The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Help save your journal bearing turbos!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Theirs a large "Which Oil" thread on here with that link posted

They don't really say what Mobil One 10w-30 they where using and also If you where to ask Mobil one what oil to use in that application they would depending on your location most likely recommend Mobil One 15w-50 racing oil.

If you read on in the thread I go into a little bit of detail about the their oils.

I really don't understand part of what their saying... In that .pdf they say that they used the same turbo for 2 years yet. in comparison used a completely different turbo for the test? and Ran Napa oil thru the motor first?

Their is a point that they make, which is more or less not to use GF-4 oil with a low Zinc & Phos. content in a high Hp race engines. Why they got specific with any Brand is beyond me, Mobil 1 Racing Oils offer boosted levels of anti-wear protection (nominal zinc level of 1850 ppm)For use in Vehicles with out Catalytic converters.
 
I wonder why they didn't highlight the Castrol Syntec. Its 1200/1200 on the zinc/phos which maches some of the others that they are highlighting.

I've been using the Syntec for years and my eclipse has seen nothing else. Though I guess I may not be pushing my turbo hard enough at 20psi on an 18g.
 
I wonder why they didn't highlight the Castrol Syntec. Its 1200/1200 on the zinc/phos which maches some of the others that they are highlighting.

I've been using the Syntec for years and my eclipse has seen nothing else. Though I guess I may not be pushing my turbo hard enough at 20psi on an 18g.

I wondered about that too. Maybe they just haven't really used it.
Anyway, I think the only syntec with 1200/1200 now is the 20w-50. They have changed the labeling on the 20w-50 so it looks different than the other viscosity syntecs.
I was using the 10w-40 Syntec. Decided to quit using it because I can't find anyplace on the Castrol web site where they give the ZDDP content for the 10w-40. In fact after scouring the Castrol web sites (both of them) I got so pi**ed at their general lack of useful information that I've had it with Castrol. I'm using Brad Penn now, and some of the other oils I would use too. Just not the GF-4 oils.
 
Don't have a thrust bearing turbo.
Don't have oil over 200*..generally.
One test performed one day showed these results.

This thread tastes like kool aid.
 
Maybe in their next test, they'll be more specific that the test was in regards to only two of their turbo's (IE FP Black and FP Red) And/or high Hp Applications.(although they where in that part)

So IMHO it should read along the line of in there... If you have Steel thrust bearing turbo... .
Also not everyone is going to want to run some of these Oil's since they have low levels of detergents... .

What all this comes do to is knowing what is the right Oil for Your Own application:thumb:
I can see someone right now going out an running these oils with a Cat and leaving them in for a long time without understanding every aspect of them... .
 
what will happen to your cat converter if you run a non detergent oil?
 
I have always been a firm believer of 15-40 rotella T. Would like to know where it stacks up in the tests.
 
what will happen to your cat converter if you run a non detergent oil?
Not sure about the catalytic converter, but the engine would sludge itself up in no time at all.

The zinc in the oil is what's harmful to converters, not the detergent.
 
i have been running Valvoline vr 10-30 for 2 yrs with no problems to my vibrant high flow cat.
 
Don't have a thrust bearing turbo.
Don't have oil over 200*..generally.
One test performed one day showed these results.

This thread tastes like kool aid.


I am guessing your not actually measuring OIL temp, I would be willing to bet your measuring water temp. Oil temp is actually higher than water temp 95% of the time by around 30-40 degrees.. My oil temps hover just over 200 degrees with a setrab oil cooler ;)
 
Not sure about the catalytic converter, but the engine would sludge itself up in no time at all.


Your not the first person I have heard claim this. From my understanding, "racing oil's" have to be changed like every 1,000 miles or sludge builds up fast since there is no detergents in them. Can anyone confirm this?
 
Your not the first person I have heard claim this. From my understanding, "racing oil's" have to be changed like every 1,000 miles or sludge builds up fast since there is no detergents in them. Can anyone confirm this?

I thought it was more like 2500 - 3000 miles. :hmm:
 
so what happens if you don't run a synthetic oil? we've been using High Mileage Castrol GTX on both the truck and the car and i was so tickled when i popped the valve cover to see no sludge whatsoever (on the car). and i'm also going to ask before i put fluids back in this car... it's got a new turbo but i did nothing to the motor... besides a new valve cover gasket... i've got some 5w30 to go in it... do i need to change it to 10w30?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top