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Greddy rs BOV leaking at idle

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TravisHunter

Probationary Member
9
0
Jan 30, 2019
Knoxville, Tennessee
Not to beat a dead horse or anything but my ive been trying to get my idle rite. Took off throttle body replaced tps replaced iac took off the freeze out plug and disabled the fiav valve plugs wires ect. Harmonic Balancer took a crap on me replaced that and it idle pretty good but I notice the greddy rs type bov was leaking at idle blowing air out. If I adjust all the way to hard it shuts it off at idle but I get considerable less power when driving the car. I am pretty sure the bov is bad but figured I would ask around before I spent the money on a new one. It shouldnt leak at idle rite. When pressure testing It comes out he cone of the bov and the biss screw which i will fix today with oring.
 
at idle a leaking bov will not blow air out. your intake is in a state of vacuum; you are sucking air in including any dust or whatever is in your engine bay.

when you say it shuts off at idle when you adjust all the way to hard, what is "it"?
adjusting the bov increases the static tension on the spring, allowing you to change where it will open at idle and cruise. it should be just closed at idle but on engine brake deceleration it will open because the vacuum signal is so strong and usually about 25inHg from my experience.
having it set to hard leaves the possibility it will not open on low boost throttle closings

as your bov is adjustable, perhaps take it apart 8f you are mechanically inclined. something may not look right.
 
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It being the metal plunger that is inside the bov idle is wierd but if I hold that down with my finger the idle will smooth out its leaking air into the piping but wierdly you can feel it blowing air out I think its a bad seal but I opened it up and it looks fine. Sometimes it will boost fine others it will lag and almost want to die on me when I decel surging I guess Im pretty sure it is the bov just figure I would ask thanks for the input
 
the entire intake is not pressurized at idle as the turbo produces no positive pressure. it is a simple physical impossibility for air to be blowing out of your bov at idle. a simple smoke test via even an incense stick would illustrate this (and make the inside of your engine smell nice)
the only way i can see a positive pressure being produced is if you had such bad intake cam timing that it opened your intake valves on the ignition or power stroke. but your engine wouldnt run at all.



a loss of power during acceleration could mean your bov is faulty enough where it cannot stay closed and youre losing boost pressure. what does your boost guage say? your open loop would also be very lean. what does your wbo2 say?

take the bov apart.. there may be something wrong inside.
 
I think someone tried the one spring mod on it there is only one spring inside the BOV I believe theres supposed to be two. . Boost gauge is hooked up to manifold and is reading 10-12psi wot then when I clutch in it goes to -20 -10 to car almost dies-back to normal -18ish that is surging correct I can hear the bov whistling at me at idle but ive read mixed things about that it is a greddy rs I dont think a bov should make any noise at idle isnt that a vaccum leak. I ordered a new bov and Ill put it on and post what happens. My obd2 scanner comes on and tries to connect to computer but says not able to connect... the engine light went away after I reset the battery and hasnt come back on. It makes a queefy blow off as well side note LOL
 
No I have aftermarket intake and no hole to plumb into. The cheap O ebay DNA Racing BOV came in this morning {ps sounds just like the greddy but doesnt leak} Now when it {ebay bov}starts to leak I will steal a spring and try to put the greddy back on. I put it on a viola no more vaccum surge when I let off and it doesnt want to die at all LOL. My idle is still wierd its like the IAC is acting up on a honda I did just do a little coolant hose above the oil filter {that was a bitc#} I bled it once but I bet there is still air in it Ill bleed again once cools down but I remember my starion doing the same thing when the coolant wasnt bled all the way.There is no coolant to tB its just capped off FIAV is adjusted all the way out clockwise It is smoother when full temp Kinda janky when cold. Idle vaccum is around 18-20 now and when I clutch in on a hard boost It will go to -25ish then to -17 not sure if that matter just stating. Also has about the power I would expect from this car I am used to corvettes so its doesnt feel like them but a fun little car.



On a side note my wastegate aftermarket tial is opening {my guess??} at 10psi sometimes and that is all the booost I get {4500-6000rpms} and others It will go to 12-14
 
I'm assuming you don't have ECMlink, and please correct me if you do. Without a recirculating BOV you'll be running really rich. I don't believe it would cause your idle problems but definitely something to note going into the future.
 
Nope this ecu is a stocker I want to say opened it up and only thing that looks outta place is the microchip in middle but its probly stock and some weird ground soldered together I will add pics
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