16g Installed - Need Opinions

[birdygoesboom]

I recently had my PR FMIC kit installed, B16g, and have a few questions regarding a Manual Boost Controller, and an air fuel tuning device.

I'm not one hundred percent knowledgeable on the tuning as of yet, but I have been doing my research.

With the 16g installed I want a MBC to turn down the boost to a level with moderate boost, like a stock level, and can turn it up a little higher when the need calls for it. I have only like 200 miles on the install, and haven't once gotten it past 6 lbs, so I am not sure about the fuel cut issue as of yet. I'm just curious on some recommendations. With the Hallman Pro RX for example, they talk about adjusting from a stock level, and what would that stock level be? Please any input would be appreciated.

As to the second part, I have noticed through my Glow Shift Air Fuel Ratio it seems to be running a little rich, and I want to get that issue solved right away. I have looked into the SAFC devices, and also the AEM UEGO Gauge which allows for great tuning with devices like the SAFC Neo and such. Do you have to have an upgraded ECU to run these devices, or does everything just get wired into something?

Overall I am looking for a recommendable MBC with a lower spring for stock boost levels, and able to be adjusted with maybe a stiffer spring for higher boost levels after more mods, and a tuning device to handle the air fuel rations and fuel compensations. Sorry for the lack of knowledge, and thanks for any further help with the situation.

 

[gofer]

a stock boost level is 9-12 psi depending on your DSM since they very using the stock boost control solenoid.
if you haven't gotten your 16g past 6psi your running WAY below what your motor NEEDS to run correctly, sounds like you've got a major boost leak somewhere or a few minor ones... since you did a turbo install and FMIC install id start at the TB and work your way down the line. if you need boost leak test (BLT) info do a search for boost leak testing in the forums you'll find all that you need and more... your car is running rich because you are only running 6psi. your cars ECU is putting in enough fuel with the stock fuel system for 12psi and still run safely and be fuel efficient. because your only running 6lbs of boost your A/F ratio is really really rich...
i think you've got your boost controller confused with your wastegates... boost controllers don't run a specific spring to control the boost, they're adjustable depending on what type you get. manual boost controllers (mbc) is a under the hood adjustment, pop the hood twist the knob, and your boost has been changed. electronic boost controllers (ebc) is a from the drivers seat change, just mess with the buttons on the ebc interface. wastegates run different spring sizes to control boost... the stock wastegate actuator (wga) on a 16g should hold somewhere around 10 - 12 psi depending on your exhaust setup and the spring can't be changed. the external wastegates springs can be changed out but running one would be overkill on a 16g... so without a boost controller your car should be seeing 12 lbs of boost, thats why the 6 lbs that your getting isn't right.

a good mbc is the hallman mbc... its not hard on the bank account, install is simple, and its a solid boost controller.

for tuning you can run an SAFC with the stock ecu (the wires just tap in) a wideband gage (AEM UEGO), and a pocketlogger.

before you turn that boost up BE SURE to get a bigger fuel pump and injectors!

 

[Flash]

The wastegate on the 16g is set at 10psi. So without a MBC hooked up you will run 10psi. I wouldn't worry about switching between boost levels. It all depends on how you drive your car. Switching between boost levels will need the tune altered.

Don't use your Glow Shift A/F gauge. It is a narrow band o2 and is completely useless. S-AFC is a piggyback to the existing ECU. The AEM UEGO is a wideband o2. Both devices you mentioned do not require the use of an upgraded ECU.

 

[toofast82]

NXS Motorsports manual boost controller works good and is $20
I recommend the Innovate LC-1 wideband which can be had on ebay new for $200 w/ gauge.
If you are running internal wastegate, you should be getting at least 9-10psi, if not there is most likely a boost leak
I prefer the Maft Gen2 for simple tuning devices under $300 over the SAFC. It has many more features on it as well as the "target A/F mapping" Ability to use 1g/2g/GM mafs. More tuning points, too. Like the SAFC, its ability to tune well is limited at about 650cc

 

[birdygoesboom]

The reason for the 6psi, is I am trying to be easy on it because of the fact that I just recently installed, and dont want to bang on the thing right away. I have done a boost leak test and everything is fine, that is not of the issue. I remember reading about the Hallman Pro RX and it had some sort of spring for a stock level adjustment, and a stiffer spring to adjust past higher levels than just stock. I may have misread, but I will look into it again. Also, I have a Wallbro 255 Fuel Pump, but still running on the stock 450's.

I definitely want to get rid of the glow shift a/f gauge, completely useless as stated.

After school today I am going to see if it goes past ten pounds, because you mentioned having the stock boost control solenoid and I do believe if that's the one by the firewall that the lines from the intake ran too, I have the line directly connected to my afpr. According to this, I shouldn't be able to get past ten at all. Thanks again, and keep the information coming. So far i've got that I dont need any ecu work to have a SAFC and the UEGO Wideband, and I'm going to get jump started on that after some more research and recommendations.

 

[xioca]

I definitely want to get rid of the glow shift a/f gauge, completely useless as stated.

Sell it on eBay and make some money.

 

[birdygoesboom]

So in regards to the boost controller, I just purchased a Hallman Pro RX kit to solve that issue. Also before, I was talking about the ceramaic balls that vary with the different boost levels, just to clear that up.

 

[birdygoesboom]

So, after school yesterday I took the car for a drive, haven't even once gotten on this thing yet, and I was kinda surprised. Whoever mentioned the 10-12 PSI, needs to be more clear here, because I can willingly go way past 12 PSI, with a Big 16g and no MBC. In a second gear pull, it was up to my max 10-12 PSI pretty quick, and I didn't want to get any further with it, but due to the half throttle I was putting on, I feel more boost could have been accounted for. As stated earlier too, I'm not sure which boost solenoid controls this level, but I do believe I have taken one off, the one that runs from intake to solenoid to fuel regulator, and I have the vac line running right to my afpr. We'll see how this one comes about.

 

[Splitpi]

you should connect a vacuum line that goes from a boost source (i.e. a nipple on your j-pipe or a T on the BOV line) to your waste gate . If you have that done already then your waste gate is faulty. The 16g wastegate will open at ~9 - 11 psi. and you shouldn't be moving enough air to be boost creaping at that level. In which case replace the waste gate actuator.

Also if you are running a Wally 255 fuel pump with out an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (i.e. aeromotive or fuelab kit), your most likely having fuel overruns at part to low throttle.

 

[Richrx_tsi]

You can run 14psi without any any tune or fuel upgrades and not have any worries.

 

[birdygoesboom]

I do believe I had all the correct lines connected. I wasn't going to use the nipple on the J pipe because I have a MBC on the way and was thinking I would use the J-pipe nipple for the MBC. I do have a 255, and I DO have an AFPR, please read bio. I guess I need to choose my words a little wiser. My wastegate is setup, all vac lines connected. I will double check after school / work but I am pretty sure everything is wired correctly.

How often do brand new turbos comes with faulty wastegates?

 

[birdygoesboom]

you should connect a vacuum line that goes from a boost source (i.e. a nipple on your j-pipe or a T on the BOV line) to your waste gate . If you have that done already then your waste gate is faulty. The 16g wastegate will open at ~9 - 11 psi. and you shouldn't be moving enough air to be boost creaping at that level. In which case replace the waste gate actuator.

Also if you are running a Wally 255 fuel pump with out an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (i.e. aeromotive or fuelab kit), your most likely having fuel overruns at part to low throttle.

What made wastegate come into the conversion? Was talking about boost solenoids and my afpr?

 

[rstchris]

You should hook that one back up, the one they were refering to is under the MAF and T's between the WGA and the J pipe/compressor. If you want a bit less boost for now you can just take the solenoid off the line. Don't unplug it though cause you will throw a MIL.

 

[birdygoesboom]

Not so sure on the will throw a MIL. And i guess I will have to do some more playing after I get out of here, hook that solenoid back up and see if there is any difference in anything.

 

[Splitpi]

What made wastegate come into the conversion? Was talking about boost solenoids and my afpr?

Maybe I miss read you but you stated:

because I can willingly go way past 12 PSI, with a Big 16g and no MBC.

As mentioned previously you should never be able to go past 9-11 psi on the 16g if everything is in working order. Your wastegate is not hooked up or is not working properly if you have the issue you stated above.

 

[birdygoesboom]

Like i said too, I should have chosen better words, my fault. I could have (maybe) willingly gone past it seemed.

So let me throw a few things at you and see how this goes.

If I shouldn't be able to pass the 9-12 PSI from the Big 16g, does that mean I shouldn't have a problem with fuel cut at all, if it was to stay under the 12 PSI?

Is there a chance the solenoid I took off located by the firewall the runs from intake-solenoid-fuel regulator could be causing a problem with that disconnected?

Also, I am currently waiting for my Hallman PRO RX to come, and will be playing with these lines a little more once that comes and will be able to do a little more work with this on the weekend.

10 hour school days and 8 hour work days FTW

 

[juanpac0]

Like i said too, I should have chosen better words, my fault. I could have (maybe) willingly gone past it seemed.

So let me throw a few things at you and see how this goes.

If I shouldn't be able to pass the 9-12 PSI from the Big 16g, does that mean I shouldn't have a problem with fuel cut at all, if it was to stay under the 12 PSI?

Is there a chance the solenoid I took off located by the firewall the runs from intake-solenoid-fuel regulator could be causing a problem with that disconnected?

Also, I am currently waiting for my Hallman PRO RX to come, and will be playing with these lines a little more once that comes and will be able to do a little more work with this on the weekend.

10 hour school days and 8 hour work days FTW

You'll likely only hit fuel cut around 15-16psi and up, so don't worry too much about hitting fuel cut around 12psi, the only reason you'd hit fuel cut around 12psi is if you had a boost leak, and a pretty big one at that.

 

[birdygoesboom]

Thanks for the information. I am going to get some more time to drive it once I get out of school, and once the weekend comes around is when its hammer time I'll get back to this after some driving and experimenting with these solenoids, please, anyone with feedback or similar problems feel free to contribute, I and others probably wouldn't mind. Thanks

 

[birdygoesboom]

Alright so haven't had time to mess with the car due to projects and midterms for college, last semester and it's hectic. Just wanted to update that I've received the Hallman Pro RX, AEM UEGO Wideband O2, and SAFC Neo, and just order PTE 550's as well. Monday I am going to have time to do the Hallman Pro RX install, and am going to be able to pull the test runs then. Once I have everything solved I plan on taking it on a trip to a state-local shop , and have a couple things installed, and some tuning , and after all that, some pulls on the dyno to see what she's got . Get Back Soon

 

[rush2252]

somebody correct me please but ive always assumed a MBC couldnt adjust boost levels below the stock wastegate pressure? I was always told to run from the j pipe nipple or compressor housing if you want to run the stock amount

Kolby

 

[juanpac0]

somebody correct me please but ive always assumed a MBC couldnt adjust boost levels below the stock wastegate pressure? I was always told to run from the j pipe nipple or compressor housing if you want to run the stock amount

Kolby

You are correct, if you're going to be running at the stock boost level the best thing to do would be to leave the MBC off for the time being.

 

[birdygoesboom]

I am not going to be running at stock boost level, I have the Hallman Pro RX installed, and with the light spring that comes in it, I am at about 16 pounds with no spikes, no creeping, and solid boost. Hasn't been a problem as of yet. I was in the process of making my stainless steel return line for the turbo and the stupid bolts that hold the an fitting on it, was leaking oil through the bolts because it didn't seal right on the inside. Hoping to get there after work today, pull it out and do some test runs. The runs I got on it before were alright, seemed like everything was working and I was at an unlimited mark of boost, and the MBC was actually working. (Referring to having a faulty wastegate or faulty connections). I'll keep informed