GT35R .63 or .82?

[GloriousDSM]

I've got headwork but not enough for a 35R im sure, still a 2.0, and i need to update my profile as soon as I scoop up my turbo and fuel setup. I'm thinkin 30R will suite me just fine.

 

[pneumo]

I've got headwork but not enough for a 35R im sure, still a 2.0, and i need to update my profile as soon as I scoop up my turbo and fuel setup. I'm thinkin 30R will suite me just fine.

I agree. One of the 30R turbos makes a good match for a stockish motor.

 

[diambo4life]

I have a GT35 with the .63 housing on a 2.0 motor. I get 5 psi on the freeway, that's at about 3300rpm, which is plenty of power to pass.


If your redline is still 7500rpm then you better have a stroker motor or else you won't be able to take advantage of the power that the GT35 can make.

I thought you had a 3065 on your car.

 

[rhamlinii]

I have a GT35 with the .63 housing on a 2.0 motor. I get 5 psi on the freeway, that's at about 3300rpm, which is plenty of power to pass.


If your redline is still 7500rpm then you better have a stroker motor or else you won't be able to take advantage of the power that the GT35 can make.

That's not true at all, it depends on the setup in general. We have turbo cars that you dont have to rev the piss out of them to make power. A 35r isn't a gt4201r. That turbo in our car's gets full boost but 6500 in 3rd on a 2.0 5spd car from experience. Even with SMIM's peak power still come in by 8000 on just about every 35r setup i've seen. You dont have to rev them any higher than that. On my 35r w/.82 hotside, I could easily get away with the a 7500 readline with the stock intake manifold and 272/272 cams. I just didn't have any torgue, untill 4500-5500, and that's what killed it for me. The 30r i have now is a great compromise between a 20g (best turbo of all time) and the 35r ( best streetable high awhp turbo of all time). I also get full boost (2.0 BAR) a little under 5 grand, with my cam gears dial in.

 

[DSM90AWD]

As orig posted HERE, you can see that on a modified Honda 2L there is still a pretty measurable difference btw the 30R and 35R even with a "reasonable" Redline (e.g. <=8K):

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Note that the sucess of any turbo setup in a race has much to do with the RPM and Tork falloff btw shifts (note the HUGE gap < 6K) which is another reason to rev higher with a larger Turbo A/R (or buying a tranny that can shift )

 

[pneumo]

That's not true at all, it depends on the setup in general. We have turbo cars that you dont have to rev the piss out of them to make power. A 35r isn't a gt4201r. That turbo in our car's gets full boost but 6500 in 3rd on a 2.0 5spd car from experience. Even with SMIM's peak power still come in by 8000 on just about every 35r setup i've seen. You dont have to rev them any higher than that. On my 35r w/.82 hotside, I could easily get away with the a 7500 readline with the stock intake manifold and 272/272 cams. I just didn't have any torgue, untill 4500-5500, and that's what killed it for me. The 30r i have now is a great compromise between a 20g (best turbo of all time) and the 35r ( best streetable high awhp turbo of all time). I also get full boost (2.0 BAR) a little under 5 grand, with my cam gears dial in.

I don't know if you noticed, but the first sentence you wrote completely disagrees with what I wrote, then your last three sentences seem to agree with what I said. I just thought it was odd.


Maybe I should explain a little better? What I mean when I said 'If your redline is still 7500rpm then... you won't be able to take advantage of the power that the GT35 can make." is that a GT35 doesn't have much low end and just begins to spool in the mid range. With a stock redline you'll fall out of boost when you shift gears. It'll feel like a huge laggy turbo everytime you change gears because the revs will drop too far and you'll have to wait until the revs climb for the turbo to re-spool again. This is the exact reason I went to the dyno, did some research, and posted this thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261093
Even though my car makes peak hp at 7200rpm I still needed to shift well over 8k to get the most out of it. For anyone who's clicking on the link above, make sure to scroll down to post #15 to see the results of raising my shift points. I ended up shifting at 9k for the 1>2 shift, the 2>3 shift was at 8800rpm, and the 3>4 shift at 8300rpm.

Hi Diambo, no 3065 here. I went from a 50 trim to a 14b to a GT35.

 

[rhamlinii]

I don't know if you noticed, but the first sentence you wrote completely disagrees with what I wrote, then your last three sentences seem to agree with what I said. I just thought it was odd.


Maybe I should explain a little better? What I mean when I said 'If your redline is still 7500rpm then... you won't be able to take advantage of the power that the GT35 can make." is that a GT35 doesn't have much low end and just begins to spool in the mid range. With a stock redline you'll fall out of boost when you shift gears. It'll feel like a huge laggy turbo everytime you change gears because the revs will drop too far and you'll have to wait until the revs climb for the turbo to re-spool again. This is the exact reason I went to the dyno, did some research, and posted this thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261093
Even though my car makes peak hp at 7200rpm I still needed to shift well over 8k to get the most out of it. For anyone who's clicking on the link above, make sure to scroll down to post #15 to see the results of raising my shift points. I ended up shifting at 9k for the 1>2 shift, the 2>3 shift was at 8800rpm, and the 3>4 shift at 8300rpm.

Hi Diambo, no 3065 here. I went from a 50 trim to a 14b to a GT35.

I see what your saying, I never felt that way about my 35r when I raced my car. I did however feel that way about the 60-1 I had. When I had a 35r on my car, I was able to shift and never fall out of boost when I "raced". That's all that ever matters to me. I never count the time when I would shift slow and then get into the next gear for another pull. My car just wasn't fu to drive so I see what you mean. That's with the stock springs at a 7500k rpm limit. I only have ungraded retainers and cams w/ gears. My head is done, but never thought about going bigger then a 20g/50 trim untill then. With my current 30r it's perfect, and I will push the car up to 8k now that I have the an smim.

 

[toddmeunier]

I'm running a 0.82AR with a stock 7.8:1 block and stock 1G head with stock shimmed springs , stock intake manifold and 272's. It definitely spools a lot slower than the bolt on GT30R but the top end is not even close to being comparable. It is fine for the street for me but it is not a daily driver.

 

[rhamlinii]

I'm running a 0.82AR with a stock 7.8:1 block and stock 1G head with stock shimmed springs , stock intake manifold and 272's. It definitely spools a lot slower than the bolt on GT30R but the top end is not even close to being comparable. It is fine for the street for me but it is not a daily driver.

That's because you have to look at effective compression ratio. My car when it had a stock blook and 272/272 was lazy with a 60-1. After I got some cam gears and took out some of the duration it was a different car altogether. My head at the time also had been milled which increased my base compression ratio. For the few month I had it with the 35r, I HAD BETTER BOOST RESPONSE WITH THE 35R THEN THE 60-1. I then sold it and got a 20g with a built motor and some nitrous. Torgue to me feels so much better then horse power, althought they felt very clsoe from 100 mph on. Below that, nothing feels like a 20g with a 100 shot. I now have the punk ass gt30, which is slower. I may spray this setup soon.