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How to remove cam sprocket

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dsmBear

10+ Year Contributor
387
10
Aug 27, 2012
Carmichael, California
I'm doing my timing, and my crank and cam seals, water pump etc. I don't have the belt off as some people say i need belt on to get cams off... How do i get them off? I tried impact gun with bolts still on and di nothing, and also how do i go about getting the crank sprocket off?
 
Finally got it, didn't take off cover I just had friend push one cam towards me while I broke other one, then a crow bar to stop from spinning. More questions, does my balance shaft belt have to be timed? Also what is best way to get cam and crank seals removed
 
Its cheap. Really cheap and really easy. With stock motor mounts you wont notice a thing.
You can simply cut the front belt(front shaft), leave that one alone. The rear is where you put the stub shaft. Unless that 4lbs of balance shaft up front is important. With this method your oil pressure will stay the same as well.
 
Its cheap. Really cheap and really easy. With stock motor mounts you wont notice a thing.
You can simply cut the front belt(front shaft), leave that one alone. The rear is where you put the stub shaft. Unless that 4lbs of balance shaft up front is important. With this method your oil pressure will stay the same as well.

Holy crap. Iv'e been playing with dsms since 2005 and bought my first one in like 2007 and Ive never thought of this. Ive always disliked doing the BSE because of the high oil pressure and pushing past seals and killing turbos from over oiling. Im so doing this to the new dsm. Ive cut the belt before but never thought of just leaving the shaft in and putting the BSE in. OMG Thank you sir
 
Yeppers, the front shaft can stay in - not hurting anything.

But, one forgot to say that the oil pan needs to be dropped and the BS sleeve bearings needs to be turn to block the oil ports when removing the rear BS shaft .. along with taking off the oil pump from the front of the block to do the stub shaft trick first - lotsa steps missed there which can be a scare factor to one that's never done one before.
 
Really no need to do a BSE.. With good condition belts and being timed correctly there are no issues or anything to worry about. Right now, well this past summer, my spyder was on a stock 7 bolt with balance shafts on a holset at ~30 psi almost all season and I plan to continue to use this engine in its current condition.. Because I maintain the engine well.

Although, like you mentioned earlier the "shake like a mofo" there really isnt any difference that I noticed on an engine that did have a BSE.
 
IMO, just replace the balance belt, don't bother with the delete.

To remove crank sprocket bolt, put the car in gear. Don't run yourself over though, set the parking brake!
 
Yeppers, the front shaft can stay in - not hurting anything.

But, one forgot to say that the oil pan needs to be dropped and the BS sleeve bearings needs to be turn to block the oil ports when removing the rear BS shaft .. along with taking off the oil pump from the front of the block to do the stub shaft trick first - lotsa steps missed there which can be a scare factor to one that's never done one before.

No reason to pull the oil pan. The rear balance shaft bearing doesnt have any oil holes in it to block off.
 
Yeppers, the front shaft can stay in - not hurting anything.

But, one forgot to say that the oil pan needs to be dropped and the BS sleeve bearings needs to be turn to block the oil ports when removing the rear BS shaft .. along with taking off the oil pump from the front of the block to do the stub shaft trick first - lotsa steps missed there which can be a scare factor to one that's never done one before.

Yea, i assumed he was taking the motor out. But you're right, its not just "put stubby in and roll" deal. There IS some work to a rear bs delete. Im just saying the front shaft doesnt need to be touched.
I should have elaborated, i assumed he knew what was involved in a BSE to begin with
 
When I did my BSE I had to install dummy bearings to maintain sufficient oil pressure.and when you do it correctly you save about 12-15lbs.
 
When I did my BSE I had to install dummy bearings to maintain sufficient oil pressure.and when you do it correctly you save about 12-15lbs.

Ha, well ive never weighed the sprocket and shafts so i cant say. If you're racing then thats a DAMN good amount of weight. Id always heard the front shaft weighs ~5lbs.
 
Ha, well ive never weighed the sprocket and shafts so i cant say. If you're racing then thats a DAMN good amount of weight. Id always heard the front shaft weighs ~5lbs.

They feel like 5lb a piece in your hand. Ive always wanted to beat something with one because it has that kinda weight to it LOL. I've never weighed one but for 5 extra lbs and I don't have to worry about my oil pressue being high. Ill take itLOL
 
Explain how you go about installing the Stub shaft without pulling an oil pan?:sneaky:

Remove front cover bolts, remove oil pan to front cover bolts, slide front cover out from the front of the block, chop the rear balance shaft into several pieces on its way out.
 
Remove front cover bolts, remove oil pan to front cover bolts, slide front cover out from the front of the block, chop the rear balance shaft into several pieces on its way out.

How in the world are you going to unbolt the oil pump pickup. You have to remove the oil pan, there is no other way. Also cutting the shaft while pulling it out is a completely horrible idea. Metal debris in the engine is not good.
 
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