1G Guessing valve stem seal?

[AWD-Tony]

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just took the manifold off #3 is wet. Hard to see from the pic. All the valves look the same crusty white. What do you suggest next? Remove head and give to machine shop? Does block need to be machined as well? And what’s the approx cost?
Thanks

 

[jakk220]

Oil in the exhaust ports on the head is almost always valve seals leaking. Is your car burning oil / blowing blue smoke out of the back while driving, after sitting at idle for a while, or on start up? If so, it's more than likely your valve seals.

The white deposits on the valves is carbon buildup. It's normal. It appears the one valve is wet, but in the photo it's hard to tell. If it is, then it's for sure valve seals. They can be replaced without removing the head. But it's a PITA.

Price will vary. I have had my valve seals changed, a good mill, and a hot tank all for 100 bucks. It's not a bad job really.

Here is the long part of it all:

You are going to need the head machined. The block should be fine. You will however need to use a composite head gasket. Not an MLS.

You will need to clean the block surface well. There are different methods to do this. Some gasket remover, a plastic scraper (or razor blade if you are careful) and some brake cleaner. I have used the yellow finger rolloc disk with good luck. You need to use this very very lightly though.

If using stock head bolts currently, you will want to get a set of ARP head studs. The stock bolts can not be reused. You will also need the thread chaser (not tap) made by ARP to clean the threads in the block. This is a must. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

At this point, you may want to replace the timing belt and components such as the water pump, tensioner and pulleys etc. since you will be in there anyways

You will need the timing belt tool kit. It's not too expensive. But you will need it.

If you decide to dive into it we can always help with more information!

 

[motomattx]

Looks good, it actually looks like it only needs the one valve seal replaced, depending on what kind of project your looking for and your budget, you could just replace the one with the head on the car or all of them with the head on the car. If you pull the head you then need to do things right and that includes having the skills, time and budget for doing it right, otherwise it will be worse off than it is now.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Just an FYI. I don’t plan on breaking world records. Just want the most out of the current set up without breaking the bank. Fun and reliable.

I haven’t noticed any smoke during cold start hot start nor driving. Had the manifold off a few weeks ago and it wasn’t wet that time. It’s only one valve on the right since the other side was dry. Recently replaced the CAS o ring which was leaking pretty bad. No other visible leaks except for wet oil return from turbo but it’s not bad at all. I’ll chnage it next oil change. I’m changing the oil in 1,500 miles so I don’t know if it’s burning oil since I topped it off after CAS. Bumper around exhaust isn’t discolored. Nothing in catch can, turbo and ic piping are dry.

$100 is not bad to have machine shop service it.

I don’t know if it has stock headbolts. Have read they’re torque to yield and if I pull the head I will perform tbelt service replace HG and arp studs if it doesn’t have it already. I don’t know what to do now since it has low compression 110 115 115 120 dry. Was going to do wet compression test today but ran into this.

I don’t have a grand to throw into this right now. Seems like that’s the minimum cost for all this.

What’s the cost of parts for complete tbelt water pump tensioner pully(s) balance shaft delete? Looked up oem seal kit today which was $260
I know the tools cost about $50 or so.
Anything else I should do while I’m in there?

Would you continue fixing this w compression being low? I know I have to compression test wet to see if it’s the bottom end.

Thanks!!

 

[motomattx]

Whats more important is a leakdown test, compression tests can be inaccurate if they arent perfomed properly or the tester is a cheapo tool, many an engine has been torn down for no reason because of a bad compression test.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I’ve never taken a head off. I’m mechanically inclined and honestly not afraid of headwork. Think the hardest part is compressing the springs but saw the tool jafro made which would make things a million times easier. But I do not want to tackle the bottom end. That scares me

 

[AWD-Tony]

Whats more important is a leakdown test, compression tests can be inaccurate if they arent perfomed properly or the tester is a cheapo tool, many an engine has been torn down for no reason because of a bad compression test.

I do have a cheap compression test kit.
Can leak down test be done with exhaust mani off?

 

[motomattx]

I do have a cheap compression test kit.
Can leak down test be done with exhaust mani off?

Yes, it can.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Thanks guys!! I will borrow leak down tester and post results.

 

[AWD-Tony]

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Good news is that it doesn’t leak while sitting.

 

[chrysler kid]

That's not a leak. And they don't leak unless the car is running

This is a leak

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[AWD-Tony]

I can see that probably smokes. It still shouldn’t be wet and it just #3. My guess would be that it just started??? How long do factory seal usually last? I have 128k. Sure it’s dependent but any guess on average?

 

[chrysler kid]

I can see that probably smokes. It still shouldn’t be wet and it just #3. My guess would be that it just started??? How long do factory seal usually last? I have 128k. Sure it’s dependent but any guess on average?

That is carbon build up on your car, it's not an oil leak

You know how to tell if it's an oil leak? The inside of your exhaust housing has oil in it too. And your exhaust gasket is covered in oil too

If you think it is oil you should be performing a compression test first before you assume it's a valve seal

 

[AWD-Tony]

It’s hard to see from the pic but the valve on the right was wet and carbon build up is obvious. The upper part of that valves shaft was wet also and not like the others. I did a dry compression test a few weeks ago. 110 115 115 120. I’m doing a wet compression test and leakdown test shortly.

 

[streetraceboi]

You don't need to remove the head to replace valve stem seals. Simply buy the valve spring compressor tool, swap out the seals, replace needed items that show age..and call it a day

http://www.euroexportinc.com/mitsubishi-4g63-valve-spring-compressor

 

[AWD-Tony]

Oil in the exhaust ports on the head is almost always valve seals leaking. Is your car burning oil / blowing blue smoke out of the back while driving, after sitting at idle for a while, or on start up? If so, it's more than likely your valve seals.

The white deposits on the valves is carbon buildup. It's normal. It appears the one valve is wet, but in the photo it's hard to tell. If it is, then it's for sure valve seals. They can be replaced without removing the head. But it's a PITA.

Price will vary. I have had my valve seals changed, a good mill, and a hot tank all for 100 bucks. It's not a bad job really.

Here is the long part of it all:

You are going to need the head machined. The block should be fine. You will however need to use a composite head gasket. Not an MLS.

You will need to clean the block surface well. There are different methods to do this. Some gasket remover, a plastic scraper (or razor blade if you are careful) and some brake cleaner. I have used the yellow finger rolloc disk with good luck. You need to use this very very lightly though.

If using stock head bolts currently, you will want to get a set of ARP head studs. The stock bolts can not be reused. You will also need the thread chaser (not tap) made by ARP to clean the threads in the block. This is a must. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

At this point, you may want to replace the timing belt and components such as the water pump, tensioner and pulleys etc. since you will be in there anyways

You will need the timing belt tool kit. It's not too expensive. But you will need it.

If you decide to dive into it we can always help with more information!

Why a composite hg over MLS? Do MLS tend to leak? Thanks

 

[Mauispyder]

Yes unless you also machine the block

 

[AWD-Tony]

Got it. Thanks!

 

[boostdawd]

Just went through this myself. Purchased a 1993 eagle talon tsi with bent valves. Keeping cost in mind I got the head redone with new seals, hot tanked and milling for 140. Got some felpro head studs and headgasket and she's running smooth. The most expensive was the timing components. About 260 or so.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Thanks boostdawd! So safe to say minimum of $500 since I'll want to install arp studs and gates belts.

 

[jakk220]

That is carbon build up on your car, it's not an oil leak

You know how to tell if it's an oil leak? The inside of your exhaust housing has oil in it too. And your exhaust gasket is covered in oil too

If you think it is oil you should be performing a compression test first before you assume it's a valve seal

You can clearly see oil on the valve and on the exhaust port. At this point is it a huge deal like your pictures? No. But its still a leak none the less. If he has the time and money to do it now then why wait until it gets worse?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Most likely taking the head off the end of this year and do tbelt & components at the same time. Time to start putting change in the piggy bank

 

[TermTrky]

Mine had oil all over the valve on #3 (I think). It seeped oil out of the exhaust manifold it was so bad and separately seeped from the stud that goes into an oil passage. And cam seals. It was not drivable (burnt oil smell). It needed to be addressed. Quite a bit of smoke at idle ! I took the head to the machine shop. Went with arp head studs, did a ton of maintenance all throughout, and I am so glad I pulled it all apart ! I fixed so many issues in one project. It doesn't smoke a bit anymore. 192k on the block even. It's not very difficult. Just time consuming ! However it was easy to spend $1400 on that project and I performed all of the work minus machine work. I put 100 miles on it and loved it so much I yanked the transmission to rebuild it.

 

[chrysler kid]

If you feel like performing the hardest job on the car feel free to do it.

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[streetraceboi]

Its only the hardest job if you make it the hardest job. Changing the valve seals is pretty straight forward with the EuroexportINC valve spring compressor tool. Just buy the seals, $25-$30...the tool ($75 worth of using it again or resell), the timing belt kit...and be done with it. No need to remove the cylinder head if you don't need to. If it aint broke, don't fix it. When buying the Gates timing belt component kit, tensioner, and mentioned parts above. You shouldnt spend much more than around $250 or less...give or take