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Valve Stem Issues

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camas90gsx

10+ Year Contributor
234
0
Jul 16, 2011
seaside, Oregon
Hey guys, just needed some advice. I have done some research and think I have valve stem seal issues. Over the last 48 hours my car has been having a blue/white smoke at idle. It doesnt smell like coolant at all, so after my research, and because its just at idle, I think it might be valve stem seals. Ive done my FMIC, Turbo, Exhaust Manifold, O2 etc on my own, so is this something that I should be able to do, or is it a way bigger job than any of those? If I do a diy what type of cost am I looking at as opposed to taking it to a shop? Since this just started over the last 48 hours, is it okay to be driving her around for the time being until I can get her fixed. It seems to be driving better than ever, finally got her air/fuel ratio all figured out and shes boosting hard. The only issue is the smoking at idle. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
 
Check your turbo for shaft play first.The valve stem seal job is a pretty big job.You have to pull the valve cover remove the timing covers line up all of the timing marks.Then you have to use the timing tensioner tool to loosen the tension take the timing belt off.Then loosen all of the cam caps take the cams out then after those are out you need to remove the rocker arms and maybe take the lifters out for extra room.After that there is a tool made by euro export that compresses the valve springs then take the keepers out,then the spring and the valve seal is underneath the spring.A lot people use compressed air in the spark plug hole unless you plan to remove the head.When you are all done you put the cams in with the timing marks lined up and use the cam gear holder tool and put it back together.
 
Yup, that sounds like your valve stem seals. If the turbo oil seal was blown, you would be shooting out a ton of smoke while driving. You can try running thicker oil, I've heard that can help them to stop leaking but don't take my word on that.

If you take it to a shop, expect to pay at least 500 dollars in labor. You can replace the valve stem seals with the head on the car but it's a lot easier with it off. I've replaced valve stem seals both ways and trying to do it with the head on the car is just really annoying.

My suggestion to you would be to save up and get a new composite head gasket, valve stem seals and ARP headstuds and knock it all out in a day. Do it on a weekday in case you have to get the head cleaned and machined. I'm about to do this exact procedure in the next couple weeks because mine are leaking as well. If you want, I can do a write up for you.
 
I actually just replaced mines. I had a smoke problem at idle, said it was a blown headgasket/valve stems/etc. Found out that my head was cracked. It's easy if you have the right tools, if you don't then I don't even recommend doing it. The most time consuming it the timing belt job. Tools you would are the timing belt kit (Jay's Racing) and a valve spring compressor that is compatible with our engine. In conclusion, if you got time I would DIY and it will save you money.
 
Yup, that sounds like your valve stem seals. If the turbo oil seal was blown, you would be shooting out a ton of smoke while driving. You can try running thicker oil, I've heard that can help them to stop leaking but don't take my word on that.

If you take it to a shop, expect to pay at least 500 dollars in labor. You can replace the valve stem seals with the head on the car but it's a lot easier with it off. I've replaced valve stem seals both ways and trying to do it with the head on the car is just really annoying.

My suggestion to you would be to save up and get a new composite head gasket, valve stem seals and ARP headstuds and knock it all out in a day. Do it on a weekday in case you have to get the head cleaned and machined. I'm about to do this exact procedure in the next couple weeks because mine are leaking as well. If you want, I can do a write up for you.

I have a question to ask you when you did them with the head on the car did you use compressed air in the cylinders?I might have to do mine too.
 
Yeah, I used compressed air with a spark plug adapter. I did one cylinder at a time and put the piston at the top of it's stroke so in case the cylinder lost pressure, I didn't loose the valve.

The thing about doing it this way is it will save you a lot of money and time depending on if the engine has two heads or not. I would 100% recommend doing it this way if your working on a V6 or V8 (Especially a 3000gt) but with our engines its just easier to take the head off.

A little trick I learned that saves me a TON of time is to use clips to hold the timing belt on the cam gears and just unbolt the gears and let them sit out of the way while you're taking off the head. This way you don't have to mess with any of the timing. It's really easy to mess up the timing though so you need to be very careful when doing it. Worse case scenario is you have to redo the timing, best case: you save a bunch of time.
 
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Thanks guys,as a matter of fact i just changed my oil 2 weeks ago and switched to royal purple 5w30 so maybe that could be it.My oil pressure seems to run a bit lower than with 10w30 but not alot different and not that it was too high to begin with.Any reccomendations on what would be an ideal weight for this situation.Like i said i am running stronger and better than ever in the last two days,not that the oil would make a world of difference anyway,it was mostly due to running too rich before and i switched to evo 560's and got a super strong dd as a result.I'll change the oil to what y'all suggest and see if that helps and if not ill go ahead and do the head gasket,studs,timing belt and possibly cams all at the same time.Seems like it would be a good time to do stage2 cams and gears since that was next on my mod list any ways.Luckily i've got some time off coming up and some extra money coming as well.Cant wait to see the wifes expression when she hears that that is where the bonus money is going,ehh.
 
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