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Is this timing belt timed right?

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Talonious

10+ Year Contributor
52
2
Oct 23, 2010
Mason, Ohio
Well, I purchased a new timing belt and am curious as to if this is timed right...Ive seemed to match up all the marks even after rotation but would like another opinion. Thanks you guys.
Thanks
 
ok, i just for giggles put on my timing cover and my mark on my Harmonic pulley matches up with with the 0* on my timing cover. So Ill keep rotating it and make sure its right. Thanks guys
 
yeah ive been rotating it and it all lines up, the bi*** is just getting the auto adjuster pin to still be loose after rotation.
 
yeah someone told me im supposed to tighten the tensioner pulley (i made the special tool instead of buying one) until the adjuster pincan slide in and out freely, then tighten the tensioner pulley bolt down, rotate the motor 6-7 times and if the timing is correct and I can pull the pin out freely if its loose..Or is that not right?
 
it looks right, but make sure your tensioner is good, cause it will start skiping teeth if the pin is easy to press.
 
ok cool, well, also, i noticed between the 7-bolt motor and the 6-bolt that the tenioner pulley smaller holes (where adjuster tool goes) points opposite?? my 7-bolts tenioner pulley holes used to point down, not up. This correct?
Thanks

Oil pump, auto tensioner, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, oil pmp helical cut gears, are all new and oem, including oem cam gears, and various other brand new things like my allen bolt kit, etc.
 
yeah im aware of the dowel pins pointing up, i was talking about the tensioner pulley smaller holes being on top after everything is done...the holes where the special tool goes.


Thanks
 
Ya, that's a 6bolt setup and it definitely looks pretty square and exact. Pull the grenade pin and roll it over again the recommended six times to see if all stays aligned right and let it sit for a half hour, then roll it again for security sakes.

If it stays in, cover it up, drop it off the hoist and go have some fun.

Good luck-DSM
 
well i pulled the pin and rotated everything like 20 times, everything looks great, but I have a question, the gap that my auto-tensioner is supposed to have (measured with a drill bit, but i did mine with vernier calipers) says it's supposed to be .15-.18"....Now, my reading after after my auto tensioner has been sitting and after good rotation is at about .14 which means my belt is a little on the tighter side?

Is this ok or not? i mean its only off a hundreth and my belt is new so it hasn't stretched at all.

Thanks
 
This looks like a fantastic job! is the belt kevlar or OEM? Either way, .001 is nothing to worry about as far as the timing blet is concerned. As far as I can tell you are good to roll!


Thanks, and yeah it is an Oem timing belt, with new oem Water pump, Oil helical gears, idler, tensioner pulley, BSEK kit made from Oem parts, copper sprayed front case gasket, oem cam gears, and a allen bolt kit that I pieced together..

Most of those bolts i had to slowly cut the right length and reground/ die the threads but none are close to bottoming out..

Anyone buying seperate bolts do not go by what the 1g manual specifies, 50% of the lengths are wrong.

and DSM1G90 thanks for the help, I am dropping it in with a TRE stage 1 tranny this weekend ill have to drive before the snow hits!
 
I'm a little late to the party.

I think you are also supposed to put a screw driver through a hole in the lower balance shaft to make sure it is timed correctly.

There is a gear drive inside your oil pump that rotates the lower balance shaft at a different speed. even though the timing mark is lined up the balance shaft can be in one of three positions.

Also, the tensioner may move out .001 if you rotate the engine 30deg or so past TDC.
 
I'm a little late to the party.

I think you are also supposed to put a screw driver through a hole in the lower balance shaft to make sure it is timed correctly.

There is a gear drive inside your oil pump that rotates the lower balance shaft at a different speed. even though the timing mark is lined up the balance shaft can be in one of three positions.

Also, the tensioner may move out .001 if you rotate the engine 30deg or so past TDC.

I'm sure you missed the post or misread it but the OP said that he already installed a BSEK so he doesn't need to worry about the oil pump being in time.
 
I'm a little late to the party.

I think you are also supposed to put a screw driver through a hole in the lower balance shaft to make sure it is timed correctly.

There is a gear drive inside your oil pump that rotates the lower balance shaft at a different speed. even though the timing mark is lined up the balance shaft can be in one of three positions.

Also, the tensioner may move out .001 if you rotate the engine 30deg or so past TDC.

yes the balance shafts can be out even when all marks line up, car will run ruff at an idle ad if u drive it at about 3-4k ull have a vibration....i learned the hard way LOL
 
yeah to anyone confused I don't have balance shafts..I have an Oem stub shaft which bolts to the driven oil pump gear and 180* out bearings in the front shafts place.

and like I said my measurement is off one hundredth which is .01 but thanks guys It's going in this weekend can't wait.!!
 
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