a different turbo question for 420A

[DSMcrazy3]

.. If you are getting a modular clutch, the flywheel and clutch are riveted together. It is one piece. Maybe your refering to the flexplate?

Many people confuse/refer to that as the flywheel.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Well if you're going to get technical... out clutch systems don't have flywheels, just flexplates to engage the starter and start the car.

 

[link16]

Wait, if i need to replace the "sprocket" like thing attached to the engine where a "flywheel" would be to connect to the tranny/clutch. What do I need for my '98 Eclipse RS?

EDIT: Where do I find ARP head studs and ACL berings?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Flexplate.

 

[link16]

Flexplate.

So, I need a stage 1 flexplate and a stage 1 clutch. Or, am I missing something else? Sorry to be retarded about this but I have no intentions of ordering incorrect parts.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Buy an OEM flexplate. Go ahead and buy new bolts to mount it as well as 4 new mounting bolts which hold the clutch system to the flexplate. For 16 PSI at least go with a stage 2 clutch, possibly stage 3 if going with Southbend.

 

[link16]

Buy an OEM flexplate. Go ahead and buy new bolts to mount it as well as 4 new mounting bolts which hold the clutch system to the flexplate. For 16 PSI at least go with a stage 2 clutch, possibly stage 3 if going with Southbend.

I was under the impression that a stage 1 clutch was capable of handling 340hp, but I would rather have more than I need instead of goin back and saying "Shoulda went with the stage 2." Thanks again.

EDIT: "This assembly provides approximately 80% increase in torque capacity and is properly suited for aggressive street use and moderate track use. The Carbon Kevlar material with its alloy backing matched to a performance pressure plate will provide smooth engagement and extended life.
The 2100 Series kit includes a performance pressure plate, a high torque sprung disc with anti-burst steel backed Carbon Kevlar facings, all applicable bearings, and the appropriate alignment tool.

Includes 8 lb flywheel, new crank bolts and flywheel bolts, plus clutch and pressure plate, alignment tool and throw out bearing!" -quoted from www.420a.cimotorsports.net

Is that all I need for my clutch setup, that is a stage 2 clutch; it does say it has the flywheel and all?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

No that is a non modular set up. In those pictures you see a clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing and alignment tool.

On a modular set up the picture should only show the Pressure plate and throwout bearing. No pilot bearing is needed, and no alignment tool. Look at the price of the stage 2. Seriously, go to southbendclutch.com and look at theirs.

 

[link16]

No that is a non modular set up. In those pictures you see a clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing and alignment tool.

On a modular set up the picture should only show the Pressure plate and throwout bearing. No pilot bearing is needed, and no alignment tool. Look at the price of the stage 2. Seriously, go to southbendclutch.com and look at theirs.

TZ kits contain a modified high performance pressure plate with a heavy duty Kevlar® lined disc. The metal backed Kevlar® linings provide a smooth engagement and have the torque capacity to handle high horse power, high revving engines . These clutch kits maintain a stock feel at the pedal and have unmatched durability. Also included in the kit are a throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool. -Quote from "southbendclutch.com," TZ kit HD Stage 2.

It still has those things as well. Can I by chance just pull a stock flywheel off of a junkyard car or should I get a new one for a boat load?

EDIT: on the sight it also lists that fidanza flywheels come with the Eagle talon FWD non-turbo, but doesn't even mention the Eclipse N/T.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

I don't know why it doesn't list it for the Eclipse as well, but it will work on one. I honestly wouldn't spend the money on one though. Just go OEM.

If you plan on going to the track often don't get the TZ. When the Kevlar on the disc heats up from hard pulls, it begins to lose friction ultimately making each pass at the track a bit slower, unless you were to let the car sit for a long period of time between pulls to allow the material to cool off. For street driving, occasional pulls you'll be fine.

 

[link16]

I don't have intentions of getting to the track often, when I do, I only plan to run once a night. OEM won't work because I am planning to run, as stated before, upwards of 16 to 20 psi (closer to 16) and a stock clutch wont hold up very well, as I have inferred from the other posts and talking to mechanics.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

No, it won't hold up to that much power output, and if you go to the track, you won't be making just one run unless your car were to break.

 

[link16]

At the track up where I live, mind you it is run by rednecks, I usually make one pass get my slips and watch for the rest of the night. Noone likes to spend 3 hours in the pits moving your car up ever 20 seconds.

Btw, I am going to call southbendclutch.com tommorow and see what they have to say and make sure their clutches will fit my application, and maybe try and con a flywheel my way for a discount.

 

[Locke]

A flywheel is built into the modular clutch. The modular clutch assembly is one piece. PP, Disc, Flywheel, all combined. You order a clutch from SBC, you will get everything you need to do a basic clutch job.

 

[link16]

Thanks, that does help.

EDIT: I found a cheaper clutch by googling; I need to know if this page has clutches that are good for my application. My app is running no more than 20psi on a rebuilt 420A.

http://replacement.autopartswarehou...ake=MI&model=ECL--003&part=Clutch Kit&dp=true

Please let me know as to the best clutch for my app.

Now for the big clutch question. Which is better, modular or non-modular?

 

[link16]

I found out what clutch I am going with, I am happy that is solved. In the turbo kit I just won (full listing in OP) it says 48lb injectors, are they the injectors I would need for a turbo or what. I was under the impression that injectors were gauged by ###cc.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

So, what clutch?

 

[link16]

I am going to go with the OFE HD Stage 3 clutch from SBC, I have heard too many great things about them not to. I need a flywheel anyways so i might as well spend $550 for something that will live a long while.

 

[link16]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-9...ItemQQcategoryZ46100QQitemZ250096106993QQrdZ1

Is that a good deal, and if it is, what 3 gauges should I choose?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Gauges are crucial enough where I wouldn't buy no-name brands. More than a couple members have bought those specific gauges with mixed results.

If I were you, I would invest in some Autometers of Defis. Boost/vacuum and oil pressure gauges should be all you need for now. As you begin tuning more, you'll realize the need for gauges like EGT, wbO2, and possibly water temperature or an ammeter. I have a voltmeter, but honestly, it's just there to fill the triple gauge pod.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

I would still recommend getting a narrowband a/f gauge for the time being. As useless as they are said to be I would rather have one over having nothing.

 

[totaleclipse_05]

I would still recommend getting a narrowband a/f gauge for the time being. As useless as they are said to be I would rather have one over having nothing.

X2

When I am at WOT, I like to see just green LED's lit up or else I know something is not right.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

X2

When I am at WOT, I like to see just green LED's lit up or else I know something is not right.

Same here. Those walbro's have been known not to provide enough fuel for us at times. I've experienced it as well as Mike. I was logging with ZT-2 when it happened to me once, the gauge went red, A/F on the laptop went up as well as the EGT's. I personally think it's foolish to have no insight of the a/f after turbocharging these cars.. Just my .02

 

[link16]

Okay, I will look into these gauges, I will go with a boost/vac oil press and a/f gauges. Does anyone have any recommendations as to where I might get a good deal on them?

 

[totaleclipse_05]

The best deals I could find out there were on eBay for Autometer gauges. I just went on the autometer website and found the exact gauge I wanted and found the model number (4 numbers I think) and typed "Autometer ****" in the eBay search and it brought up that exact gauge and I looked for the best deals on a shipped price. Sometimes I could save $10 or more on eBay compared to other places.