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Ideas for fast 420A...minus a turbo!

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jwreed09

15+ Year Contributor
98
0
Jul 7, 2003
California (northern ky), Kentucky
Hey guys...i have a 96 eclipse rs. i wanna build it to where it's the fastest NA around here. Here is some ideas i have:
Exhaust:
Megan Muffler, Test pipe, SSAutoChrome Headers, Custom 2.5" piping
Intake:
Injen CAI, Modern Performance Throttle Body, P&P Intake Manifold
Ignition:
MSD Wires, NGK Plugs, MSD/Screamin Demons Coil, MSD Ignition System, MSD tach adapter, MSD Ignition Retard
Engine:
Unorthodox UPD, AEM Cam gears, Crower Cams, JE Forged Pistons w/ rings, Crower Rods, Head P&P, 2.4 Avenger Crank (Bottom End), Radiator, valve job, springs, lash adjusters, rocker arms, and oversized valves, bearings, custom ground wires, Urethane Engine Mounts,
Fuel: (once over 200hp)
Walbro Fuel Pump, Accel Fuel Injectors, AEM Fuel Regulator,
Gauges:
S-AFC, AEM Plug N Play computer, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Voltmeter, Air/Fuel, Eurolite Cluster Gauge,
Suspension:
Camber Kit, Eibach Sportlines, KYB GR2 Shocks, Sway Bar, Strut Bar, 16" GS Rims
Drivetrain:
B&M Short Shifter, ACT clutch kit, lightened flywheel, Shifter Bushings

What do you all think? What are some products I can get now for some big hp gains? I'm not lookin to get a turbo as of now! I think about gettin a turbo all the time. But I just can't do it. So please do not consider that option! I am lookin for good ideas, and anyone to correct me on anything i have. i also lookin for forums on the bottom end crank kit. i've heard a lot about them but i wanna know what's really up. it seems the bottom end will be the biggest hp gain. What kind of valve job should i get? PLEASE HELP...i am prolly even considering nitrous once i completely rebuild my engine. but we are not going to talk about that at this point cause i wanna think ALL MOTOR POWER!
 
Blah blah blah. Do you have all that or want all that? :rolleyes:

The fastest documented, reliable, believable accepted quarter mile ET for an all motor 2GNT is 15 seconds flat. If you want 200hp (and the notoriety of being the first to do so), if you want 14sec ETs (and the same notoriety), I'd say your list, along with lots of practice and knowledgeable tuning, will be a good start. The engine build and tuning is going to do you the most good for 200hp aims, but driver skill will do wonders, regardless, for your ETs.

Good luck to you and don't lose the excitement. You're looking down a hard road filled with many a naysayer and ramen dinner imo. Take it from one who's about a year and a half farther down the road. It's no picnic unless it's what you really love and want to do. :thumb: :talon:
 
all that list is just a wishlist as of now. and the 14's would be a wish to get to as well, i guess to the 14's with those mods would have to be to use nitrous. i'm just tryin to get ideas in and i know if i didn't include the part, "i do not wanna go turbo, so don't type it" then i would of had a bunch of forums sayin get a turbo kit! but i wanna make my n/t fast as hell goin all motor. so i mean if i can get any help or ideas on stuff i'd appreciate it alot. i mean i'm still a beginner and lookin into engine modifications.
 
jwreed09 said:
Hey guys...i have a 96 eclipse rs. i wanna build it to where it's the fastest NA around here. Here is some ideas i have:
Exhaust:
Megan Muffler, Test pipe, SSAutoChrome Headers, Custom 2.5" piping
Intake:
Injen CAI, Modern Performance Throttle Body, P&P Intake Manifold
Ignition:
MSD Wires, NGK Plugs, MSD/Screamin Demons Coil, MSD Ignition System, MSD tach adapter, MSD Ignition Retard
Engine:
Unorthodox UPD, AEM Cam gears, Crower Cams, JE Forged Pistons w/ rings, Crower Rods, Head P&P, 2.4 Avenger Crank (Bottom End), Radiator, valve job, springs, lash adjusters, rocker arms, and oversized valves, bearings, custom ground wires, Urethane Engine Mounts,
Fuel: (once over 200hp)
Walbro Fuel Pump, Accel Fuel Injectors, AEM Fuel Regulator,
Gauges:
S-AFC, AEM Plug N Play computer, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Voltmeter, Air/Fuel, Eurolite Cluster Gauge,
Suspension:
Camber Kit, Eibach Sportlines, KYB GR2 Shocks, Sway Bar, Strut Bar, 16" GS Rims
Drivetrain:
B&M Short Shifter, ACT clutch kit, lightened flywheel, Shifter Bushings

What do you all think? What are some products I can get now for some big hp gains? I'm not lookin to get a turbo as of now! I think about gettin a turbo all the time. But I just can't do it. So please do not consider that option! I am lookin for good ideas, and anyone to correct me on anything i have. i also lookin for forums on the bottom end crank kit. i've heard a lot about them but i wanna know what's really up. it seems the bottom end will be the biggest hp gain. What kind of valve job should i get? PLEASE HELP...i am prolly even considering nitrous once i completely rebuild my engine. but we are not going to talk about that at this point cause i wanna think ALL MOTOR POWER!

Whatever your on, i want 2 :shhh:

first problem, your gonna need to figure out the cams and compression you want to run. Crower 2's or 3's. your gonna wanna go with 10.5 or 12.5 compression, depending on if its going to be your daily driver. 10.5 would be best for the daily driver. 12.5 would be harder to tune and not so street friendly.

next problem, your gauges: a S-AFC and the AEM EMS are not gauges first off. secondly, the AEM EMS isnt made for our cars, but several guys have rigged it up for our cars. third, a S-AFC would be redundant if you have the EMS. plus the EMS costs big $$$.

last problem i see, ACT doesnt make a clutch for us, your gonna wanna go with Clutchmaster or Spec clutch.

sorry guys, i actually answered this without being an asshole, but he just seemed so excited, i didnt want to crush his dreams OMG
 
hey guys. i understand where you all are coming from and all. and about the clutch i could of sworn act made one, maybe it was for the gst/gsx. i'll have to look into it again. but, lets just forget about what i have for my "wish list," and i appreciate your alls help. in away no you weren't rude about answering my question, but in a way some of the dream is shattered to reach 200hp all motor. but that's kind of a good thing to realize whether than hoping and all. but, i've been reading on 2gnt.com that with the 2.4 bottom end you can reach 250 easily. now that the "wish list" is gone, i need help on a new one. can anyone help me out on gettin to an extremely fast 420A. i'm willing to save my money to buy stuff, i just don't wanna go turbo yet. i mean i guess it's kind of an inspiration when ya beat a v6 and they thing your turbo'd. i know if i go turbo i can beat v8's. yeah that'd be awesome, but i don't wanna go that route yet. please help me build a faster 420A engine. my mods so far: injen cai, msd wires, ngk plugs, unorthodox udp, test pipe, and a shiny can.
 
jwreed09 said:
hey guys. i understand where you all are coming from and all. and about the clutch i could of sworn act made one, maybe it was for the gst/gsx. i'll have to look into it again. but, lets just forget about what i have for my "wish list," and i appreciate your alls help. in away no you weren't rude about answering my question, but in a way some of the dream is shattered to reach 200hp all motor. but that's kind of a good thing to realize whether than hoping and all. but, i've been reading on 2gnt.com that with the 2.4 bottom end you can reach 250 easily. now that the "wish list" is gone, i need help on a new one. can anyone help me out on gettin to an extremely fast 420A. i'm willing to save my money to buy stuff, i just don't wanna go turbo yet. i mean i guess it's kind of an inspiration when ya beat a v6 and they thing your turbo'd. i know if i go turbo i can beat v8's. yeah that'd be awesome, but i don't wanna go that route yet. please help me build a faster 420A engine. my mods so far: injen cai, msd wires, ngk plugs, unorthodox udp, test pipe, and a shiny can.

well, lets clear one thing up, 250hp can not easily be made, even if you have a 2.4L. Now if you really wanna hit the 200hp mark, it will be much easier to obtain if you have the 2.4 swap. The list you had was pretty good. i was just correcting your few mistakes. ACT makes a clutch for the turbo models, not our cars. if you really wanna put the money into building a 200hp NA and are really gonna do it, then go for it. but we see alot of people come on here saying the same thing, without really understanding what it takes, then its all just talk and they dont do anything.
 
thats cool man. i appreciate it, especially your understanding that i'm really a beginner still. let's possibly change it around though....how much horsepower can i expect with the necessary. lets say: cai, exhaust, test pipe, headers, msd ignition, screamin demon ignition, plugs, wires, pulley, cam gears, cams, throttle body, port and polished intake manifold. let's say i even decide to go with a 75 shot of nitrous....what am i lookin at then?
 
Dammit, Josh what have I told you about bench racing? :p

Haha, it's Matt man, and I'm glad to see you're trying to learn your stuff about our motors. But one thing that you'll realize (as I quickly did) is that 1) though we'd like to believe it, the :dsm: motors we've got in our cars just aren't as potent as the big red (H) 4-bangers. Sure an Acura RSX-S or Integra Type R can make easily 200hp right out of the box but our motors just aren't as potent as theirs. You can't make butter with a toothpick, man. Even some of the fastest all motor 4 bangers in professional drag racing are pushing maybe 230-250hp and thats a big stretch.

I would say that if you build your head, and throw all those bolt ons onto there, you might be pushing around 170 hp. 2) You've got to realize that it isn't always about horsepower numbers. My buddy Brandon had a Sunfire GT with a revamped 2.4 liter Quad 4 that was pumping out maybe 200hp (but this was with shaved weight, built block and everything) and I watched with my own eyes when he beat a 260hp Mustang GT.

Me, myself, I kept right along side (did not beat) a Civic Hatch with a built (block) B16 with i/h/e. I found out later the kid didn't know dick about driving but that just goes to proove my point.

Alot of the time, it comes down to the size/weight of the car, (and the driver, in my case, LoL), driving talent, how old the motor might be and what kind of condition its in. But more often than not, it comes down to power-to-weight ratio and driving skills. There's a lot more but i'm tired and don't feel like going on

Well I hope I at least made sense here, let alone helped. :dsm:
 
NAeclipse said:
Dammit, Josh what have I told you about bench racing? :p

Haha, it's Matt man, and I'm glad to see you're trying to learn your stuff about our motors. But one thing that you'll realize (as I quickly did) is that 1) though we'd like to believe it, the :dsm: motors we've got in our cars just aren't as potent as the big red (H) 4-bangers. Sure an Acura RSX-S or Integra Type R can make easily 200hp right out of the box but our motors just aren't as potent as theirs. You can't make butter with a toothpick, man. Even some of the fastest all motor 4 bangers in professional drag racing are pushing maybe 230-250hp and thats a big stretch.

I would say that if you build your head, and throw all those bolt ons onto there, you might be pushing around 170 hp. 2) You've got to realize that it isn't always about horsepower numbers. My buddy Brandon had a Sunfire GT with a revamped 2.4 liter Quad 4 that was pumping out maybe 200hp (but this was with shaved weight, built block and everything) and I watched with my own eyes when he beat a 260hp Mustang GT.

Me, myself, I kept right along side (did not beat) a Civic Hatch with a built (block) B16 with i/h/e. I found out later the kid didn't know dick about driving but that just goes to proove my point.

Alot of the time, it comes down to the size/weight of the car, (and the driver, in my case, LoL), driving talent, how old the motor might be and what kind of condition its in. But more often than not, it comes down to power-to-weight ratio and driving skills. There's a lot more but i'm tired and don't feel like going on

Well I hope I at least made sense here, let alone helped. :dsm:

ummm we dont have :dsm: engines, we have chrysler engines
 
GSGoinFast said:
ummm we dont have :dsm: engines, we have chrysler engines
Amen. :laser:

And there aren't "several" people with EMS running on 420As, there are more like two and they both had a shop install it and tune it. I'm die hard all motor too, but if you're going to spend $1000 on the EMS, pay a shop to install it (assuming a miraculous 20 hrs labor at a an even more miraculous $50/hr), and then have it all dialed in from scratch in another 10 hours labor (at the same magic rates) because you have found the God of 2GNT tuning, you're looking at $2500 just for some brand name bullshit that's a complete waste of both your time and money. Especially on a street car, and even more so, on an all motor DSM which won't even be pushing 200hp at the crank. You get to the point where you're pummelling the internals with massive amounts of fuel and air (turbo) and you have to work harder to keep the car street legal than you do to maintain it, then you think about EMS imo.

I admire your neurotic excitement over this goal, man. It makes me feel like a bastard for having turbo plans for the tax return (Don't worry. I'll see about making some records first.), but if you really want to do the all motor thing, and do it right, here's some food for thought...


*Using nitrous is not all motor. You can't even have the lines in your car if you want any credibility in your all motor claims. There are many places you can hide Pete, and people know this.

*Stretch that dollar as far as you can. Buy used parts if possible (bolt ons mainly, not internals). Buying that name brand intake or header will just be a waste of money. If you have a used Pacesetter header and an eBay intake (like me) and otherwise build the ever lovin' shit out of your car and come up at 195hp, then I would suggest trying a higher quality part to squeeze those extra couple ponies out of the stable, but only after you've tuned it within an inch of its life. Better to wait and see, then waste your money on brand names.

*2.4 swap is a viable option for big, all motor power, but I wouldn't recommend it to you at this time. This swap requires a decent amount of custom fabrication and tracking down parts from a handful of different cars. On top of that, you have to do some tweaking to get your ECU to read the crank signal and fire the injectors/plugs in the right order. This is definitely not a route for the new-to-2GNT-tuner imo. Conasider this; you can build a monster of a 2L and learn your trade there. When you know what you're doing, there may by an install kit with all the custom bits needed for the swap available to you. You can dive into that project confident that you're not going to be seeing any surprises you can't handle and more than likely be able to sell your built 2L block to offset some of the cost.

*The goal of getting into the 14s all motor has not been achieved yet. Well, it has, but it was done with a 2L and a hacked tranny on slicks. That car is dead and parted out. There is no all motor 2GNT in the 14s right now. Period. 2.4L is still an emerging technology and there are more in pieces than there are on the road, let alone running 14s ETs. I mean, after all, don't you think that news would spread like wildfire in DSM communities like this one? You bet it would. You need to beat a 15 flat.

*I'm not going to go searching the 2GNT archives again for this site to share Daniel's dyno numbers, but the guy with the 15 ET has also posted the best all motor dyno slip over at 2GNT. I'm thinking he put down 170ish to the wheels. He's definitely close to both goals. If you want to see what his set up is for some ideas, take a look at my profile on the National DSM Registry (link in profile here). His set up is almost identical to mine.


Don't lose that fire kid. You may not be the fastest car on the road, but you will learn a shitpot of information about these cars. Information that you can use on any car, whether turbo, nitrous or solid fuel booster rocket-powered. (Okay. I lied about that last one.) You're going to need to be handy with the tools and sharp with the tuning if you want to get there without blowing shit up. Stick it out. You can do it. Any fool can slap a $2500 turbo kit on their 2GNT and crack off a 14 second ET. They do it all the time. How many stock displacement 2GNTers can claim the same? Only one so far, and that car is dead.

Food for thought. Do with it what you will. This ends my allotment of time at Toonerz for the evening. :cool: :talon: :thumbdown
 
wow...i have had an amazing time reading all this. trust me i appreciate all your alls time in helping me out. i knew in a way it'd be kinda impossible but not completely to run a 14, well that "a" is for that one fourteen man who did it up. mad props to ya man. but i just listed some stuff to get me there. i really wanna go all motor cause there isn't to many turbo cars around here anyways in northern ky...and if they are turbo'd all they know is the bills they put into it and the brand name of the part they got. it's bull! i wanna be able to learn, and i can learn so much from you guys here at dsmtuners.com! mad props to ya'll and i appreciate ya'lls help a lot. if ya'll can help me out in anyway in giving me the littlest hp i'd appreciate it! i actually went out today and applied to get a 2500 dollar loan for a custom turbo kit cause i felt like everyone was bustin me down for wantin to go 200 hp and 14's at the quarter and figured to just get a turbo, and the other money to get my car out of the shop. but after reading the last few forums i was amazed. so if i get the loan, whatever left over from gettin the clipse out is going to all motor! i mean i'm still at the basic list. so say i have 1400 to spend what should i get? and remember i've already got injen cai, test pipe, muffler, plugs, wires, pulley. i'm thinking custom piping, headers off ebay ( i think i read the ssautochrome's were the best to get,) cam gears (what brand?) cams, and maybe msd ignition with screamin demon coil? how's that sound? keep me posted guys...and even if i'm wrong i enjoy ya'll tellin me whats up and learning. take easy guys...peace
 
Josh, keep it up, man. You'll get there long before me, but hey, I'll be proud :thumb:

GSGoinFast said:
ummm we dont have :dsm: engines, we have chrysler engines

Did that have anything to do with what this thread is about? :mad:

Okay, GSGoinFast, you got me, but I was actually just more than less referring to the car that its in.

Anyways, :laser: :talon: :dsm:, if you look back and re-read, (as far as what I wrote goes), what's the difference? It's a completely moot point to what I was talking about and the point I was trying to make.

GSGoinFast, I think you seem like a pretty cool guy, I like the setup on your car
(sleeper), and you seem like you really know what you're talking about where our rides are concerned. But maybe you could think about sticking to topic next time instead of dumping on people. :shhh:
 
NAeclipse said:
Did that have anything to do with what this thread is about? :mad:

not a thing

NAeclipse said:
Anyways, :laser: :talon: :dsm:, if you look back and re-read, (as far as what I wrote goes), what's the difference? It's a completely moot point to what I was talking about and the point I was trying to make.

it doesnt make too much of a difference, im just proud that i made this "crappy neon motor" able to stick with the infamous 4g63's

NAeclipse said:
GSGoinFast, I think you seem like a pretty cool guy, I like the setup on your car (sleeper)

Thanks, i was going for the sleeper look, thus the gauges in the bezel.

NAeclipse said:
and you seem like you really know what you're talking about where our rides are concerned. But maybe you could think about sticking to topic next time instead of dumping on people. :shhh:

just extinguishing my bordom by pointing out pety differences. :thumb:

and to jwreed09,
research all ya can. seach 2gnt.com till your eyes bleed. if i have nothing to do in my study halls(yes plural :D and no i usually dont have anything to do) i can always waste my day searching 2gnt. those guys know there stuff.

as for a 2.4L swap for you, ive been researching about our cars and modding mine for over a year now, ive been ripping apart engines, honing them, putting them back together, all that stuff for a while now in auto class, and i still wouldnt touch the 2.4 swap. im too intimidated by it. but eventually, we all hope a kit will come, and then we can do it. and if not, im going to college next year majoring in automotive technology, so hopefully after i graduate i will laugh at the 2.4 swap as childs play, althou not likely. :cool: just keep at it if your serious about it and im sure you will do some good things with your car. with that $1400, heres what i would get:

Howell Top end kit... get 12's, or 16's cams, probably 16's if your still pushing for 200hp. that kit will give you cams, cam gears, and all the valvetrain stuff you need to use those more aggressive cams. thats about $1000. that should take care of all of your money after the header and custom piping. next, take a dremel, and invest some time into porting and polishing that intake mani. send your TB off to howell to get it bored to 55mm($100), or another place will bore it out to 57mm, but i cant remember who does it. that should give you some good power gains, and suck your funds dry as you will find your car will always do. when you spend all that money, come back to us when you get more, and we'll help ya out some more. :thumb: good luck
 
good idea...the top end kit sounds good! but i've also been thinking. ok...the car is in the shop now because the timing belt slipt off after the first time when the mechanic fixed the timing for me when i replaced my timing belt. i was off a mark, and he said he had to check the valves to see if they were bent or not. well he said the samething today cause i was gettin prices from him on certain things i'd like to do, and he was like "well lets concentrate on the matter now, we still have to see if your valves are bent!" everytime he says that i get skeered thinking what if, and that'll set me back. do you guys think they are bent? i mean i was drivin on the highway and the belt wandered it's way toward the engine and wore down to a 1/4." so could the valves have been bent? and if so, should i just get stock ones in or aftermarket?
 
jwreed09 said:
good idea...the top end kit sounds good! but i've also been thinking. ok...the car is in the shop now because the timing belt slipt off after the first time when the mechanic fixed the timing for me when i replaced my timing belt. i was off a mark, and he said he had to check the valves to see if they were bent or not. well he said the samething today cause i was gettin prices from him on certain things i'd like to do, and he was like "well lets concentrate on the matter now, we still have to see if your valves are bent!" everytime he says that i get skeered thinking what if, and that'll set me back. do you guys think they are bent? i mean i was drivin on the highway and the belt wandered it's way toward the engine and wore down to a 1/4." so could the valves have been bent? and if so, should i just get stock ones in or aftermarket?

well if you bent valves, you would have to see the extent of the damage. a good note to that is, if the head is off, and the valves arent bent, you can get the top end kit and install it now. you will have to replace the timing belt, so might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. also, if its just the valves that are damaged, you can get some ss ones. keep us updated.
 
i will most definetely let ya'll know what's up as soon as i found out today. hopefully i don't have bent valves at this point, cause i don't have the money. i'll find out about that loan today too. i should be able to get the loan though, i used my car as collateral. haha, i can make the payments easily. but i'll let ya'll know what's up.
 
Josh, I'm stealin your car if you get that Howell top-end kit. :D Keep up the good work man and make sure you hit me up when/if you get it.

"it doesnt make too much of a difference, im just proud that i made this "crappy neon motor" able to stick with the infamous 4g63's"

:confused: Hey, wait a tic, i didn't say anything about our motors being crappy. I love my ride. With just and intake & exhaust I've really suprised some people (V6 Stangs, Grand Am GTs, and LOTS of Civics). :thumb:

"Thanks, i was going for the sleeper look, thus the gauges in the bezel."

Yeah I'm planning on going the same route. In my opinion, my car looks jut fine how it is right now. As soon as I get my header & UDP, the intake mani & t.b. are getting P&P and then I dk what I'm doing. Maybe building the head, maybe getting some spray, or maybe both. GSGoinFast, did you have to upgrade anything besides your plugs and wires when you got your spray? Did you get your air/fuel controller when you got your spray or did you get it after? I know the fuel controller would help, because my car is running rich as it is, but would you recommend getting the AFC at the same time as the spray?

Sorry Josh, but rather than create a new thread I thought I would just ask a question in this one. :dsm:
 
hey guys...well i called the bank and the way i see it, is that i didn't get the loan b/c i'm 19 and have no credit. how in the world is a 19 year old suppose to get any credit? anyways...i just called the mechanic too...he hasn't gotten to my car yet. he's gonna try and get her in today or tomorrow. i asked how much it gonna cost if the valve was bent...and he said he'd have to take the head off and depending on how it looked he may just send the head to a machine shop and have it machined for $400. so i dunno...this sucks now cause i really needed that loan!
hey matt it's cool startin a new topic onto this one man. i don't care. haha. i'm tryin to get rid of my altezza's b/c i wanna go sleeper too. but i think as soon as i get some more performance work done, maybe by january i'll get the car sent to get painted, and try and find some stock rims. i still haven't got my gauges installed yet...i'm making really good money at this job now. about 1400 a month, but bills are killing me! another one of my friends just got an eclipse...it's a 99 rs. he was wanting to go turbo, but we were talking and stuff and i was talkin about a lot of stuff that have been posted on this forum and all, and he wants to go all motor now to. we made the decision that you could get mad props if ya got ya all motor eclipse into the low or mid 15's. haha. and i told him it was easy for any fool with a turbo to get into the 14's. i can't remember who said that, but i read it either in this thread or somewhere else. haha. anyways take it easy dsmtuners! let's make this thread long about everything! haha. peace
 
NAeclipse said:
Josh, I'm stealin your car if you get that Howell top-end kit. :D Keep up the good work man and make sure you hit me up when/if you get it.

"it doesnt make too much of a difference, im just proud that i made this "crappy neon motor" able to stick with the infamous 4g63's"

:confused: Hey, wait a tic, i didn't say anything about our motors being crappy. I love my ride. With just and intake & exhaust I've really suprised some people (V6 Stangs, Grand Am GTs, and LOTS of Civics). :thumb:

"Thanks, i was going for the sleeper look, thus the gauges in the bezel."

Yeah I'm planning on going the same route. In my opinion, my car looks jut fine how it is right now. As soon as I get my header & UDP, the intake mani & t.b. are getting P&P and then I dk what I'm doing. Maybe building the head, maybe getting some spray, or maybe both. GSGoinFast, did you have to upgrade anything besides your plugs and wires when you got your spray? Did you get your air/fuel controller when you got your spray or did you get it after? I know the fuel controller would help, because my car is running rich as it is, but would you recommend getting the AFC at the same time as the spray?

Sorry Josh, but rather than create a new thread I thought I would just ask a question in this one. :dsm:

i know you didnt call it a crappy motor, the turbo guys call it a crappy neon motor all the time, i was reffering to them.

The only thing i really upgraded besides what i already had was the plugs for the nitrous. i had intake exaust and udp. i was running stock heat range plugs, so i only kept it at a 65 shot untill i got my colder plugs. then i bumped it to a 75 shot. I got the S-AFC after i got the nitrous, and you dont need to get them at the same time. hell my S-AFC isnt even tuned for nitrous yet, i still havnt gotten it on the dyno to. i just switch it to the other datafile which has all the corrections set at 0. i just tuned it for NA right now. but my nitrous isnt working too well right now, apparently im draining too much power from the TPS wire, so im setting off a CEL. ive had the same set up for 3 months now, and it just started setting off CEL's now. so i duno i gotta work that out. but other then that you really dont have to do much to the engine to run a 75 shot. its a beautiful thing and strikes fear into the hearts of all the people in my school. they dont realize "NOS" doesnt make you automatically run 10's. go figure :confused: . i asked this kid with a 04 Audi S4, which is a V6 twin turbo AWD, if he wanted to race me, and he said "no way dude, you got NOS". bwahaha i just laughed and said ok and walked away. LOL
 
GSGoinFast said:
i know you didnt call it a crappy motor, the turbo guys call it a crappy neon motor all the time, i was reffering to them.

The only thing i really upgraded besides what i already had was the plugs for the nitrous. i had intake exaust and udp. i was running stock heat range plugs, so i only kept it at a 65 shot untill i got my colder plugs. then i bumped it to a 75 shot. I got the S-AFC after i got the nitrous, and you dont need to get them at the same time. hell my S-AFC isnt even tuned for nitrous yet, i still havnt gotten it on the dyno to. i just switch it to the other datafile which has all the corrections set at 0. i just tuned it for NA right now. but my nitrous isnt working too well right now, apparently im draining too much power from the TPS wire, so im setting off a CEL. ive had the same set up for 3 months now, and it just started setting off CEL's now. so i duno i gotta work that out. but other then that you really dont have to do much to the engine to run a 75 shot. its a beautiful thing and strikes fear into the hearts of all the people in my school. they dont realize "NOS" doesnt make you automatically run 10's. go figure :confused: . i asked this kid with a 04 Audi S4, which is a V6 twin turbo AWD, if he wanted to race me, and he said "no way dude, you got NOS". bwahaha i just laughed and said ok and walked away. LOL

Thanks man, that's valuable info. :thumb: Spray is probably gonna be the route I go after I get my intake & throttle body P&P. And just to be safe i'm at least gonna upgrade the fuel system along with the ignition/coil/distributor. Just to be safe. But it is good to know that our motors aren't scared of the juice. :D

It just sounds like the people at your school watch too many movies. Did you ask anyone at your school if they have an SR20 swap in their Civic? :laugh:

:dsm:
 
jwreed09 said:
we made the decision that you could get mad props if ya got ya all motor eclipse into the low or mid 15's
You get props from other 2GNTers who know what it takes to pull that off. Most people just laugh at it as a waste of time and resources. #### them, though. To each his own.

jwreed09 said:
i told him it was easy for any fool with a turbo to get into the 14's. i can't remember who said that, but i read it either in this thread or somewhere else.
You read it here because I said it. :D

If you have the head off, whether for inspection or repair, you might look into getting a simple, three angle valve job done on it. If you have the scratch, pick up some CROWER CAMS. Stage 1 will be a nice little bump in performance, but stage 2 would be preferred for a street car. To go stage 2, you need to invest in PT Cruiser lifters/lash adjusters. They're better able to handle the more aggressive profile. If nothing else, go with the PTC bits and gears. This will give you some play with the stock cams to get a feel for tuning the bigger bumpsticks later on.

A header will be a nice way to round out your breathing system. While not worth much of anything by themselves, they are an important part of a comprehensive exhaust build up. A DIY port job is good too, but you have to be careful in doing it, that you don't remove something you need and end up with reversion issues in the head. A good place to get some ideas is FierroRacing.com. Eddy is a good guy and post plenty of pictures and tips for DIY stuff. And, just because I like to brag sometimes, you can check out my head and intake mani there. He's a big name in the Neon community and has been porting for years upon years.

Have fun.
 
any you guys know where i can get some valves for cheap? maybe used? i saw some on howell for 240...i mean i'd buy them but i don't think i have the money. but i'm prolly gonna end up buyin them if i can get the bills straightened out and just leave my car at the shop til next week. it just been a bad week with money. i might be gettin a part job at quick stop. haha. woo hoo!
i'm gonna check that fiero racing site out also. i need as much hp as i can get. i know that it's gonna take alot of money, but with your alls patience and help, i'm gonna try my best to get there!
Nitrous..that'd be an amazing boost. It's kinda like a turbo except it doesn't have the continuous boost. but, a turbo most people want it for the boost and the psst, nitrous most people want it for the extra boost when needed and the purge. haha.
i also drove be the shop again tonight. the mechanic still doesn't have the car in the shop! it's makin me mad, but i guess if i can't get it out til next week...o well then. i think when i do get it out, i'm gonna get the custom piping which is only gonna cost me 40 bucks cause i know the guy, and get the ssautochrome headers, and then save up for the top end kit! well take it easy guys, i'm outtie for a bit!
 
hey guys it's me again...i guess i can't get enough of this site. i kind of had a ? on my mind. how much do you all think a normal mechanic would charge to put new valves in and all that good stuff? i'm talkin about after my timing belt slipped off.
 
hey guys...i still haven't heard anything about the car yet. it's still in the shop. i called the mechanic a couple days ago and told him i'd go ahead and order the ss valves, but he was like well let's wait and see if their bent. duh! their most def bent, i mean cause of our engines being an interference engine if the timing belt snaps the pistons and valves collide. anyone know of some cheap valves? i've found some on howell and another site. but anyways to the point of this....i was lookin on howell cause i figured i'd look into the top end performance kit. but i was thinking i could go ahead and get a majority of the internals done at once. so i looked into the master performance rebuild. what kind of specs should i get? Remember I'm going all motor...
Cams: 10,12,14,16
Pistons: 8.5,10.5,12.5
Bore size:.020 over,standard,.030,.040
Main Bearing size:standard,25mm,50mm
Rod Bearing size:standard,25mm,50mm
Rod Length:Standard,Long Rod
Crankshaft: w/out forge, w/forge (+1230)


Exactly what would the forged crankshaft do for me? and what kind of gains would i expect from this kit? Thanks once again for the help guys
 
jwreed09 said:
hey guys...i still haven't heard anything about the car yet. it's still in the shop. i called the mechanic a couple days ago and told him i'd go ahead and order the ss valves, but he was like well let's wait and see if their bent. duh! their most def bent, i mean cause of our engines being an interference engine if the timing belt snaps the pistons and valves collide. anyone know of some cheap valves? i've found some on howell and another site. but anyways to the point of this....i was lookin on howell cause i figured i'd look into the top end performance kit. but i was thinking i could go ahead and get a majority of the internals done at once. so i looked into the master performance rebuild. what kind of specs should i get? Remember I'm going all motor...
Cams: 10,12,14,16
Pistons: 8.5,10.5,12.5
Bore size:.020 over,standard,.030,.040
Main Bearing size:standard,25mm,50mm
Rod Bearing size:standard,25mm,50mm
Rod Length:Standard,Long Rod
Crankshaft: w/out forge, w/forge (+1230)


Exactly what would the forged crankshaft do for me? and what kind of gains would i expect from this kit? Thanks once again for the help guys

what specs you go with depend on how hard core all motor you want to go. if this is going to be your daily driver, you may want to cut back on it.

cams, i was looking at doing 16's as my daily driver, but im not sure how that would run for a daily driver. you will want to look between the 12's and 16's. the 14's are for turbos.

pistons, once again is how hard core you want to go. 12.5 will give you the most power, but be the hardest to tune, and you will have to always run race gas, and it wont be to great for daily driving. 10.5 will give you some power gains, and can be used for daily driving.

you dont need the forged crankshaft

long rod, all i know is it gives you more torque, i dont have any experience with em.
 
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