw in 8% more global fuel, and 5 gal in the tank, everything went full 9.6 rich WOT, and even fuel trims started pulling fuel out.

3 test drives later, the global fuel ended up back were I started before switching from MAF to SD - so I got what I wished for - and I'm starting to move the SD values to hit AFR targets before and after 5500rpm

 

[Justin DuBois]

Tank took 10 gal - and still not full full - so Yeah, I was running on a lot lower tank than my dash said so - back to the calibration table.

Yeah - 15.5 gal to full, I think I had 1 gal in the tank, and I could hear it sucking air on a tilt on the driveway - the gauge is off.

 

[Stapl3]

3 test drives later, the global fuel ended up back were I started before switching from MAF to SD - so I got what I wished for - and I'm starting to move the SD values to hit AFR targets before and after 5500rpm

In the same way you want the mafcomp slider to be 0 at ~5500rpm, you want your SD cell used at ~5500rpm to be a value of 100.

If you change it from 96.5 to 100, you may have to change your global/base fuel. This would be determined of course by doing a WOT pull past 5500 and seeing the relationship between afratioest and your wideband.

 

[Justin DuBois]

In the same way you want the mafcomp slider to be 0 at ~5500rpm, you want your SD cell used at ~5500rpm to be a value of 100.

If you change it from 96.5 to 100, you may have to change your global/base fuel. This would be determined of course by doing a WOT pull past 5500 and seeing the relationship between afratioest and your wideband.

My thinking is the peak VE is not always 5500 rpm, and for the default 2G MAP, the peak VE is around 4500. I'm finding my peak with a 1Gish setup is actually closer to 5000, and I'm moving the map as I get the data from various WOT pulls.

I did end up putting about 5% more global in, so the peak with a 99 in the cell will get to target, while I pull VE down in every other area running rich.

I'm also tweaking the boost control duty cycle table as I go. I think It will help the tuning if I can tame the spike and hold 15 psi with consistency.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Cold start on SD is working well - I found 2.5 sec of key on Pump prime a helpful setting to ensure a quick start when cranking.