Installed 16g, problems arise..

[MountainDew]

Searched a few pages but couldn't really find anything. It's late, so my bad. I'm just tired I've spent 6 hours working on the DSM after being at school + work all day.

Anyways, I finally got a new turbo on my car and all my smoking problems are gone. The car is almost 100% in my books.

I'm having a problem with my LICP. It is just a tiny bit too short it seems like, but we made it fit. At first the car was running smoothly, as soon as it spooled up it blew the pipe off my J-Pipe. Barely got it back home and clamped the pipe again. It stays on and doesn't pop off, but now the car won't even boost. My gauge will read like 5psi at WOT and it takes a while to get there. Boost leak I'm sure.

What has everyone done got the LICP? I have two of them, but both have been cut already. Is there anyway I could get a piece of metal intbetween both to make it longer or use a coupler or somehow merge the two pipes together? What has everyone else done for their stock LICPs?

It's a tight fit. Right now it's inbetween the radiator hose and fan. I know that's not the best place for it. There is a minor kink in the hose. I'd check for boost leak, but I don't have a device made. Hoping for some answers so I can tinker with it when I get off work tomorrow night.

I'm anxious to really drive this thing. Also, now that I've put it on my shift linkage is very rough. Could the J-Pipe or something else be "crushing" the bearings or something?

 

[silver bullit]

J Pipe Needs A Bead Around It For It Not To Pop Off, It Should Have It Unless You Cut It.

 

[MountainDew]

I think it was cut when I bought it. I just got it on Sunday.

Jpipe however isn't popping off at the moment.

 

[Talesin]

I'm guessing that you blew off another intake coupler somewhere, check the SMIC output side. Definitely a boost leak.
I'd check clearances on the shifter linkage, it IS right next to the LICP and could be getting pinched up against things. Could also be your intake resting against the shifter linkage. Try taking out your intake snorkel and shifting, see if it gets any better, and if not have someone watch to try and find the binding. Otherwise, you may just need to adjust your shifter cables (there's an article up on VFAQ for the 1G, should be similar for the 2G).

As far as the intercooler piping blowing off, you can get the pipes professionally beaded, or do the 'cheapo' route... take off the part you want to bead, and make a thin line of epoxy or JBWeld around the pipe, just a bit in from the end, making a 'bead' without having to bend the metal of the pipe itself. Works almost as well, but with thermal expansion differences (especially right next to the turbo hot-side) it can wear out quickly. But it's good enough for at least a few months (if not longer), until you can find a shop with a beading machine. Just make sure you let the JBWeld/Epoxy dry fully BEFORE you put the couplers/intercooler piping back on. Don't want to epoxy on your piping, after all, just give the clamp something to 'bite'.

Silver, please use proper punctuation, capitalization and grammar in the Tech section.

 

[MountainDew]

Well I did probably one of the cheapest things in DSM history for my IC pipe..

I had two of them. So we cut part of one off, bought a piece of PVC, RTVed and slipped the pipe together, drilled 8 holes and put screws in then hoseclamped over the screws. It's holding boost just fine, but I'm sure there are possible leaks.

Seems to spool up kind of slow, and the BOV isn't nearly as loud as it used to be.

But it's still spooling to about 17psi. I might turn my MBC down until I get DSMLink though. What's weird is, when I had a hose going from the Jpipe to the wastegate, it wouldn't really boost at all. Gauge would read 5, and that was it. But when I hooked up the MBC, it boosts now. Ha first time I turned it up a little much, hit 21psi and blew off the PVC part of my hosing. This was before I screwed it down.

All in all though, all my smoke is gone and the car definitely pulls much harder now. Just has a few little bugs to be fixed and a few "test n tunes" to be done once I get link.

 

[xxraptor660xx]

Well I did probably one of the cheapest things in DSM history for my IC pipe..

I had two of them. So we cut part of one off, bought a piece of PVC, RTVed and slipped the pipe together, drilled 8 holes and put screws in then hoseclamped over the screws. It's holding boost just fine, but I'm sure there are possible leaks.

Seems to spool up kind of slow, and the BOV isn't nearly as loud as it used to be.

But it's still spooling to about 17psi. I might turn my MBC down until I get DSMLink though. What's weird is, when I had a hose going from the Jpipe to the wastegate, it wouldn't really boost at all. Gauge would read 5, and that was it. But when I hooked up the MBC, it boosts now. Ha first time I turned it up a little much, hit 21psi and blew off the PVC part of my hosing. This was before I screwed it down.

All in all though, all my smoke is gone and the car definitely pulls much harder now. Just has a few little bugs to be fixed and a few "test n tunes" to be done once I get link.

Do a boost leak test. Doesn't 17 psi of boost show knock?

 

[asexton6969]

Doesn't sound like you put together the greatest intercooler pipes. I know what its like to get by with cheap mods but I would seriously try to find something that will work alot better. Sounds like a horrible boost leak which could be the two hoses rtv'd together or possibly a vacuum hose popped off somewhere.

Im willing to bet the rtv blew though. I'd check it over, get it fixed for the time being and try not to boost. (We all know how hard that is) But buy a better LICP setup if possible.

 

[MountainDew]

I'm not datalogging, so I have no idea. I'm going to turn it down because I'm still on the stock fuel system.

Honestly this setup is just temporary. I have a front mount just sitting in my garage. I haven't had the time to mount it and I need to get piping made for it. I already have a hard UICP so I just need it going down from that to one end then the other going to the J-Pipe. The less couplers the better.

 

[kenamond]

If you don't have a logger, definitely turn the boost down. Might end up with smoke for other reasons.

Are you sure the turbo was clocked correctly? If not, the orientation of the compressor outlet will be off.

Do the boost leak test soon.

 

[MountainDew]

I bought the stuff to do a leak test, but the piping I got won't fit.

Anyone know the diameter for a small 16g? I'll take all the stuff back to ACE and get my 8 bucks back.

 

[kenamond]

I bought the stuff to do a leak test, but the piping I got won't fit.

Anyone know the diameter for a small 16g? I'll take all the stuff back to ACE and get my 8 bucks back.

Do you have a tape measure or ruler or better yet a set of dial calipers? Or rub some oil around the lip and smash a sheet of paper against it and measure the oil mark on the paper. Be creative.

My tester is maybe 1/4" larger ID than the compressor inlet OD, but it clamps down just fine when you tighten the clamp.

 

[MountainDew]

Do you have a tape measure or ruler or better yet a set of dial calipers? Or rub some oil around the lip and smash a sheet of paper against it and measure the oil mark on the paper. Be creative.

My tester is maybe 1/4" larger ID than the compressor inlet OD, but it clamps down just fine when you tighten the clamp.

Well, reason I asked, it's an EXTREMELY tight fit now. Various coolant lines and with the J-Pipe, it's kind of hard to squeeze down there and measure. Just another thing I forgot to do before installing the dam thing.

Also on the stock T-25 oil line, I sawed it off and am using hose going to the turbo. This is just temporary until I get an SS line. Will this hold up alright? I do run my turbo timer at 40 seconds currently.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

I remember for your other thread where you were saying your car was smoking. I'm glad that you took our advice and replaced the turbo and that it seems to have fixed your problem. Yea, like kenamond said, you need to turn your boost down ASAP. I'm running 14lbs. on my E3 16g... so somewhere around there should be fine, but definitely get a logger ASAP as well so that you can be sure. There's no standard setting, especially when nobody knows what condition your stock fuel pump is in.

Something that I did to help keep my IC pipes from blowing off was get some High Tack gasket sealant (It comes in a rubber cement type can with the brush) and put a layer of that on the ends of all my IC pipes and couplers before clamping them down nice 'n tight. That will probably help even if you only have 3/4" or so of space to clamp down on to.

 

[MountainDew]

Yeah like I said, I've got DSMLink all lined up and ready to buy. As soon as I deposit my paycheck I'll be paypaling the cash for it. Once I get that I'll do multiple pulls and post logs and see what I need to adjust. Also one of the first things on the to-do list is a stutterbox hehe.

 

[turbosax2]

16g is 2.25".

 

[SOADweskey]

Also on the stock T-25 oil line, I sawed it off and am using hose going to the turbo. This is just temporary until I get an SS line. Will this hold up alright? I do run my turbo timer at 40 seconds currently.

A DSMer from So. Cal. recently had a rigged together oil feed line on his turbo and it came apart on the freeway and the resulting spray of oil on a hot turbo resulted in an engine fire and a good bit of damage to the car.

I would not even drive my car without a proper oil feed line on it because I like my plastic parts un-melted.

 

[MountainDew]

A DSMer from So. Cal. recently had a rigged together oil feed line on his turbo and it came apart on the freeway and the resulting spray of oil on a hot turbo resulted in an engine fire and a good bit of damage to the car.

I would not even drive my car without a proper oil feed line on it because I like my plastic parts un-melted.

It's nothing plastic though. It is Goodyear hi-temp hose. I don't think it's anything that will do anything like that. But yeah I definitely want to rig up an SS line asap.

turbosax - thanks!

Also, I have a minor leak from my return line. I searched a little and people said you need to RTV the threads in the screws going to the pan.

 

[SOADweskey]

It's not heat that will cause the hose to fail. It is the preasure of the oil in the hose. The fire doesn't happen until the hose gives up where you clamped it and sprays motor oil on a glowing turbo exhaust housing.

In the case of this guys car he melted both of his fans, destroyed the silver insulation on his hood, and melted his bumper.

 

[MountainDew]

It's not heat that will cause the hose to fail. It is the preasure of the oil in the hose. The fire doesn't happen until the hose gives up where you clamped it and sprays motor oil on a glowing turbo exhaust housing.

In the case of this guys car he melted both of his fans, destroyed the silver insulation on his hood, and melted his bumper.

Hmm well I'll be sure to get that fixed asap.. I need to drain the oil pan anyways to try and fully fix the return line and a few other little things. I'll just make my SS line before I do that.

 

[kenamond]

Hmm well I'll be sure to get that fixed asap.. I need to drain the oil pan anyways to try and fully fix the return line and a few other little things. I'll just make my SS line before I do that.

Another thing you could do is disconnect the WGA arm from the lever on the turbine housing (if it's internally gated) so that you don't build boost. It'll be a slow pig with no boost, but you won't kill the turbo as easily if your oil supply is leaking badly and therefore at lower pressure in the turbo. That won't help with the potential fire under the hood, but it's easy to do.

Don't strip out the bolts that hold the oil return tube to the pan!! I've read many threads where folks struggle with leaks because of stripped bolts. The oil return is not under pressure (well whatever the crank case pressure is), so it doesn't have to be bolted as securely as a high pressure connection.

 

[MountainDew]

Another thing you could do is disconnect the WGA arm from the lever on the turbine housing (if it's internally gated) so that you don't build boost. It'll be a slow pig with no boost, but you won't kill the turbo as easily if your oil supply is leaking badly and therefore at lower pressure in the turbo. That won't help with the potential fire under the hood, but it's easy to do.

Don't strip out the bolts that hold the oil return tube to the pan!! I've read many threads where folks struggle with leaks because of stripped bolts. The oil return is not under pressure (well whatever the crank case pressure is), so it doesn't have to be bolted as securely as a high pressure connection.

My dad bolted the new return line on the 16g in.. hopefully that's not the case.

 

[kenamond]

My dad bolted the new return line on the 16g in.. hopefully that's not the case.

Actually, the problem is stripping the pan, not the bolts.