is my timing right

[VyperFox]

Hello every one, just got around to finishing my rebuild after a thrown rod pulled the grenade pin and exploded let the grenade go boom, i search around the fourms, but would just like a second opinion from other if this timing is right, if no one minds that is, and yes i did start it up b4 and the head exploded last time i tried the timing myself, dont feel like that happening again. i did try to take it a shop but since to them the enging was "modified" ie BSE every where refuses to do any kind of work on it for thier own screwed reason,
heres what i have so far. please and thank u.

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[DSM1G90]

Cams look good, but wonder on the crank pulley mark if that's right on since we can't see the mark on the oil pump frame. But, the big thing is the gap in the autoadjuster - is that within the correct .157-.177 specs?

Good luck with your build - DSM

 

[VyperFox]

ill tear it back down sometime tomorrow to post a pic of that oil pump and let u guys take a look at it, and how do i find out if the auto tensioner is gaped correctly? if u dont mind me asking. please and thank you

 

[e85_4g63]

Keep in mind that if you deleted both balance shafts (aka Balance Shaft Delete) the oil pump doesn't matter where you line it up at. I've built many many 4g63's. I'm speaking from first hand exp.

 

[snowborder714]

^Correct. If you deleted them, the oil pump mark doesn't matter - it's just the crank pulley and cams.

They both look ok to me, but I'd like to see a picture of the cams with the camera level with the timing marks and not above them.

 

[johnmarines]

Before you take another picture rotate the crank about 10 times then take the picture if the cams at eye level.

 

[Indian]

ill tear it back down sometime tomorrow to post a pic of that oil pump and let u guys take a look at it, and how do i find out if the auto tensioner is gaped correctly? if u dont mind me asking. please and thank you

You have to measure with a drill bit between the body of the top of the tensioner where the grenade pin is,and the tensioner arm. It should be between 3.8-4.5 mm

 

[97SPYDER210]

what I would check is your ture tdc. put a screw driver in piston one and rotate till the screw driver is at tdc then look at the crank mark.what happen to me was I had the crank mark plate on backwards.good luck.

 

[e85_4g63]

Another thing I just thought of; do you have aftermarket cams? Just wondering. I see the cam gears are zero'd out. Which is no biggie for stock bump sticks, but if you have aftermarket cams, you'll want to degree those in. Even regrinds can move the center line of the cam off a little. Just throwing it out there.

 

[DSM1G90]

..I meant that mark on the pump cover where the notch in the crank pulley can align up to ... I did notice that he did a BS removal meaning the oil pump mark isn't used anymore...

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Everything is spot on. Fire away!

 

[steve]

Why does it look like the tensioner pulley is rotated into the water pump?
I think it's a 7 bolt engine but I always forget if it's a 6 bolt vs 7 bolt issues with rotating the tensioner pulley up/down or strictly 1G vs 2G.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Steve,
The 2G pulley rotates counter clockwise. But, in that pic, it appears that belt tension isn't quite up to snuff. I personally have always found that the perfect tension is when both holes on the tensioner pulley are parallel to the ground.

 

[snowborder714]

Clockwise - 1G tensioner arm
Counter Clockwise - 2G tensioner arm

From this tech article:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...l-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

 

[VyperFox]

thanks for all the help guys, this is what i have now, heres the eye level pic of cam gears sorry if its a bit blurry camera sucks at close ups. and yes it was rotated 6 times, the oil pump is out of time but since i have all the belts off still ill just fix that for the h*** of it, and did also use the screwdriver method in #1 piston for true TDC and alignment is still accurate,

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and this is the crank pic with added oil pump gaer mark visible, still after rotation.

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also went to check the auto tensioner, and it was gapped well over 9/64, went ahead and repined that grenade and retorqued the pulley bolt to see if it correct the gappage. shooting for this thursday to turn the key on it on hope and pray to god it runs or ima have to set it on fire

 

[snowborder714]

Look for the little flower icon on your camera - this is to turn on macro mode (it'll focus when the camera is very close to the subject). Then try and retake the cam gear picture.

It does look ok to me.

 

[VyperFox]

thanks, never new what that setting was for, heres that reshot of it.

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[NOSLO2PT0]

Are those lines etched into the gears, or they hand drawn? The one on the left looks hand drawn. That timing mark should be inthe center of an indent, between two teeth.

 

[DSM1G90]

Yes, the mark on the INT cam sprocket is in the right place, but the mark for the EXH cam sprocket should be right in the middle between the two teeth - the mark should be cutting through dead center, of the "U" cut of the sprocket. The line mark is a bit on the low side.

Could it be that both line marks are drawn then? If so, I wouldn't even think of turning that thing over on its own.

I'd pull that rocker cover off and see if the cams are dead center ... you might have to redo all over again to get it right.

Good luck as always - DSM

 

[snowborder714]

They're probably Fidanza cam gears, which are known to have one of the marks not perfectly in the valley.

 

[VyperFox]

forgot to mention yes they are findanza cam gear, and yes its etched in there, as for doing the whole thing again i do not mind but how do u check TDC from the valve cover off?, also i did read in a post some where here that i found before attempting this again that, u can count 39 teeth from exhaust to intake to see it its inline, and yes its 39 teeth counted. most likely i was more interested in lining up the line when turning it over by hand rather the the lining it up with the "U", ill try redoing the timing again sometime tomorrow if weather permits. thanks for all the help guys

 

[snowborder714]

You check TDC by shoving something long down the #1 cylinder and rotating the engine until you feel the long object start to go back down, since it's touching the top of the piston. Works with or without a valve cover.

I forget if you're to line up the lines or the gear valley/hill for the Fidanzas.

 

[DSM1G90]

Long stemmed screwdriver works wonders, or a 2 ft long wood dowel in quarter inch diameter so you can see the top of it if you have be down low to spin the sprocket. (sorry on that last comment on cover removal-been quite a while since I had to retime a motor like this starting from square one and forgot on the dowel trick that I mentioned ...)

-DSM

 

[VyperFox]

ill go check it again with athe screw driver to make sure just in case, also assuming judging from the old cams that broke (stock ones) im assuming you line up the hill and valley whereas not the lines, since if u line up the lines im counting 40(one tooth off) but if its the hill and valley method then its dead on 39 with crank lined up and pistoned bottomed out using the screw driver, gona recheck it again and hoping to start it up for the first time 3 months praying to god nothing breaks like the first attempt

 

[DSM1G90]

Now, not familar with these sprockets, What reference mark does the timing marks on top of each sprocket point to get the degrees wanted?

Are both sprockets pointing to TDC for it looks like the INT is a little retarded and the EXH is a little advanced. Desired position for the best overlap of the cams during operation?

thx-DSM