is my timing right

[VyperFox]

Hello every one, just got around to finishing my rebuild after a thrown rod pulled the grenade pin and exploded let the grenade go boom, i search around the fourms, but would just like a second opinion from other if this timing is right, if no one minds that is, and yes i did start it up b4 and the head exploded last time i tried the timing myself, dont feel like that happening again. i did try to take it a shop but since to them the enging was "modified" ie BSE every where refuses to do any kind of work on it for thier own screwed reason,
heres what i have so far. please and thank u.

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[VyperFox]

must be at the angle the pic was taken since it was not taken at cam/eye level the marks on top of the cams are zero'd out so there are not advanced or retarted there is a little indenture on the cam gear below that center dash on the cam gear where the degrees are at positioned are 0 degrees on both INT and EXH but ill go check that timing and position in a few hours today

after playing with the tensioner and and the belts and after finding the tdc with a screw drivers this is the final result

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after calling fidanza on the cam gears and wrapping the belts around them, this is the final results.

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as for previous question about the cam degrees heres a closer view of both the int gear.

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and the exh gear.

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.
think its all good go?

 

[steve]

I like the positioning but the belt looks a tad loose.

 

[VyperFox]

hmmm gona have to check on that then could of sworn it was tight enough the tensioner is gapped a tad over 9/64 and the pulley was torqued to 30 lbs clockwise, am i missing something then?

 

[steve]

It may be just from it sitting but if it's like that right after cranking the engine by hand it's not right. I assumed you had just turned the crank to line the timing marks up again for the pictures and the belt should have been under tension.

That why they have you crank the engine and line up the timing marks, check the clearance on the auto-tensioner and then wait 15 mins before checking it again to see if it's still in spec.

Most of us use a slightly more rigid test for clearance then measuring the gap by adjusting the tensioner pulley preloading until the grenade pin in the auto-tensioner moves freely, tighten down the tensioner pulled bolt, check the grenade pin movement, crank then engine over, check the grenade pin movement, wait the 15 mins, check the grenade pin movement and if it's still moving freely in the auto-tensioner make sure everything is torqued down as it should be before removing the grenade pin and closing up the engine. All of this assume your not using the long threaded adjuster to hold the tensioner arm in place since you can't correctly set the preload when it is.

 

[VyperFox]

It may be just from it sitting but if it's like that right after cranking the engine by hand it's not right. I assumed you had just turned the crank to line the timing marks up again for the pictures and the belt should have been under tension.

That why they have you crank the engine and line up the timing marks, check the clearance on the auto-tensioner and then wait 15 mins before checking it again to see if it's still in spec.

Most of us use a slightly more rigid test for clearance then measuring the gap by adjusting the tensioner pulley preloading until the grenade pin in the auto-tensioner moves freely, tighten down the tensioner pulled bolt, check the grenade pin movement, crank then engine over, check the grenade pin movement, wait the 15 mins, check the grenade pin movement and if it's still moving freely in the auto-tensioner make sure everything is torqued down as it should be before removing the grenade pin and closing up the engine. All of this assume your not using the long threaded adjuster to hold the tensioner arm in place since you can't correctly set the preload when it is.

im a little lost from that, what did was, used that special miller tool to pin the grenade and removed the tool, wrapped the belt according to tdc of piston #1, after the belt was at its marks, i torqued the tensioner pulley clockwise to 30ft lbs, waited 15 mins then let pulled the grenade pin, rotated clockwise another six times, then waited another 15 mins and rotated it again another 6 times, and everthing is still lined up. either that or im misreading something from your post

n/m think this link explain what u meant, sorry should of used the search button a little more, ill try that method when i get a chance didnt know u could do it that way, with that being said, the pulley wasnt pre-loaded with enough tension then ill re-do at later time.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...5-timing-belt-tensioning-tips-4g63-turbo.html

 

[steve]

The act of torquing the tensioner pulley bolt down doesn't set the preload. You set the preload by rotating the tensioner pulley into the timing belt until the pressure on the belt causes the grenade pin to become free to slide in and out. Then you torque down the bolt making sure not to move the tensioner pulley and change the pre-load.

After the 15 min wait, you don't rotate the crank again since that would change the resting belt tension and that's what your checking at that point. After resting 15 mins the timing belt tension should still allow the grenade pin to move freely if the pre-load was correct and the auto-tensioner is good.

 

[khomza]

Did you buy a new tensioner because they are highly recommended to be replaced as well, not only by the dealer but dsm'ers as well.

 

[DSM1G90]

Seems more like an easier step than using the adjustment rod - in which I made one from a length of 8mm rod with two 13mm nuts on the end tightened together so I can use a socket on the end of it.

 

[steve]

I only use the threaded rod to compress the old auto-tensioner if it's really needed. Usually the old one is going in the trash so I just release the tensioner pulley and take the belt off then unbolt the auto-tensioner.

If it's a new auto-tensioner and the belt is in place I can reinstall a grenade pin by adding or releasing tension by rotating the tensioner pulley. If the auto-tensioner rod has twisted so the holes don't line up any more I take it off and slowly compress it on a vice.

I have the real Miller tool in the toolbox and I haven't used it since the first time. The pulley tool I use all the time now. I did my first belt with a homemade one and quickly picked up the real tool afterward.

 

[VyperFox]

Thanks to everyone for thier advice time, end is result this car ive been working is back on the road, well it just starts and runs, with freeze caps leaking and a coolant hose that needs replace, but as far as the timing went, it went off without a hitch, thanks to all for the help in this project. end result
now to save up more money to get rid of the stock air box and use a big cone filter, stock air box a pain to work around