KeelesKustome
15+ Year Contributor
- 882
- 17
- Dec 29, 2007
-
Waverly,
Tennessee
I didn't make this writeup but i did make mine better. heres the post.
I just hooked mine up to the steering wheel as well.
All i had to buy was a scossche adapter plug at walmart in the automotive section to get the heavy duty earphone jack, for $10. It comes with a AUX adapter for ipods to connect to your stereo. (obviously thats not needed)
I comes with 6 ft of cord so you don't have to do any ugly tape work.
The cables are different then the listed demonstration.
In this cable it has red, white, blue, and a bare wire. You won't use the blue wire.
The bare wire is the ground.
red on H jack went to green car harness plug
white on H jack went to blue car harness plug
One thing that wasn't given in full detail was the ground wire behind the steering wheel for the horn needs to be removed from the plug on the horn. Just cut the 2 wires away. twist them together and then solder them to your ground wire heat shrink and your done.
This project with getting my iron and supplies out took 30 minutes.
One thing i plan on doing is contacting Tim about another digital display, maybe even bigger if possible. I'd like to add it into my gauge cluster to have an OEM feel, as well as allowing me to visually see what gear i am in with a glance. then allowing me to permanently mount the box inside of the lifted up elbow rest.
The whole project cost $10, their was no need for any other wiring. I hid the wire under my dash and ran it up through the console. I removed the ash tray as the box fits perfectly in their. Once removed you see a hole in the bottom, Thats a perfect spot to run the jack wire though for a clean seamless install, with no worries of being nicked or bent causing binding.
I did not have my camera or i would have taken pictures. Although in the future I'll go back and take those for you.
I've been fighting with my shiftbox and e-brake. I just don't have enough hands when launching to hold on to the wheel, box and brake.
Mounting the box where I know it sits is okay, but I still run the risk of missing a shift or downshifting by accident because I'm going by "feel." On top of that I had shoulder surgery 3 weeks ago (right shoulder) and will be in a sling for 3 more weeks. I'm not allowed to move my shoulder without assistance for another month after the sling comes off so I needed a better solution.
Tonight I wired the headphone jack input of the box to the horn buttons on the steering wheel, and it's ground.It worked just like I hoped. Next I'm going to try to use the wiring from the airbag (obviously missing) to go through the ring connector at the steering column to eliminate the loose wiring that could wrap around.
Notes:
- The left and right horn switches need separated, obviously.
- The left switch needs to be wired to the phone jack's right contact and vice versa if you want your upshift on the right hand and downshift on the left hand.
- Press firmly when you want to shift.
- A momentary switch will be mounted where the airbag used to be to activate the horn and pass inspection.
- Don't forget to tell your wife it's going to shift at full line pressure when she's your test driver
Then made a terrible video of it. Sorry for the vid quality. Using only one arm sucks and it was starting to get dark out. I'll post one while driving in a few weeks when I'm back to having two arms.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I think there was a thread somewhere that someone talked about this, but I wasn't able to find it to add on.
Thoughts?
Greg
Please understand that I don't have any formal electrical/electronic training. That should tell you right away how easy this is.
I apologize for the crudeness of the diagrams (attached). I hope I used the correct symbols. A write up with pics is included just in case the diagrams are hard to follow.
I used the regular wiring schematic for a headphone jack to build my harness:You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Underneath the steering column cover is where the wires from the horn and cruise come out into a plug. I unplugged the wiring and cut off the female end leaving a few inches of wire. Then I attached the red wire of my harness(tip of the headphone jack) to the blue wire on the plug (right horn button). The green wire(middle of the headphone jack) was attached to the green wire with red stripe on the plug(left horn button. Finally, the black wire (ground on headphone jack) was attached to the black wire on the plug (ground for the switches).You must be logged in to view this image or video.
On the horn switches the left and right switch have to be separated.You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Then locate the wires coming from the clock spring to the cruise control and horn.You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The purple lead from the left switch goes on the green wire with red stripe. The purple lead from the right switch goes with the blue wire. Lastly, the black ground wire goes to the black wire.
After that all you have to do is plug your harness into the plug from the clock spring under the steering column and then plug the headphone jack into the side of the shift box. Any time you activate the shift box you should be able to shift with the horn buttons.
Parts and Notes:
- Headphone jack from radioshack
- Red 20ga wire
- Green 20ga wire
- Black 20ga wire
- If you wire things this way your upshift button is on the right and the downshift button is on the left
- Make sure your horn buttons both function. If they don't this probably isn't a good idea.
- Press firmly to shift. I'm sure you know how inconsistent the horn buttons can be with light pressure.
Hope that helps. Let me know if there's anything confusing.
I just hooked mine up to the steering wheel as well.
All i had to buy was a scossche adapter plug at walmart in the automotive section to get the heavy duty earphone jack, for $10. It comes with a AUX adapter for ipods to connect to your stereo. (obviously thats not needed)
I comes with 6 ft of cord so you don't have to do any ugly tape work.
The cables are different then the listed demonstration.
In this cable it has red, white, blue, and a bare wire. You won't use the blue wire.
The bare wire is the ground.
red on H jack went to green car harness plug
white on H jack went to blue car harness plug
One thing that wasn't given in full detail was the ground wire behind the steering wheel for the horn needs to be removed from the plug on the horn. Just cut the 2 wires away. twist them together and then solder them to your ground wire heat shrink and your done.
This project with getting my iron and supplies out took 30 minutes.
One thing i plan on doing is contacting Tim about another digital display, maybe even bigger if possible. I'd like to add it into my gauge cluster to have an OEM feel, as well as allowing me to visually see what gear i am in with a glance. then allowing me to permanently mount the box inside of the lifted up elbow rest.
The whole project cost $10, their was no need for any other wiring. I hid the wire under my dash and ran it up through the console. I removed the ash tray as the box fits perfectly in their. Once removed you see a hole in the bottom, Thats a perfect spot to run the jack wire though for a clean seamless install, with no worries of being nicked or bent causing binding.
I did not have my camera or i would have taken pictures. Although in the future I'll go back and take those for you.
