ECMlink Global fuel wayyy off

[We're on Boost]

Based on these logs, I suspect your FIAV is bad. As the ISC goes from all the way open down to where it should be, RPM goes up. The only way to have RPM go up like that is for more air to enter the intake manifold. I can only think of a FIAV doing that.

Yep and in post 34 he says he still has the FIAV in it. So that's likely the main problem. Too bad you can't bypass-plate the 1990 throttle body.

Side note I have a 1990 throttle body with my ISC and FIAV still

 

[lololobster]

yes i do have the FIAV still, ill probably end up welding it if i need to

You are getting FrontO2 cycling back and forth in closed loop like you should except that it is cycling around what it thinks is 13 AFR. That's wrong, it should be cycling around AFR of about 14.7. That might be because you are still using 2.49 volts for the WB switch point. Or it could be wrong scaling all together. When you are using the 30-2310 scaling you should use a WB switch point of 3.12 volts.

as for the wideband this gauge was pulled from an already tuned car and the gauge was previously setup for 2.49, this doesnt mean its correct but i had a very reputable dsm tuner in my area handle it and i believe it was done correctly, either way i did try it and it only seemed to jump around more.


for the first log with updated timing tables everything was the same, the car idled nicely until 125 when the isc started "opening" and rpm started to raise

i then decided to swap my ISC with another unit i have and started the second "ALMOST" log, i think its very close and IM SURE THE ISC WAS AN ISSUE as right when i restarted i could see the rpm drop along with the ISC, however the BISS is still completely shut and it was about 100 rpm too high, could be negligible with the slightly bigger cams but im not sure.

i also reverified timing with a light to be at 5 degrees BTDC

 

[blue90GSX]

@lololobster, I haven’t looked at your logs but my two cents from experience, if you’re using a 1990 ISC in a 91-99 wired car it will work backwards…it happens because the 1990 ISCs were pinned differently on the plug.

 

[lololobster]

@lololobster, I haven’t looked at your logs but my two cents from experience, if you’re using a 1990 ISC in a 91-99 wired car it will work backwards…it happens because the 1990 ISCs were pinned differently on the plug.

welp that answers that, yes it was a 90 i put in a 95

 

[We're on Boost]

for the first log with updated timing tables everything was the same, the car idled nicely until 125 when the isc started "opening" and rpm started to raise

i then decided to swap my ISC with another unit i have and started the second "ALMOST" log, i think its very close and IM SURE THE ISC WAS AN ISSUE as right when i restarted i could see the rpm drop along with the ISC, however the BISS is still completely shut and it was about 100 rpm too high, could be negligible with the slightly bigger cams but im not sure.

i also reverified timing with a light to be at 5 degrees BTDC

Major improvement, both logs!
In the 1st log, the reduced timing keeps the rpm below 2000 so it doesn't start surging back and forth.
In the 2nd log, much better again with the different ISC.
I'm glad the ISC appears to be a big part of the solution because you can still buy those things new from Rock Auto, good ones, for about $50. The Standard Motor AC146 is good, I've had one in my car for several years. The Wells 2H1098 I believe is also good. I tested one and kept it for a new spare. Not sure about any of the other brands.
Also, if the ISC is doing the right thing, then your ISC drivers in the ecu are probably ok. Phew.

I think @1990TSIAWDTALON came up with a way to close off the 1990 FIAV without disturbing the ISC. I don't know anything about it myself, having never taken one apart. Maybe Marty will see this and have a comment about it. Maybe Stapl3 or someone else knows what to do with it.

The AFR will be something to keep an eye on, because if you are going to use logged AFR values for tuning, you will need to know that they are accurate at high LoadFactors (high power) where you will be wanting an AFR somewhere around 11 probably. It's hard to watch the gauge and the log at the same time when you are driving the car and there's like 400 hp or whatever going on. Dangerous if on the road. The difference between the 2 scalings is a lot at AFR 11. On the scaling you are using, AFR 11 is 1.55 volts. On the 30-4110 scaling, AFR 11 is 0.5 volts. Or to look at it a different way, if you see 1.55 raw volts on the scaling you are using, your log will say AFR is 11, but if the other scaling is actually the correct one, then your real AFR is not 11, it is 13.1. Yikes.

Here's the AFR and lambda to volts table from the 30-4110 user manual. I've put green boxes around the stoic region in the P0 and AFR columns.

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[lololobster]

Major improvement, both logs!
In the 1st log, the reduced timing keeps the rpm below 2000 so it doesn't start surging back and forth.
In the 2nd log, much better again with the different ISC.
I'm glad the ISC appears to be a big part of the solution because you can still buy those things new from Rock Auto, good ones, for about $50. The Standard Motor AC146 is good, I've had one in my car for several years. The Wells 2H1098 I believe is also good. I tested one and kept it for a new spare. Not sure about any of the other brands.
Also, if the ISC is doing the right thing, then your ISC drivers in the ecu are probably ok. Phew.

I think @1990TSIAWDTALON came up with a way to close off the 1990 FIAV without disturbing the ISC. I don't know anything about it myself, having never taken one apart. Maybe Marty will see this and have a comment about it. Maybe Stapl3 or someone else knows what to do with it.

The AFR will be something to keep an eye on, because if you are going to use logged AFR values for tuning, you will need to know that they are accurate at high LoadFactors (high power) where you will be wanting an AFR somewhere around 11 probably. It's hard to watch the gauge and the log at the same time when you are driving the car and there's like 400 hp or whatever going on. Dangerous if on the road. The difference between the 2 scalings is a lot at AFR 11. On the scaling you are using, AFR 11 is 1.55 volts. On the 30-4110 scaling, AFR 11 is 0.5 volts. Or to look at it a different way, if you see 1.55 raw volts on the scaling you are using, your log will say AFR is 11, but if the other scaling is actually the correct one, then your real AFR is not 11, it is 13.1. Yikes.

Here's the AFR and lambda to volts table from the 30-4110 user manual. I've put green boxes around the stoic region in the P0 and AFR columns.

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meaning i should set to 2.37 on narrowband switchpoint? i have at 2.49 currently, i checked the instruction manual that came with the gauge and that is the correct table

also could the bad FIAV cause the bottomed out BISS issue?

 

[We're on Boost]

@lololobster, I haven’t looked at your logs but my two cents from experience, if you’re using a 1990 ISC in a 91-99 wired car it will work backwards…it happens because the 1990 ISCs were pinned differently on the plug.

So true! That little problem swallowed up several days of my life in 2017. Here's my thread about it. My case was the other way around - new ISC for 1991-1999 into a car with 1990 wiring.

 

[We're on Boost]

meaning i should set to 2.37 on narrowband switchpoint? i have at 2.49 currently, i checked the instruction manual that came with the gauge and that is the correct table

Well, if you are going to use the scaling shown in that table, then you should use 2.37 volts for the switch point.
But right now you aren't using the scaling shown in that table.
To know for sure what your scaling looks like, you have to display the Raw value for whatever wideband you are using at the moment. The logged raw voltage and the logged AFR value will match the table for whatever scaling you are using.
Like this, in your July 20-03 log:

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There, got a good pic in there finally.
These numbers, AFR of 13.1 at raw volts of 2.43 fit in with the chart I showed in post 64 which is the scaling you are using.
If you were using the 10-4110 scaling, that 2.43 volts would tell you an AFR of 14.8 about. Gee that's stoic. Which is normally what you'd expect when the FrontO2 is cycling like it is here.

 

[We're on Boost]

also could the bad FIAV cause the bottomed out BISS issue?

Yes, if the FIAV is stuck open or open when it's not supposed to be, then you'd be trying to compensate for it by closing the BISS.

 

[lololobster]

These numbers, AFR of 13.1 at raw volts of 2.43 fit in with the chart I showed in post 64 which is the scaling you are using.
If you were using the 10-4110 scaling, that 2.43 volts would tell you an AFR of 14.8 about. Gee that's stoic. Which is normally what you'd expect when the FrontO2 is cycling like it is here.

i understand now, i didnt realize the scaling change was in the misc tab, none of these preset AEM gauge options on the drop down match it perfectly but the R1 seems to match closest

Yes, if the FIAV is stuck open or open when it's not supposed to be, then you'd be trying to compensate for it by closing the BISS.

i think i may have found a fix, i tried to block off the FIAV by opening the freeze plug on the throttle body and found the FIAV adjustment to be pretty damn stuck, i couldnt move it with pliers on a vice grip, however i removed the little metal supports on the tps to give me more adjustment with the throttle stop

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it seems to have worked pretty well as shown in the log, however i will try again to loosen the fiav adjustment in the future.

 

[We're on Boost]

i understand now, i didnt realize the scaling change was in the misc tab, none of these preset AEM gauge options on the drop down match it perfectly but the R1 seems to match closest

This latest log using "AEM wideband gauge R1" for the connected sensor has AFR numbers more like I would expect to see.
ECMtuning shows a list of suggested switch point voltages. For this R1 scaling they say to use 2.53 volts for the switch point. So changing your switch point to that would be a good next try. Here's the chart:

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That chart came from here.

Have you tried the preset scaling that is just called "AEM wideband gauge"? (in the dropdown pin assignments). I think that is the one that is supposed to match the 30-4110 chart. You would use a 2.34 volt switch point with that one ("AEMWBGauge" in the chart above).

If none of the charts or presets are very good, then we could set up Linear Wideband to do it.
You would get your own voltage numbers at 3 AFR values shown on the gauge.
You would 'Lock in Open Loop' while doing this so that AFR isn't jumping up and down all the time like it does in closed loop.
With it warmed up and locked in open loop, you can twiddle the AFR up and down with the Global Deadtime number, which has a large effect at idle.
You'd probably want to record voltages for gauge readings of 12.0, 14.7, and some lean number like 16.0.
Those are guesses really because it depends on your car running fairly steady at those numbers, not missing or running rough.
So for your linear scaling then, the high and the low numbers would be the 2 points to define the line. They don't have to be the end-points of the line. Just have to be on the line. The voltage at 14.7 AFR would be your switch point.
The Linear Wideband Graph Item Preferences seems to want lambda numbers to define it rather than AFR numbers. So we would need to think a little more about the numbers to use to have convenient lambdas.

Here's the Graph Item Preferences I used at one time for linear wideband. But this was just set up to be identical to the 30-4110 chart. So I didn't have to read my own voltages. I just picked numbers from each end of the chart (top and bottom).

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The wiki here describes the process of fetching your own voltage numbers a little differently than I did - way at the bottom, the last 2 paragraphs!

 

[Justin DuBois]

This latest log using "AEM wideband gauge R1" for the connected sensor has AFR numbers more like I would expect to see.
ECMtuning shows a list of suggested switch point voltages. For this R1 scaling they say to use 2.53 volts for the switch point. So changing your switch point to that would be a good next try. Here's the chart:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

That chart came from here.

Have you tried the preset scaling that is just called "AEM wideband gauge"? (in the dropdown pin assignments). I think that is the one that is supposed to match the 30-4110 chart. You would use a 2.34 volt switch point with that one ("AEMWBGauge" in the chart above).

If none of the charts or presets are very good, then we could set up Linear Wideband to do it.
You would get your own voltage numbers at 3 AFR values shown on the gauge.
You would 'Lock in Open Loop' while doing this so that AFR isn't jumping up and down all the time like it does in closed loop.
With it warmed up and locked in open loop, you can twiddle the AFR up and down with the Global Deadtime number, which has a large effect at idle.
You'd probably want to record voltages for gauge readings of 12.0, 14.7, and some lean number like 16.0.
Those are guesses really because it depends on your car running fairly steady at those numbers, not missing or running rough.
So for your linear scaling then, the high and the low numbers would be the 2 points to define the line. They don't have to be the end-points of the line. Just have to be on the line. The voltage at 14.7 AFR would be your switch point.
The Linear Wideband Graph Item Preferences seems to want lambda numbers to define it rather than AFR numbers. So we would need to think a little more about the numbers to use to have convenient lambdas.

Here's the Graph Item Preferences I used at one time for linear wideband. But this was just set up to be identical to the 30-4110 chart. So I didn't have to read my own voltages. I just picked numbers from each end of the chart (top and bottom).

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The wiki here describes the process of fetching your own voltage numbers a little differently than I did - way at the bottom, the last 2 paragraphs!

I'd like to point out that this "LinWidband" Graph Item Preference - should also be compared to the preference for "AFRatioEst". In the "Final overrides" section, you want your LinWideband AEM prefs and the AFRatioEst prefs to match - min and max plot range. This plot range has nothing to do with the voltage or AFR switch point calibration. It only defines the range of values plotted. Since you are comparing LinWideband to AFRationEst - you want them plotted in the same min-max range.

 

[We're on Boost]

It only defines the range of values plotted. Since you are comparing LinWideband to AFRationEst - you want them plotted in the same min-max range.

Oh I see, this way the AFRatioEst and LinWideband plots would lay right on top of each other when they are giving exactly the same numbers. So it makes it easier to visualize how close they are, easier to see where they are the most different.

 

[lololobster]

ok so i tried the AEMWBGauge option and it didnt match up at all...
the R1 is definitely closest
either way i just ordered an LC2 to put an end to this the tenths position is almost gone on the gauge anyway

i also changed the 10 degrees on .03 load - 3000 rpm back to the stock table and went on a test drive ill post below, it felt like it was struggling alot on some shifts and when id get back on the throttle after cruising and go quite lean, when cruising it seemed to pretty rich however

 

[We're on Boost]

when id get back on the throttle after cruising and go quite lean,

Yes, the AEM shows super lean whenever you have some throttle on it, like at around 328 seconds where you have 24% throttle for a while, with 0.55 load factor, and the MAP is almost up to 1 atmosphere absolute. This is all closed loop territory, and it is in closed loop which is good at least.
So I looked at a right click "SD VE adjust (Combined FT)" thinking it would suggest gross large increases to your VE table in the areas where you are on the gas a little. But it didn't have much to say. Teeny little changes here and there.
There isn't really much data in the log for it to go on. The range of revs and load factors covered is pretty small. So maybe that's why.

But one thing you need for SD VE adjust (Combined FT) to work well is good info from your FrontO2 sensor. And I'm not so sure we are getting that.
If it was my car, I would get a brand new narrow band O2 sensor, a good brand like NTK or Denso (I would look it up on Rock Auto), put it in the O2 housing, and that would be a reliable basis for my closed loop operation.
I'd take my downpipe off and get a bung welded into it for the wideband sensor, and run the wideband to probably the MDP input, which you guys with 2g cars are lucky to have enough inputs to do this. That's a bit of a lack with the 1g cars. With it like that, your wideband isn't running the car. It is just giving you information, hopefully.
Anyway, even without the wideband at all, you could probably dial in your closed loop operation pretty well with a proper narrow band O2, because then your fuel trims would be more reliably meaningful and the VE adjust would be pretty reliable.

In the mean time, take a look at my VE table and Justin's VE table (one of his from June), just the part that is going to be used in closed loop. It would probably improve things to put numbers like these into your table. And your Global fuel could be a ways off, I really don't know. I think the calculator number is often times too lean.

This is my VE first. Then Justin's from June 14. I have 2 rows and 2 columns of dummy numbers at the top and left side of mine, don't pay any attention to those
The vertical axis shows from a complete vacuum (0psi absolute) to 1 atmosphere (14.7 psi absolute). 1 atmosphere or close is what you get at low revs when you put your foot into it. It's like full throttle if you were normally aspirated. At really low revs you'll get close to 1 atmosphere MAP even with only about 1/4 throttle, like you do around 328 seconds in the last log.

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[We're on Boost]

For another shot at it without changing any of the hardware that is already on the car, I would copy and paste Justin's entire VE table into your setup. That will make your AFRs richer and safer. Then log a drive. During the drive, get as much driving as you can with load factors between 0.5 and 1, and rpms up to 3000 - 4000 or so. Try to keep it in closed loop territory (basically LoadFactor less than 1.0). Try to do this on a road where you can go 50 or so mph. In 4th gear at 40 to 60 mph it's easy to get load factors just under 1 with 25-35% throttle. Your MAP gauge if you have one should show no boost, and not very much vacuum (this should keep load factor below 1). The idea is to see what we can learn from your log by looking at the higher areas of closed loop.

Justin's head is a 1g head BTW. I think yours is too? His VE table is pretty well worked out "by the book".
Here's Justin's log from June 14. Hope he doesn't mind!

 

[lololobster]

i shouldve checked here first i already installed the new gauge and sensor.

with justins VE table it did seem to be more happy during the shifts, the part it struggles with is getting back onto throttle after letting off

i couldnt really get onto a main road my the time i get out of my community it gets a lil hot, im gonna try to bleed it tmr before i go for a maiden voyage

 

[We're on Boost]

you got a different wideband! Good. I had an LC-1 up till 2015 and I always thought it was very reliable. I calibrated it once when it was new and never calibrated it again. It just seemed good.
In the 1st log, the idle from 208 seconds to the end looks pretty good. The LC1 AFR is about right and is even close to the AFRatioEst. The fuel trim is small which is good.
On the ECU Inputs tab, you are supposed to Lock any of the ones you are using for an aftermarket sensor. So in your case, you should 'Lock intake temp and baro pressure'. I'm not sure it will make any difference but that one should be locked. If you pick the yellow ? on the bottom right of that page, it will bring up a page of help. Scroll to the bottom of it and read the very last paragraph.
Yeah everything kind of just lays there for a little while after you step on the gas a little.
For that, try upping your BaseTipIn numbers which are in direct access. This is a thing that is supposed to work like an accelerator pump in a carburetor. Your numbers there are way low. This is a short table, just copy my numbers and try that out.

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You've got some time in both logs with load factor around 0.7 to 0.9 which is good. Some at 1.0. Some of that territory is in closed loop and some is in open loop. They are both too lean by quite a bit.
In the closed loop parts, the Combined fuel trim gets up to 16%, so the ecu knows it needs to add a lot of fuel, but the AFR is still too lean even with the fuel trim that high.
The open loop parts are too lean also.

Too lean is bad at any load factor around 1 or higher. I think I would just richen up the Global Fuel by quite a bit and see what happens. Something that will make an obvious difference. Like, change it from -57% to -50%. Let the lower load factor areas take care of it with negative fuel trims for now if it's too much.
Then take if for another drive like the 2nd one, or longer if you can.

I don't see any knock retard in either log. That's a little suspicious. I hope your knock sensor is working. Usually we will see a teeny bit, like 0.4 degrees of knock retard, here and there. Just enough to let you know it's working.
Oh wait, in the DAD log there is 0.4 degrees of knock retard, just for 1 blip. It's while you are getting off the gas after some 100% throttle, at 195.3 seconds. Good thing you were backing off there because boost was still low, about 7psi. 4355 rpm. Good also that your timing is not very high. So maybe your knock sensor is working.
You are lucky that you can still buy a good new knock sensor for 2g. The 1g situation for that is not very good lately. I see Standard Motor Products KS32 for 2g. $77.79. That would be a good choice, if you were to get a new one.

As you go along and start going WOT to higher revs, you might have trouble at first keeping your boost down low enough for safe pulls while the tune is rough. What is your turbo, and do you know what the a/r of your turbine housing is?

 

[lololobster]

you got a different wideband! Good. I had an LC-1 up till 2015 and I always thought it was very reliable. I calibrated it once when it was new and never calibrated it again. It just seemed good.
In the 1st log, the idle from 208 seconds to the end looks pretty good. The LC1 AFR is about right and is even close to the AFRatioEst. The fuel trim is small which is good.
On the ECU Inputs tab, you are supposed to Lock any of the ones you are using for an aftermarket sensor. So in your case, you should 'Lock intake temp and baro pressure'. I'm not sure it will make any difference but that one should be locked. If you pick the yellow ? on the bottom right of that page, it will bring up a page of help. Scroll to the bottom of it and read the very last paragraph.
Yeah everything kind of just lays there for a little while after you step on the gas a little.
For that, try upping your BaseTipIn numbers which are in direct access. This is a thing that is supposed to work like an accelerator pump in a carburetor. Your numbers there are way low. This is a short table, just copy my numbers and try that out.

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You've got some time in both logs with load factor around 0.7 to 0.9 which is good. Some at 1.0. Some of that territory is in closed loop and some is in open loop. They are both too lean by quite a bit.
In the closed loop parts, the Combined fuel trim gets up to 16%, so the ecu knows it needs to add a lot of fuel, but the AFR is still too lean even with the fuel trim that high.
The open loop parts are too lean also.

Too lean is bad at any load factor around 1 or higher. I think I would just richen up the Global Fuel by quite a bit and see what happens. Something that will make an obvious difference. Like, change it from -57% to -50%. Let the lower load factor areas take care of it with negative fuel trims for now if it's too much.
Then take if for another drive like the 2nd one, or longer if you can.

I don't see any knock retard in either log. That's a little suspicious. I hope your knock sensor is working. Usually we will see a teeny bit, like 0.4 degrees of knock retard, here and there. Just enough to let you know it's working.
Oh wait, in the DAD log there is 0.4 degrees of knock retard, just for 1 blip. It's while you are getting off the gas after some 100% throttle, at 195.3 seconds. Good thing you were backing off there because boost was still low, about 7psi. 4355 rpm. Good also that your timing is not very high. So maybe your knock sensor is working.
You are lucky that you can still buy a good new knock sensor for 2g. The 1g situation for that is not very good lately. I see Standard Motor Products KS32 for 2g. $77.79. That would be a good choice, if you were to get a new one.

As you go along and start going WOT to higher revs, you might have trouble at first keeping your boost down low enough for safe pulls while the tune is rough. What is your turbo, and do you know what the a/r of your turbine housing is?

yea my dad asked if he could drive it and i did not give him a run down, couldve ended wayyy worse.

the lc2 seems great!

im running a standard newer style fp green, im not sure what the boost controller is set too however so i can try to adjust that.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Latest and greatest - You can take the whole VE table as a start point until you get your global fuel dialed in. The Timing table is really nice in this one - It's a blend of Evo8 and 2G - and I just smoothed out a sharp transition at 6.5-7k

 

[We're on Boost]

@Justin DuBois
Thanks for the input!

Latest and greatest - You can take the whole VE table as a start point until you get your global fuel dialed in.

Yes. That's what I figure we are doing right now. Using your VE table as a starting point for VE that has a decent chance of being fairly close to the final VE table that he will wind up with. And moving the global fuel richer without changing VE until the AFRs look right in the higher parts of load and rpm.
I'm thinking it will still be too lean in those parts with global set at the -50% I suggested. So he needs to keep boost low for now, and revs low, and creep those things up in later runs.

The Timing table is really nice in this one - It's a blend of Evo8 and 2G - and I just smoothed out a sharp transition at 6.5-7k

I see in this log that the VE table has very few changes from your earlier one that he is using right now.
The timing looks like good for your E85 car where you have everything all worked out pretty darn well. Not good for @lololobster at the moment, who is on 91 octane I think, and is not ready for full-on timing or full-on much of anything!

 

[Justin DuBois]

@Justin DuBois
Thanks for the input!

Yes. That's what I figure we are doing right now. Using your VE table as a starting point for VE that has a decent chance of being fairly close to the final VE table that he will wind up with. And moving the global fuel richer without changing VE until the AFRs look right in the higher parts of load and rpm.
I'm thinking it will still be too lean in those parts with global set at the -50% I suggested. So he needs to keep boost low for now, and revs low, and creep those things up in later runs.


I see in this log that the VE table has very few changes from your earlier one that he is using right now.
The timing looks like good for your E85 car where you have everything all worked out pretty darn well. Not good for @lololobster at the moment, who is on 91 octane I think, and is not ready for full-on timing or full-on much of anything!

I was thinking his knock sensor would save him in the blind, and then he can dial it back where it spikes. (That's what I would do if I go back to pump gas)

 

[We're on Boost]

yea my dad asked if he could drive it and i did not give him a run down, couldve ended wayyy worse.

Yeah, ok I guess now we know why it's the DAD log
What kind of cars is DAD used to driving?

the lc2 seems great!

Is yours an LC-2 or an LC-1?
Whatever one you have, did you buy it totally new or is it a used one?
If it's an LC-1, did you calibrate it like they tell you to do in the manual? That part is a little bit of a pain because you have to first build yourself a little switch thingie with an LED in it and wire it in.
I don't remember now if the LC-2 needs to be calibrated like the LC-1 did.

im running a standard newer style fp green, im not sure what the boost controller is set too however so i can try to adjust that.

This sounds good for the turbo. I'm kind of a fan of the green although I've never had one.
Did you buy it new?
Did it come with its own internal wastegate and wastegate actuator? Or is it the version that is made for external wastegate?

Either way the turbine housing would have an 8 square centimeters nozzle area, which answers my question about turbine housing a/r.
In their way of doing it they don't give you an a/r, they give you the nozzle area in square centimeters, which is actually a lot less confusing. That's also how Mitsubishi does it.

Are you using a boost controller that is separate from ECMlink?
If you are using the one in ECMlink, it is set to all 0's right now.
Anyway, what you should have right now is a minimum boost configuration for your boost control. The least amount of boost you can get.
And that is done most simply with just a hose. No boost controller at all. You just run a hose from the fitting on the compressor outlet to the nipple on the top end of the wastegate actuator (assuming internal wastegate, and if it is an internal wastegate the actuator probably only has one nipple).
Hose like this: (He has the actuator outlined in red)

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When you drive it with global fuel set to -50, don't run it any harder than you did in the DAD log. I think it will still be quite a ways off, probably too lean still. Not ready for WOT to 5500 rpm.
I think the boost will go over 10 psi very fast as you approach 5000 rpm. Need to keep it from doing that at the moment.
BTW that picture is a screen shot from a video that is pretty good from what little I've seen of it so far. Check it out if you have time. He shows the simple hose setup for minimum boost first. The basic thing to understand about it is that the spring trys to keep the wastegate shut. The boost pressure pushes in the opposite direction, trying to open the wastegate.

 

[We're on Boost]

When you have time to set up an actual boost controller, I think you should use the boost controller that is built into ECMlink (in ECU Config on the Boost (WGS) tab) combined with the 3-port solenoid that ECMtuning recommends for use with ECMlink. That is the Ingersoll-Rand solenoid, on their page here. $89 currently.

The way you physically hook it up is like this:

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That's in the same video. Here is where to start watching for the explanation of this method.

You don't want to use just any old solenoid for boost control with the drivers that are in our ecu. ECMtuning says this Ingersol-Rand model is the best one they have found for our ecu.

The guy in the video is using AEM stuff, so he is using an AEM 30-2400 Boost Control Solenoid. Which is great if your boost controller is an AEM controller, and that is what I am using. But with ECMlink on our ecu, the Ingersoll-Rand solenoid should be the one to use.

If you someday change your setup to use an external wastegate with 2 ports, you would use the same 3-port actuator with that.

 

[lololobster]

ok guys i think its just about ready for ricky, i took out on the main road and it did pretty damn well, definitely needs more adjustment when going from driving to parking, it seems to bog down a bit, the afrs seemed pretty good whenever i could look at them, its like 105 degrees today so shes getting a bit hot i wish i couldve gone out for a bit longer

Is yours an LC-2 or an LC-1?
Whatever one you have, did you buy it totally new or is it a used one?
If it's an LC-1, did you calibrate it like they tell you to do in the manual? That part is a little bit of a pain because you have to first build yourself a little switch thingie with an LED in it and wire it in.
I don't remember now if the LC-2 needs to be calibrated like the LC-1 did.

its a brand new lc-2, it has a calibration section in the manual but my buddy said he never calibrated his and it seems to work fine out of the box

Did it come with its own internal wastegate and wastegate actuator? Or is it the version that is made for external wastegate?

it has an internal wastegate but i have that stuck fully closed and am running an external summit unit, with my exhaust manifold the turbo sits too far out and the internal gate hits my radiator so its not option to run without a new exhaust manifold

Are you using a boost controller that is separate from ECMlink?

for a controller i have the newer profec unit that worked great on my gst, im interested however if using the ECMLINK built in controller would be beneficial