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2G Hyundai front case in 6 bolt

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SPYDERGSTTUNER

10+ Year Contributor
175
0
Feb 19, 2011
Rifle, Colorado
Ok so i have searched around but i havent been able to find a definite answer on this and i just wanna make sure before i pull the trigger on this pump. Im in the middle of a 6 bolt build and I need to buy the front case for my motor. I have looked at different vendors trying to find the best price on a OEM pump and so far MAP and Extreme PSI have the better pricing. Now i know the earlier 90's hyundais had the 6 bolt 4g63 or the g4cs motor in them and the alternative is to use the hyundai front case since it was made by mitsubishi anyways. I went to my local hyundai dealership and they happen to have them in stock for 1/4 of the price of the OEM Mitsubishi. The part number is 21310-33142 and this pump comes with everything ready to bolt on, but the OEM mitsu cases are sold separate from the gears..... So my questions are, has anyone opened one to see what gears come with those cases? Are they really just as reliable as the OEM mitsu in high a hp application?
 
I have not personal seen one before but I can tell u that 6 bolt front case and pumps no longer have straight cut gears mitsubishi deemed the pumps too noisy and shaped to the helical cut gear design so if using the 1.6 mirage stub shaft for bse u might see slightly more pump wear because of the lateral thrust loads of the helical cut gears. Personally I used a ebay pump case and pump housing with me oem 6 bolt straight cut gears and the 1.6 stubby micrometer every part during assembly and deemed it good. No problems as of yet. If anything porting the ofh was needed because of slightly high oil pressure I was curious about the hyundai pump as well but wasn't sure as a 96 would have had a crank sensor and didn't kno if any clearance issues with the water pump of miss alignment of the timing components if u do decide to try it let me kno who it turns out. Would be interested for future builds
 
Yea i think im gonna get it its still an oem case wich is what i wanted, plus is $95 out the door:). The only reason i wanted the straight cut gears is because of the stubby shaft i planned to use that came with the bse kit i already have and supposedly the stubby is bad like you said to use with helical gears. I have read some more on this topic and some people seem to disagree that the AMS kit or something alike is needed since the stubby has been used for years with either gearset. There has been some reported problems of the case being worn into by the gears but nothing to really prove that it was the stubby shaft itself or operator error. Up until AMS or GSC brought the cnc shaft into market people started to blame the stubby on helical gears for premature pump wear. I do see how their theory came about but i dont see how all the other high revving high hp dsms that have been using the stubby in their builds were able to do so without any issues or oil pump problems. So i think im gonna buy it, get the gears deburred and detailed,install my oem stubby shaft and hope to see good results. As far as using the hyundai oil pumps only the early 89-95 had the g4cs or g4cp motors in them so only up to 95 is to be used the later motors are hyundai specific.
 
I just picked up the same front case for a budget engine Im throwing together for a shell I just picked up. I'll post back when I get it to compare.
 
Yes, it is suppose to have the 2g crank trigger mounting points, but I'll make sure once i get it.
 
not saying the stub with helical gears is bad. But I have seen a few pumps with case wear a slightly bit greater than with the straight cut all the pumps where still fully op and providing good oil volume but u could see where the gears where rubbing the front back housing I think it's because of the helical cuts. There is rly no carrier that locks the stub into the housing. It is allowed to float back and fourth inside the lateral thrust loads force the stub away from the driven gear this is all taken place in a oiled submerged chamber so wear is to a min and helical is less noisy the straight cut dose the same float but no real thrust load but this is just a theory of mine and I may be completely wrong personal I would not fear either gear set with a build only reason I used my straights was I had both sets and based my choice on what I stated above but I I had not had the I would have used the helical but those r tucked away for a later build. Very good post let us kno who it gose
 
Depends which year case you get. The obd2 Hyundai 6-bolts have the crank sensor.

I bought the 95 sonata case and it is identical to the 6 bolt mitsu WITHOUT the mounting points for the crank sensor, the 96 sonata obd2 pump does indeed have the mounting points for the crank sensor but it is different on the bottom where it should be flat. The hump on the bottom is way curved, even more than a 7 bolt so our oil pans wont work with these.

95 Sonata
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96 Sonata
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I bought the 95 sonata case and it is identical to the 6 bolt mitsu WITHOUT the mounting points for the crank sensor, the 96 sonata obd2 pump does indeed have the mounting points for the crank sensor but it is different on the bottom where it should be flat. The hump on the bottom is way curved, even more than a 7 bolt so our oil pans wont work with these.

95 Sonata
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96 Sonata
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5 minutes with a drill, and welder, and you have a pan with an oil drain fitting.


I know lots of people that prefer to use non turbo pans. You can place the drain wherever you want, without having to plug up existing holes.
 
5 minutes with a drill, and welder, and you have a pan with an oil drain fitting.


I know lots of people that prefer to use non turbo pans. You can place the drain wherever you want, without having to plug up existing holes.

Yea very true if you have access to a welder or can get it done cheap.

Here's the next question, can you use this in place of the crank trigger in the cas on a 1g? Like a substitute for the kiggly crank trigger.

Yea this is kinda what this is meant to do. Specially all of us with a 6 bolt swap would benefit from having the crank sensor from a 2g directly on the pump rather than having to make a wiring harness or have to buy the kiggly set up.
 
I got the front case in and it doesnt have the mounting points for the 2g crank trigger, not an issue for me. It is, however, an oem Hyundai/kia case (ground off) which includes the oil pump gears. At work currently so I dont have the tools to take the cover off to see if its helical or straight cut, but I will tonight. More than likely they will be helical.
 

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Yes I do believe all oil pumps now r helical cut gears. Only straight cuts r the ones floating around from original 6 bolt oil pumps. Mitsu discontinued the straights in favor of the quitter helical in the early 90's I ordered a new oem pump from the dealer a few years back for a 6 bolt and the where helical
 
I got the front case in and it doesnt have the mounting points for the 2g crank trigger, not an issue for me. It is, however, an oem Hyundai/kia case (ground off) which includes the oil pump gears. At work currently so I dont have the tools to take the cover off to see if its helical or straight cut, but I will tonight. More than likely they will be helical.


That is the exact one I bought and mine doesnt have the mounting points either but is because that is a 91-95 case not the one found in the 96+ elantra with the big hump on the bottom instead of the straigh bottom. The 96+ Elantra is obd2 which is when they decided to mount the crank sensor on the pump just like the dsm 7 bolt motors.
 
Rly not a big problem. I just rewired my cas. Like it better that way. No crank sensor to go out. Causing me to pull my timing cover just to replace it.
 
I have the Hyundai oil pump on my 6 bolt but I think it starting to cause noise and will probably try the new ACL/orbit oil pump and use the straight cut gears. Because if you think about the helical it would seem like it will put stress on the case. Its diagno so you would think it'll start digging into the side of the case.
 
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