GSTwithPSI Galant VR4 1837 of 2000

[19gsx91]

Yeah that looks a bit more like my bay, It's still an incredible transformation. There was a set of 264/272 HKS cams up for sale for a reasonable price on the classifieds section recently if you were willing to try those out.

 

[GST with PSI]

I swapped a 4 bolt LSD into the 4WS pumpkin last year, and all was good. In the last few weeks though, I've noticed some noise coming from the rear diff. It was strange, because it only happened when I was taking off from a stop at super low RPM after when the diff gets warm. If the car was cold, it wouldn't do it. So, instead of f***ing with the ring and pinion, I just decided to swap in another 4 bolt. In addition, I came to the realization that I hate how the 4WS makes the car feel so unsettled in a high speed sweeper, so I figured now was the time to delete all that crap.

I'll start out by saying I was on a tight timeline to get this done. I've got too many projects, and not enough time and space to tend to them all. I would have liked to weld the trailing arms and install new subframe bushings, but I just didn't have the luxury of waiting around on parts for this particular project. Not to mention, I would have also liked to completely delete all the 4WS crap, but again, didn't have the time to pull the car apart and remove all the bits. I'd chalk this up as a sudo-4WS delete for lazy/busy people.

There is one main concern when deleting the 4WS (if you ask me anyways), which is deciding what to do with the high pressure output lines that run to the rear rack. I found the easiest solution was to just plug the lines right where they dip down from the rack under the car. I came up with a quick and easy solution for this, which basically entailed hacking off the end of the hydraulic line, and converting the fitting into a plug. I was unable to find a legit plug anywhere, so as far as I know, this is your only option.



Here's the feed lines where they dip down below the car. Take the soft hydraulic lines loose, and remove them from the car. Have a pan handy, because these are going to piss power steering fluid everywhere...A lot of PS fluid.

Once the line is off the car, hack off the end with a grinding wheel. Once you do, you should have a steel fitting that's ready to weld. Take a welder and just tack the center closed. Once it's welded closed, you've now got a nice little plug to cap the PS lines off with.

After the lines were capped off, I dropped the rear subframe, and removed all the other 4WS crap. I left the return lines in place, since they snake all the way up under the hood, and deleting them completely would be a major ass pain. I just used a small piece of hose and loop them together at the rear of the car.

Now, the crappy part. CLEAN EVERYTHING. I used a wire wheel, Simple Green, and tons of elbow grease. The subframe got cleaned and rust proofed. The underbody got cleaned as well, then got Rust Bullet, then rubberized undercoating. The Rust Bullet really wasn't required since there wasn't any actual rust to treat, but I've found it to be super durable, and prefer it for coating parts under the chassis.

After everything was dry, I bolted in the subframe.

Lastly, removed all the 4WS decals so I wouldn't be a poser.

I still have a few things left to button up. I need to install the axles, brakes, exhaust and suspension. I got tired of crawling around on the ground like some kind of retarded fat snake though, so it will have to wait until next week.

Time for a beer!

 

[d1prospect]

Nice clean work man. Keep it up

 

[lasershark]

Great work as always. Probably my most favorite vr4 I have seen beautified.

 

[GST with PSI]

I swapped a 4 bolt LSD into the 4WS pumpkin last year, and all was good. In the last few weeks though, I've noticed some noise coming from the rear diff. It was strange, because it only happened when I was taking off from a stop at super low RPM after when the diff gets warm. If the car was cold, it wouldn't do it. So, instead of f***ing with the ring and pinion, I just decided to swap in another 4 bolt.

Yeah...Well turns out the rear end wasn't my problem after all.

 

[lasershark]

Well that's one way to find a broken U-joint... Bummer

 

[Dsmkauai]

Ooh nasty

 

[faqinshiet]

DSS driveshaft?

 

[GST with PSI]

I started looking at my options to repair my driveshaft, and came to the conclusion an OEM rebuild just isn't worth the time and effort to me. After pricing out what it would cost to do the rebuild, I decided to go with a DSS aluminum unit. For a little under $300 bucks extra, I could not only upgrade to the DSS shaft, but more importantly, eliminate over half of the work it takes to do rebuild the OEM shaft. The extra work the OEM R&R requires was honestly the biggest influencing factor in upgrading. I still had to rebuild the back half of the OEM shaft, and after doing so, I'm so f***ing glad I decided no to rebuild the whole thing. It's a a super time consuming and labor intensive task.

Here's the pricing breakdown:

DSS upgrade=
DSS 3.5" HD Aluminum driveshaft for the Galant VR-4: $767.48 shipped from ExtremePSI
1 transfer Case yoke kit (becuz 1 U-joint MR470072) and 1 carrier bearing (1G DSM/GVR4 MB505495): $142.31 shipped from JNZtuning

Total: 909.79 (actual price paid, shipping included)


OEM rebuild=
Driveshaft rebuild kit (1G DSM/Galant VR4): $382.48
OEM lobro joint kit-DSM & Galant VR-4 (becuz the boot kit alone is basically NLA MB837300) $245.99

Total: 628.47 (Shipping/tax/whatever NOT included)

So, as I said, it was only going to cost me a little under $300 to upgrade. Now, if your lobro joint and boot is in good shape, you can save another $250 bucks, at which point an OEM rebuild is looking more financially beneficial. However, if you're like me and just need a new boot, you're f***ed, since the boot kits alone are NLA. So, you're either going to have to be fine with the the lobro throwing grease everywhere and getting trashed in the process from contamination, or you're buying a new lobro joint...That $900 bucks sounding better yet, or naw?

Moving on to the time factor; any way you cut it, an OEM rebuild sucks balls. It took me approximately 2 hours to completely clean and rebuild the rear shaft alone. I also have a press, air tools, and everything required to make the job go quickly. That's for 1 U-joint and 1 carrier. I'd say you're looking at nearly triple that time for the entire shaft, assuming you have a nicely equipped garage.

With the DSS, you rebuild the rear shaft, bolt it in the car, then bolt the DSS shaft to the rear shaft via DSS's adapter plate. Done. The only other thing I'll mention here is the DSS shaft is 3.5" in diameter. If you have aftermarket exhaust on your Galant and it's anywhere near the factory driveshaft, you're going to run into clearance issues. I'm running the 3" CM performance exhaust system, and I slightly clearanced my cat and the down/mid pipe flange. If you're running a home brew system the snakes close to the OEM shaft, I'd highly recommend you taking some measurements prior to buying the DSS shaft.



Anyways, here are some pics of the new DS and the other stuff required to do the conversion:

Here's the OEM shaft compared to the DSS aluminum unit. The rear 3rd OEM shaft is reused:

Now that you've got the stock shaft out, you need to separate the new U-joint from the T-case yolk. Rinse and repeat x2 if you're rebuilding the OEM shaft.

Once you've got all your parts together, it's just a matter of cleaning and reassembly. The one thing I'll mention with this is the U-joint snap rings. It can be a pain to get 2 snap rings of the proper thickness to seat. You obviously don't want the U-joint super tight, nor do you want it all limp dick. Finding a happy medium with the limited amount of snap rings you're provided can be a challenge, and the trial and error associated with this is probably the most time consuming part of the job. Jafro has an awesome video series on this whole process, and I'd highly recommend watching it if this is your first time screwing with the DS: DSM Drivetrain & Clutch Tech by Jafro

2 hours later, here's what you get:

So, how does the new driveshaft feel and perform you ask?!?

Couldn't f***ing tell ya.

The driveshaft was drop shipped from DSS, and they sent me the wrong adapter plate. So, all the parts I had expedited to finish the job THIS WEEKEND was just time, money, and effort wasted. Hell, another week JSB status is small time shit anyways. Nobody buys a VR-4 because they actually want to drive it

I'll update the thread when (or if) I ever get the right adapter plate.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Lol dang bro . So what happens to the lobro with the dss unit? Does it become solid or somthing?
I actually used a tool instead of the press and my rebuild was so much easier. I was able to skip the lobro thankfully and just cleaned and relubed. With the tool I used removal and install is a breeze. I also have a tool for my air hammer that helps drive on and off the ujoints so much faster/eaiser Really helps you get the to the right spot for the snap ring. It was something just like this can't rem the brand.

 

[19gsx91]

I'm running the 3" CM performance exhaust system, and I slightly clearanced my cat and the down/mid pipe flange.

That made me laugh quite hard, I can't remember what video I watched or where it was but someone else needed to clearance as well.. cue the BFH. Ohh that made my day, and I just spent the past 4 hours installing an MTX-L where my AEM was.. would've taken an hour and a half. but the MTXL doesn't unplug from the back and that took some massaging. You have home access to a press?

 

[GST with PSI]

I also have a tool for my air hammer that helps drive on and off the ujoints so much faster/eaiser Really helps you get the to the right spot for the snap ring.

You don't want to use an air hammer for installing U-joints. Using it to remove them would be fine, so long as you're not reusing any of the parts. The only way I can see to do this job quicker would be with a pneumatic hydraulic press, but then you lose the ability to feel the U-joint seat. I'm confident when I say an OEM driveshaft rebuild would take the average dude 6+ hours if you're doing everything right. If you half ass it and slop a bunch of dirty parts back together with new U-joints, sure, you could do it faster. But, if you're taking the time to clean, inspect, and reassemble everything properly, you've got your work cut out for you.

That made me laugh quite hard, I can't remember what video I watched or where it was but someone else needed to clearance as well.. cue the BFH. Ohh that made my day, and I just spent the past 4 hours installing an MTX-L where my AEM was.. would've taken an hour and a half. but the MTXL doesn't unplug from the back and that took some massaging. You have home access to a press?

I just used a grinder to remove a very small amount of material where required. I probably could have gotten away with leaving it alone, but I wanted to have some extra space for piece of mind.

I've found the Innovate WB units work much better with ECMlink. I've always preferred them to any other WB, so I'm sure you'll be happy with the end product even though it was a pain to install.

And yes, I have a small Harbor Freight press at home. It's great for small jobs like pressing U-joints, wheel bearings, and so forth.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Ya mainly use it to remove them, it works so good. Just vibrates them right off. Mine came out perfect thx to jnz's parts I used the big c clamp that's in the kit and clamped it down in my big vise. Made things so much faster and smoother. Painting's what took the longest, the rest was a breeze.

 

[GST with PSI]

I had some issues getting the correct adapter from DSS, who sent the wrong one initially. For this specific transaction, I wasn't terribly satisfied with the customer service I received from either DSS or from ExtremePSI, who I originally placed the order with. But, I got the right parts eventually, which I guess is what matters in the end. If any of you guys are ordering a DSS driveshaft in the future, shoot me a PM prior and I'll make sure you get the correct info for the correct parts from the jump. Here's the adapter I was initially sent. Looks like a good fit, right?

Anyways, after I got the right adapter plate, installation was a breeze. DSS truly makes a nice product:

The DSS driveshaft performs just as you would expect. It's velvety smooth, zero vibration, and feels great overall. Honestly, I've noticed very little difference between this and the stock driveshaft. But, I haven't launched the car yet on the aluminum driveshaft yet, where I expect I'll actually feel the most difference.

There are definitely some downsides to the DSS piece. For starters, it's 3.5" in diameter, which means it will hit shit that your stock driveshaft didn't even come close to. For me, that meant trimming back some heat shielding and exhaust bits.

Secondly, and probably the most annoying, the DSS driveshaft is a 5+ foot long piece of hollow aluminum tubing...Which apparently means every tiny little noise your driveline made prior to installing this thing will be amplified a million times over. I had a slight tapping noise on decel only at low speed, and spent nearly 2 days trying to figure out what the hell it was. From inside the car, I swore it was the rear end. I ended up tracking it down to the trans itself, which seems to be a bit noisy on decel. I just never noticed it on the stock driveshaft. At first I was a bit worried, but after getting the car up on a lift, and inspecting the driveline while running it at speed in gear, there's absolutely no issues or vibrations. All the joints are tight, and the driveline is functioning as it should, but the audible harmonics amplified by the DSS driveshaft are very pronounced. Bottom line, expect a bit of noise unless your driveline is minty fresh.



After I got the car back together, the wifey and I took it to go grab a beer and a bite at this new place in the Island. Good stuff!

 

[mavericktsi83]

I would add that the biggest issue with the DSS piece is that it is not an upgrade from a strength or longevity perspective—it’s a downgrade. While they rate it @ “650hp” (not accurate whatsoever) they use 1310 joints and a POS Ford Ranger yoke which pretty much twists instantly and is expensive to replace. Not to mention the length/spline engagement is incorrect. In any case, the stock 3-piece shaft is indeed stronger and requires less servicing in the long run than this particular shaft.

 

[GST with PSI]

I would add that the biggest issue with the DSS piece is that it is not an upgrade from a strength or longevity perspective—it’s a downgrade. While they rate it @ “650hp” (not accurate whatsoever) they use 1310 joints and a POS Ford Ranger yoke which pretty much twists instantly and is expensive to replace. Not to mention the length/spline engagement is incorrect. In any case, the stock 3-piece shaft is indeed stronger and requires less servicing in the long run than this particular shaft.

From a strength perspective, I guess you could look at it either way. I've seen cars making north of 650hp on stock driveshafts without issue. However, I've also seen multiple builds pushing off the shelf DSS driveshafts past that, to include the current Galant VR-4 1/4 record holder. There are other DSM builds using custom DSS shafts with good results as well, to include the Red Demon.

Regarding longevity, the DSS unit eliminates 1 carrier bearing, 1 u-joint, and the lobro joint. Unless the U-joints DSS uses are complete crap and wear out or break twice as much as OEM, this should eliminate at least 3 additional points of failure/service.

What makes you say the length/spline engagement on the yoke is incorrect? It's nearly identical to the OEM yoke as far as I could tell?

 

[GST with PSI]

GST with PSI updated GSTwithPSI's Galant VR4 #1837/2000

Mod list updated.

View updates to this DSM profile...

 

[mavericktsi83]

I am only commenting on this particular DSS shaft setup and not those used by Red Demon and others that use a different yoke and joints or automatic transmissions, etc. Those appear to work as advertised.

It has been well documented that this configuration simply does not hold up—one good launch is all it takes with regard to the supplied yoke based off the Ranger C3 25-spline. This yoke costs ~$175 to replace vs. the stronger OEM Mitsu at ~$35 that is far less prone to twist anyway. The off-the-shelf “650hp” shaft is 1/2” to 1” inch too short which makes problems worse. They market it well but, in reality it is problematic and inferior to the OEM 3-piece, in crucial aspects.

 

[GST with PSI]

You do realize the Galant VR-4 DSS driveshaft is built to completely different specifications than the 1G DSM "off the shelf" version, right? The GVR-4 version is equivalent to the DSM HD version. Although, I believe they use the same U-joints/yoke, so it may be moot regarding your point.

If this is a well documented problem, can you link to said documentation? Not calling you out, but I've legitimately never seen a problem with any of the DSM applications. I'm genuinely curious to know if there's an issue with these.

 

[GST with PSI]

Maxed out my 2 bar boost gauge.

#lifegoals

 

[19gsx91]

How's it pulling/acting with the 68hta at that boost level? That car has to be a blast to drive!

 

[GST with PSI]

How's it pulling/acting with the 68hta at that boost level? That car has to be a blast to drive!

The car is quicker than it has ever been. Sooner or later I'll get back to the track and see exactly how much quicker.

Peak boost is right at 30 psi, which drops off to 27-28 psi @ redline. I'm logging 49 lb/min at this boost level on E85. I expect that number to go up a bit when I install the set of HKS cams I picked up.

I'm still tweaking the tune a bit, and hope to add some more updates to the 68HTA thread soon.



On an unrelated note, I picked up a new set of door decals. Not a terribly exciting update, but the more I wrench on this car, the more I realize it's the little things that bring the build full circle, and really set the car apart.

I picked the set up from a seller on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151331909220?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

His ad said he used 3M material, which I wanted. The decals were really high quality, and the color I picked looks absolutely amazing on the car. He even shipped a squeegee with the decals which was awesome. The only complaint I have was the decals were mirror images of one another, and that's not how they appear on the car from the factory. To fix this, you have to cut one of the decals, and place the "Intercooler Turbo" in front of the rest of the decal. I just copied the spacing from the correct decal, and used a small piece of tape to make everything line up. In the end, it turned out awesome:

Old stuff removed:

New stuff installed. I opted not to install the 4WS portion of the decal, since I deleted it from this car.

 

[d1prospect]

Very clean man.

 

[GST with PSI]

No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't really get the little line to show up on camera. You can just barely see it right at the 85% mark if you look really close.

I'm looking forward to testing the fuel at a few different stations, and also seeing how the winter blends in my area vary. For now, I'm glad I got decent juice in the tank!

The car has been running great. Just passed 1,000 miles on the motor. Next up, cams and making the swap to SD.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Looking really good bro. Can't wait till mine looks this clean . Hey are you running a spacer in the rear? I really like the stance and wheels. Looks killer on the white.