1G Head Gasket and Studs

[DSM_munky_man]

Alright, did some searching, but havent found exactly my question yet. So here is the deal. Is there a problem to jsut swap out the stock head bolts for ARP's without lifting the head off or disturbing the gasket underneath? I was just planning on detorquing them in sequence, taking them out, replacing them with the ARPs in proper torqued sequence and calling it good. Can this be done? Or is it necassary to replace the gasket too. I am unsure of the gasket that is on now, but I know the engine has been gone through before, and the car itself only has 88k on it so there cant be more than that on the rebuild. Is this a safe bet, or should I just replace the headgasket too, I didnt plan on taking that whole head off, just the VC to paint and I was going to do the studs then. Thanks for the help!

 

[johneclipse]

Alright, did some searching, but havent found exactly my question yet. So here is the deal. Is there a problem to jsut swap out the stock head bolts for ARP's without lifting the head off or disturbing the gasket underneath? I was just planning on detorquing them in sequence, taking them out, replacing them with the ARPs in proper torqued sequence and calling it good. Can this be done? Or is it necassary to replace the gasket too. I am unsure of the gasket that is on now, but I know the engine has been gone through before, and the car itself only has 88k on it so there cant be more than that on the rebuild. Is this a safe bet, or should I just replace the headgasket too, I didnt plan on taking that whole head off, just the VC to paint and I was going to do the studs then. Thanks for the help!

chances are once you untorque the head the gasket on it will be toast and not seal correctly. if your gonna switch to arps...pull the head and put on a new gasket on as well

 

[92AWDHX40]

I would replace the gasket and new arps just to be safe.

 

[donniekak]

You can do it one at a time. Remove 1 bolt, install the stud, torque it, and move to the next bolt. If you loosen all the bolts at once, you'll need to pull the head and redo the gasket. I have done the one by one method myself several times without issue. On cars running high boost.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

Alright that is good to hear Donnie. Just for S&G's, where is a good place to shop for Headgaskets anyway? Dont want an MLS just composite or something similar, dont have the means/time/money right now to get the block and head decked.

And Donnie, P.S. Weekend of the 26th or 5th I will be doing the pump/belts/studs if your down to come I am having pizza and beer. Check the thread (if you havent already) in the phx threads.

 

[donniekak]

Alright that is good to hear Donnie. Just for S&G's, where is a good place to shop for Headgaskets anyway? Dont want an MLS just composite or something similar, dont have the means/time/money right now to get the block and head decked.

And Donnie, P.S. Weekend of the 26th or 5th I will be doing the pump/belts/studs if your down to come I am having pizza and beer. Check the thread (if you havent already) in the phx threads.

Go to checker and get a felpro composite. I've run them at over 30 psi without issue. Many people have run these at high power levels. With your 7-bolt, the studs are the more important issue to running higher boost.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

It's a seven bolt? I thought this was a six bolt? Car is late 91 and they didnt start 7 bolts till mid 92 I thought? And if it was originally a 6 bolt why would someone swap in a 7 bolt?

 

[donniekak]

It's a seven bolt? I thought this was a six bolt? Car is late 91 and they didnt start 7 bolts till mid 92 I thought? And if it was originally a 6 bolt why would someone swap in a 7 bolt?

I keep thinking your car is a 94. Look at the oil pan to make sure. If you do have a 6-bolt, skip out on the regular arp's. I ran 30 psi daily for a long time on a bone stock 6-bolt. There is much debate as to how much, if any better the regular arp's are than stock 6-bolt hardware. Or you can do what i did, go straight to the l19/h11's.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

Oil pan checks out as a 6 bolt, I was going to edit and post it on my last reply but wasnt sure if you may have already replied so I was going to wait. Also, If stock is good I may just wait, I dont plan on seeing anything over 25ish for a long while, just didnt want to lift the head or something. That will save me a bit of dough to put toward the FMIC

 

[Demon33]

Alright, did some searching, but havent found exactly my question yet. So here is the deal. Is there a problem to jsut swap out the stock head bolts for ARP's without lifting the head off or disturbing the gasket underneath? I was just planning on detorquing them in sequence, taking them out, replacing them with the ARPs in proper torqued sequence and calling it good. Can this be done? Or is it necassary to replace the gasket too. I am unsure of the gasket that is on now, but I know the engine has been gone through before, and the car itself only has 88k on it so there cant be more than that on the rebuild. Is this a safe bet, or should I just replace the headgasket too, I didnt plan on taking that whole head off, just the VC to paint and I was going to do the studs then. Thanks for the help!

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The stock 6-bolt head bolts can handle 25 psi. I know this from personal experience. I've even reused them a couple of times without issues. If you have to replace the head gasket, I'd say consider trying the ARP's but again, they may not be needed for your goals nor necessarily better than stock bolts. Save your time and money to use elsewhere.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

Alright, My only concern was lifting the head, but if multiple people have seend 30 or so psi on stock I guess I will be safe cause I am staying at or under 25. Thanks guys for the help!!

 

[Demon33]

Up to a point, it's not the boost level that lifts heads, it's knock and detonation that does. Tune for zero knock and you will be fine at that boost level.