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HOLY WHERE IS THIS OIL COMING FROM, HELP

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You should get the head pressure tested at a shop but if you don't, at least do what is described in the videos below to test for leaks.
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Next on your list is to straight edge you block and head to make sure they are not too warped for a OEM compsite head gasket. If that all checks out, install an OEM composite head gasket and a minimum of ARP 8750 head studs. I always recommend the L19 but they are pricey.
 
cant tell much from the video, however only thing that slightly stands out to me
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Last edited:
At this point have the machine shop r&r the head completely. You never mentioned if car was running badly ,missing,or if it overheated.
The machine shop would tell you about any issues with the head.Get a new head gasket. Some new arp head studs.Put it back on the block.

Do a proper valve cover ventilation. setup (Calan catch can).and get rid of the pcv valve.

Worst case scenario after all is said and done would be bad rings and that is why someone advised you to do a compression test first. Only be concerned about this if you still have an oil leak issue. Definitely leaning towards block to head sealing issues (head gasket). Will all be ruled out after you get proper machine shop work done.
 
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BoredDSM said:
I wouldn't sweat it at all. Milky stuff in the exhaust side is moisture and if you drove it a short period of time and parked it in the cold it will do that. The oil is most likely from the valve seals as those continue to leak after the engine is off. For you to get oil and or coolant in the cylinder and pushing out into the exhaust ports the engine must of ran terribly if at all. Normal on the intake side also if you have bad valve seals or a stuck PCV valve. Double check your charge piping for oil and if that isn't excessive replace valve stem seals and install a proper catch can.
Click to expand...

if it was the seals you really think its all the exhaust and intake valves like exactly the same amount of oil in all the ports???
 
ceedawg said:
At this point have the machine shop r&r the head completely. You never mentioned if car was running badly ,missing,or if it overheated.
The machine shop would tell you about any issues with the head.Get a new head gasket. Some new arp head studs.Put it back on the block.

Do a proper valve cover ventilation. setup (Calan catch can).and get rid of the pcv valve.

Worst case scenario after all is said and done would be bad rings and that is why someone advised you to do a compression test first. Only be concerned about this if you still have an oil leak issue. Definitely leaning towards block to head sealing issues (head gasket). Will all be ruled out after you get proper machine shop work done.
Click to expand...

running fine no over heating and no missing but i just put in the new head gasket and arp studs ill post an update video tonight on how it runs!!!!
 
next question before update what goes were labeled #1 and #2 let me know and im not hooking this up to just one vent on the external waste gate im using the top and bottom of the gate so let me know what the inlet and outlet is the rest i can do!

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Dsmkauai is correct. This is very common for ball/spring types of manual boost controllers.

According to your pic:
#1: Outlet (wastegate)
#2: inlet (Boost source)
 
You should have started a new thread. If you don't trust the information you have been given, email/call the manufacturer.
 
Make sure you have good valve cover ventilation as well after you assemble the motor. i hope you used new valve seals as well
 
coolant looks okay so does the oil so you can rule out a few things.
as mentioned earlier you should follow the calan pcv swap http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-4g63t-pcv-system.366890/

Cleaning out the inter-cooler, and all the intake piping, like I mentioned earlier, is still a good idea because you will know there is no oil residue left in there, which could make new evidence once all the clean new parts are all installed.

Get the head looked at by a machinist, and then have it resurfaced cleaned and checked for leaks etc, at the same time you could have the machinist install all of your new valve seals, making sure to tell him/her to remove all the old crud that the oem valve seals tend to leave behind on the valve guide lip grooves
[a lot of shops forget this part it's important for proper sealing]

also make sure to do the oil port mod [or have the machinist do it for you].http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.341028/
 
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