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1G Installing a turbo 4g63 into an NT 4g63

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it ia there to help with cold starts when there's very little fuel pressure in the rail. i don't currently run one on my car. i'm not even going to plug it in i don't think this time.
 
it turns out that all the slipping problems i was having were in essence my fault. the tranny was mounted a little off perfect when the front mounting point was re-welded back on (long friggin story :( ) and it kept causing the input shaft seal to leak and throw 80w-90 oil all over the flywheel. if i hadn't had a puck clutch it would not have held at all. now that i've "worn the oil out of the friction surface" it holds pretty damn good. well enough to spin the tires through second, hold up to 4000rpm slipping launches, and hard shifts day after day. of course with it being a puck clutch its a little rougher than most clutches, but with it being a 5 puck its still not racecar instant engagement.

so if you want a good clutch that will not break the bank and don't mind a 5 puck day to day go to www.capclutch.com and pick up their HX Pressure Plate and the Clutch Disc CB for the eagle talon nt 2.0 . i personally only have the HP pressure plate, and the HX is even stronger. the HP pressure plate and CB disc kept me planted to 104+ traps in the quarter and probably around 250hp at the wheels.
 
If i buy the 5puck CB disk and HX pressure plate separately wont i still need new throw and pilot bearings? i didnt see a kit with the 5 puck CB disk. can i buy the bearings without a kit or can i buy a kit with a CB disk?
 
what you'll need is a new throwout bearing and a pilot tool. you can pick those up anywhere, but i'd stick with a dealer throwout bearing and just get the pilot tool from advanced auto since i know for a fact that they usually even have one in stock. just buy the parts separately. you can order just a disc of your choice (get the 5 puck) and a pressure plate of your choice (get the hx).
 
Hey, can someone post a link or show me exactly how you guys are wiring in the resistor pack?

Thanks

Rogue
 
Originally posted by Rogue_Ant
Hey, can someone post a link or show me exactly how you guys are wiring in the resistor pack?

Thanks

Rogue

well i had a great diagram on the first page, but apparently something happened to it. i'll try to get back ahold of it or come up with another one. i might even just take a pic of the setup i already have.
 
I would like a diagram for future reference, but I re-read the procedure and I think I got it.

Rogue
 
I'm running 16psi of boost on a 16G and a FMIC with cams, 2G MAS all on the non-turbo tranny. The ACT clutch kit with street disk and medium pressure plate works like a charm. It's supposed to hold to 250lbft of torque but the guys at Magnus said it will be able to handle more.

As for the resistor pack, it's simple.
1) Buy a resistor pack.
2) Open up the wire harness that runs to each injector. You will find 2 wires going to the plug.
3) Cut all the thick yellow wire running to EACH injector.
4) Take the white wire from the injector pack and connect it to just one of the wires you just cut. Make sure it is the one that runs TO the car, not to the injector.
5) Connect all 4 black wires from the injector resistor pack to the wires running to the injectors. Order doesn't matter.

Done.
 
You seem pretty knowlegable about this topic so I thought you might be able to give me some direction here....

I am wondering if the Non-turbo 2.0L short block is interchangeable with the turbo 2.0L short block? Is there any difference?

Thanks,
Matt
 
Originally posted by mlong2001
You seem pretty knowlegable about this topic so I thought you might be able to give me some direction here....

I am wondering if the Non-turbo 2.0L short block is interchangeable with the turbo 2.0L short block? Is there any difference?

Thanks,
Matt

if you're talking about just the block itself there are some changes.

1. the knock sensor hole on the nt is behind a different cylinder i believe its 2 instead of 3.

2. no oil squirters.

3. different pistons obviously.

4. different oil filter assembly, either air cooled for the 1990 blocks or watercooled for the 91-on turbo blocks.

of course there are lots of other little differences such as the water pipe from the water pump and stuff.
 
Originally posted by mavisky


if you're talking about just the block itself there are some changes.

1. the knock sensor hole on the nt is behind a different cylinder i believe its 2 instead of 3.

2. no oil squirters.

3. different pistons obviously.

4. different oil filter assembly, either air cooled for the 1990 blocks or watercooled for the 91-on turbo blocks.

of course there are lots of other little differences such as the water pipe from the water pump and stuff.

Well if they are both 4G63 engines on 2G cars why would the block be different? ... I cant find any differnences besides the pistons that would change the compression ratio. Are these blocks interchangeable with new crank, rods, and pistons?

Matt
 
what the hell are you talking about a 2g for?? you don't have the 4g63nt. that's the whole point of this thread is the differences between the 4g63nt and the 4g63t, i could care less about the damned 420a in this particular thread, it has no relevance at all.
 
The 2G n/t has a 420a. Buy a turbo kit for that. Maybe you hit 2G and meant to hit 1G on the keyboard but never the less, if you think that you can just throw in a turbo engine into a 2G n/t, then do it. I'd like to see $6k go to waste by an idiot.

btw - I only am calling you an idiot if you think the USA version of the 2G n/t has a 4g63
 
Originally posted by TimG
The 2G n/t has a 420a. Buy a turbo kit for that. Maybe you hit 2G and meant to hit 1G on the keyboard but never the less, if you think that you can just throw in a turbo engine into a 2G n/t, then do it. I'd like to see $6k go to waste by an idiot.

btw - I only am calling you an idiot if you think the USA version of the 2G n/t has a 4g63

under his name it mentions he has a 95 tsi so i don't even know what he's doing in here.
 
I am bringing this thread up from the dead... I am dropping a 92 tsi engine into a 1990 n/t eclipse, I have a 92 turbo Ecu and the 1990 n/t wiring harness... unfortunatly most of your detailed pictures are gone I am getting most of what your talking about but i'm still slightly confused on some wires. If you have those pictures and you read this post i would die for the pictures. I don't have any of the solenoids yet and i plan on getting them but some of you were saying that the fuel pressure solenoid is not needed? if not that is great i will not worry about it but i still need to purchase the other 2 do i not? any replies on this would be greatly appreciated

-Travis
 
i am kinda new to the DSm scene so please excuse my ignorance.

i have a 93 eclipse N/T and i just bought a 91 talon TSI complete car but wrecked for $100 dollars in order to do this swap i will need to drop in the engine change transmission and clutch and fuel pump.now for the wiring this is probably gonna sound easier then it really is but could i just save the wires from the resitor pack knock sensor and other sensors than just plug them into the ecu. And i will have to put in the turbo ECU right??? and the NT harness will just plug right into the turbo ecu right?

thanks for everything guys
 
i was just wondering if there was a specific reason that the article at the begining of this thread says 1991-1993. Does the 94 N/T have specific differences from those years? I've been looking into the swap for my car. To me everything seems to be the same. Let me know what you think.

thanks
 
thenewguy said:
i was just wondering if there was a specific reason that the article at the begining of this thread says 1991-1993. Does the 94 N/T have specific differences from those years? I've been looking into the swap for my car. To me everything seems to be the same. Let me know what you think.

thanks


no it will work fine on a 94, the only oddball is the 1990.
 
Well, I'm in process of dropping a turbo 4G63 into my GGSX so I find I'm reading some material pertaining to this mod.

So, to summerize, the NT wiring harness doesn't have the associated plugs to add the injector resistor pack and knock sensor or the extra wire for the MAF.

RESISTOR PACK: It is needed because of the different impedence? So, what do the NT 2g guys do when the turbo their cars? How do they steer away from this madness with the harness? What's the impedence difference NT-T? Could it be "bypassed" by running larger injectors that have NT impendence?
 
Morphius said:
Well, I'm in process of dropping a turbo 4G63 into my GGSX so I find I'm reading some material pertaining to this mod.

So, to summerize, the NT wiring harness doesn't have the associated plugs to add the injector resistor pack and knock sensor or the extra wire for the MAF.

RESISTOR PACK: It is needed because of the different impedence? So, what do the NT 2g guys do when the turbo their cars? How do they steer away from this madness with the harness? What's the impedence difference NT-T? Could it be "bypassed" by running larger injectors that have NT impendence?


honestly i have no idea how the 2g guys do it. but yes you could get some high impedance injectors instead of adding the resistor. i haven't seen much above 550cc though on high impedance injectors (at least from RC Engineering)
 
alright...ive been reasearching the turbo swap for a bit and im wondering why i must use the n/t flywheel. If the tranny is essentially the same (my repair manual treats them as the same thing i think) what prevents me from using the turbo one? Im curious because i will be using a 6bolt block with a tranny in a 94 (7bolt) and dont really want to have to go out and buy a 6bolt nt flywheel. am i an idiot, did i misread? help me out.
 
the nt bellhousing and flywheel are physically smaller. if you'd read the tech article you'd see where i said in it that the turbo flywheel will not fit inside the bellhousing and rotate freely with a turbo clutch on the flywheel as well.
 
hi guys.. im picking up the 6 bolt donor car on the 23rd of this month! :thumb: now, im gonna swap the tranny too ! now ill let u all know how it works out ,i might just swap the entire wireing harness over because i got 98 euro spec 4g63 nt ,the donor car is a 1990 US spec gst... i dunno if i modify the wireing harness LOL but it wouyld be great if it would work out..maybe the wireing harness hasnt changed from the 1g nt(wishful thinking LOL) ecept maybe for emissions crap i guess..

has anyone figured out the injector issues..couldnt i just use some imjectors with a high impendance rating rather than a resistor pack? (but i got both cars.. so,ill see what happens!)
 
here's a new pic for the injector wiring harness, i'll be pm'ing luda to see if he can add this into the original vfaq.

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