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horrible problem after timing belt change

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Ohh. lasthope made it seem like I had to rotate it multiple times To check timing. Well good thing I bought valves. What components need to be changed out for a head rebuild and will stock retainers work with supertech single springs?
 
The upgreaded spring pressure will allow the valves to pull back to the block quicker, but Tyne possible adverse affects would be the extra pressure could wear out the lash adjuster, the rocker arms, and if the rocker arms goes. Then the camshafts will go. Correct?
 
Higher spring pressure is for higher lift cams, generally with an agreesive ramp rate, to combat valve float at high rpms. In rare cases they will combat against extreme boost pressure.
your engine I don't see you needing springs really.
 
Paulyman is right that thing looks to have skipped @ the crank pulley.
Nothing else matters now.
Don't worry bout springs....your good.
You have enough money to spend given your current situation.
You need to;
Get a price on a headset & head bolts. >Rockauto fel pro
Find a good machine shop, not a hack.
Expect to pay at least $250 easy for the head to be gone thru completely.
Depending upon the amount of damage/if you supply parts.
trust me 250 is likely too low for what your gonna need.
If you chill out I may even be able to come way out there on assembly day.....
 
Yes....that's what I meant. Cam gears only adjust the specific timing of the exhaust or intake valves.
 
Ok. So buy stem seals, valve guides are a 50/50. PO said head was rebuilt. He also nearly destroyed the engine. checked retainers, the look fine under the rocker arms, but will need through examination, and lifters I have no idea if they need to be replaced. Or should I replace all valve train components excluding anything above rocker arm? Just trying to get all the information I can.
 
You want to first look at the crank and make it TDC/0 . You want to be turning the engine by hand with a 22mm socket in the clockwise direction. When the crank is at TDC stop and look at your cam gears. Dowel pins near the centers should be up and timing marks near the edge of the gear should be close to each other and level. If the dowel pins are facing down, rotate the crank one more time. Stop, check the cam gears and see if the dowel pins are now up with timing marks next to each other. That's all you can do to check cam/crank correct position. Every one crank rotation equals one-half cam rotation.
 
I know, but I can only use them with aftermarket cam shafts....well that's what I've been seeing and reading.
 
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