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horrible problem after timing belt change

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Please may people see this. Found the problem. timing is off, but not by much....or a lot. So can any one tell me how bad this is. And on the pulley, I think I found the mark. Is it just a small slit on the rim of the plate that goes between crankshaft end and the crankshaft pulley?
 

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Two problems. I believe you were told do not use the outer pulley. Its not a 100% indicator. And assum7ng it is...thats not alot off? Its a shit ton. Verify like we told you but my guess is that job is crap. Take the covers off. my guess is when you do line up the crank youll find your cams are off four or five teeth each and you have bent valves.
 
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Two problems. I believe you wenre told do not use the outer pulley. Its not a 100% indicator. And assum7ng it is...thats not alot off? Its a sh** ton. Vetify like we told you but my guess is that job is crap. Take the covers off. my guess is when you do line up the crank youll find your cams are off four or five teeth each and you have bent valves.

v.v no, wasn't told not to use it, but I was told to use it. And I need to take off the side engine mount completely? And I feel like my oil pan should be flat on the bottom?
 
Car came with oil pan sloping inward....it doesn't look dented it looks like it was like that from factory so I thought it was fine......Just recently I've been looking at replacement parts. Trying to replace/ install small upgrades. (oil catch can, mbc, maybe new shifter, need spark plug cover)
 
Getting the car running is completely first Obviously. Sorry that I'm young and stupid and I've never had a car that had potential. Maintenance is also before upgrades, unless they run along the same lines and price range. Like if I need to change the timing belt and I have enough for cam gears, why not buy them?
 
It's now apparent to me that I forgot to mention that I saw a oil pan for our cars yesterday and learned it should be flat....And not a single shop said anything about it being a problem.
 
Oil pan is sloped.....just the way it is.
Car is in pieces forget EVERYTHING else.
Back to timing belt/cam timing.
Take the spark plug out of the cylinder closest to the belt.

Put a long screwdriver - small extension what ever you have that is clean durable & long enough to go into the spark plug hole touch the top of the piston while at the same time come over the top of the spark plug well hole in the valve cover.
So rough;y at least 24" length rod.

Put a 1/2 drive extension into the crank pulley bolt.
Put 1/2 ratchet onto extension & turn the motor over by hand with the ratchet slowly.
You will see the rod placed in the spark plug hole rise/fall as the piston pushes it.
Find the highest point the piston can push the rod to.
Check your cam timing marks @ this point.
If the marks are not pointing at each other turn the motor over again by hand one more time to align the timing marks to check cam timing.
The marks should be at the 3 o'clock position on the exhaust cam.
Then the 9 o'clock position on the intake cam.
Both pointing right at each other with that #1 piston truly at top dead center.
 
Yeah, the slope where the oil pan bolt is. The center is dented inward. Like someone put a Jack or something on the oil pan in the center and I can go do that. I did that once before though I can't recall where everything was.
 
The cam gear ticks are at 10:40(exhaustb and 5:40(intake) and putting that piston at tdc made the ticks move further apart.
 
You are sure you are at true top dead center on #1 as in the method described above?
 
Oh and thank you for giving me a wonderful walk through. I knew what you were talking about but it still helped.
 
If you dont know how to properly find TDC find someone who can. If you dont have the mechanical knowledge to work on the car nor the tools, find someone who does.

You keep bringing up useless issues that doesnt pertain to your current problem....
 
And I do. Top dead center. When the main piston is at its peak hight within the cylinder. I know all the mechanical aspects behind a thermal combustion engine. Just absolutely not a ounce of hands on experience. (Except brakes, spark plugs/wires, wiper blades, oil/trans fluid change)
 
Well if you have # 1 there & the marks are not a described,,,,,that's a big issue.

A leak down test is needed.....but you likely bent valves.
You need a leak down tester/gauge set & an air compressor to do it.

If your feeling overwhelmed.....
I have a trailer will travel . I can take some side work on.
Your about 2 or so hours away.
This weekend I'm out of town though, going to Road America.
 
I'd appriciate that, but I really only have money for parts for the rebuild. I do have a lot of great conditioned interior stuff. Along with two cas, a fuel pump, a bare head, a 2g IM, t-case, 4 bolt differential, and rear axles that I could give you. But right now my only question is. To remove the side timing cover. I'd need to support the engine, remov. The cam gear side engine mount completely. Then remove the crank, oil, and harmonic balancer pulleys, to remove the timing belt in order to pull the head. Is that all correct?
 
Yes it's simple....Pull the L mount in the the front of the motor.
The A/c tensioner bracket/pulley assembly.
remove water pump/power steering pulleys.
Obviously all drive belts....
The 4 bolts to the crank pulley, then remove. leave center bolt alone.
Then remover lower large timing cover.

I'm wondering for that $800 if they put a new hydraulic tensioner on or if they messed up the old one compressing it improperly.
 
Mosers fuked your stuff up bro, I'd go have a chat with them.... See if they will give you anything of your 800 back!

I doubt they even have the special 15$ tool to properly load the timing belt tensioner..


Some detailed timing video's that helped me set mine!

This is the one for your motor, and very educational.
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Not a graveyard fan but a decent video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
What if they did mess up the old then when they threw on the new the didn't put tension it right?
 
That is probably exactly what they did. I don't know why you didn't take it back when you had mentioned car messed up five days after the job.
 
It was acting like a misfire, or a fuel issue. I could drive 5 miles with n. Problem. Even sometimes 20. But then it drops 1000-1500 RPMS. The last time it did that it was so bad it almost threw my head into the steering wheel. That's when I parked it and I hasn't moved. from my knowledge of a wrong timing on these cars is that they shouldn't even be able to run. (Maybe I'm wrong)
 
So they don't have this took and also said they used pliers to compress the hydraulic tensioner
 

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