Imback
Freelancer
- 1,417
- 535
- Nov 8, 2006
-
Long island,
New York
Let me know if these work
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ok heres how that went, the did seem very happy at the begining but went right back to surgingLet me know if these work
This is so true. 15 years ago I had surge up until closedloop hit at 130-135 degree coolant temp. Locking all those idle cells at 5 cured it.20deg ignition timing at idle isn't helping your idle surge, I'll say that.
Why is your Loadscale at 82.8% ?ok heres how that went, the did seem very happy at the begining but went right back to surging
tbh i thought expected voltage was .32v so im glad you pointed that out, it still didnt seem to help unfortunately thoNeed to set tps correctly then start adjusting your biss screw back in to help lower the idle.
i believe Imback set it like this, not sure whyWhy is your Loadscale at 82.8% ?
Yes I'm using low-z old school 1050s with resistor boxAlright I reread the post just now since I was tired last night. You are currently on low 1050 FIC injectors correct?
2nd you have a AEM inline set up in your pin assignment. Is this the correct wideband? If so is it the newer style or the older one. The newer one uses a 4.9 sensor the older ones use a 4.2. The drop down in ECMLink is for the older style one. Part # 30-0310 is the newer one that uses the 4.9 If it's the newer one.
As for the load scale being off I was skimming quickly through this thread and misread another members post as yours. I'll resend a new update once you answer me on the wideband and the injectors.
The BISS is only half a turn out from all the way in...Once the car is idling regardless if it starts to surge start turning the biss screw in to start limiting the amount of air going into the motor and having the ISC start working. I've never used the newer UEGO with the updated sensor so I wonder if they still suffer the same issues the older ones did with weak voltage output.
understood, will doNext time you do another log, before doing it, go to edit - then captured values. Check everything. Your logs lack needed info.
If this UEGO 30-2310 scaling is really correct for your AEM, then you should be using 3.12 volts for the WB switch point.The wideband is an AEM 30-4110 with a 4.9 sensor, I chose this input as its the only one that will match my gauge on link
I see 18 AFR in the log. Was the AEM gauge reading 18 here also?ok here is the log from that file, no more surge but 18.0 on the afr
I cleared his direct access to stock since i didn't want to introduce more variables to the mix since that's how its easy to chase your tail trying to diagnose issues. I also personally don't have injector #'s for the older fic stuff so i just used plane jane deadtime. We can add some deadtime but i just wanted the surge to stop. I'm also curious as to what the gauge was reading and am skeptical on the newer ugeo being plagued with weak output voltage like the older ones did.If this UEGO 30-2310 scaling is really correct for your AEM, then you should be using 3.12 volts for the WB switch point.
Because the scaling you are using looks like this in a chart (figured out from the July 14-07 log where your wideband raw voltages run the whole gamut). And look at what voltage the chart shows for AFR 14.72You must be logged in to view this image or video.
On the other hand, if your AEM 30-4110 was bought new anytime in the last 10 years, it is using a 4.9 sensor like you said above, and the user manual is this one, attached. According to this manual, the linear scaling would be done per the chart on page 11. The WB switch point would be 2.37 volts. You would use the P0 column on this chart.
But like @Imback, I'm skeptical of the analog output on the 30-4110. Mine never did work right, although the gauge works fine, and I think the gauge is accurate because I have an OEM narrow band O2 to verify it in closed loop.
Your wideband raw voltages in the July 17-01 log are around 4.8 volts which is like off-scale lean. Looks like that happened because you dropped your 14 volt InjBatteryAdj from 1220 to 690, dropped 530 microseconds. Probably should put those InjBatteryAdj numbers up to more like they were in the 14-07 log. See if that gets the wideband numbers near stoic in closed loop.
Either you still have a vacuum leak or your physical ignition timing is too far advanced. Also to do proper setting of the ignition you need a steady idle and the car needs to be warmed up and timing grounded out.ok here is the log from that file, no more surge but 18.0 on the afr with the same fuel settings and BISS is now fully closed, how could this be if the car passed a vacuum test
i didnt press "post"i will try this, however the data im currently using is from FICUse these values for your deadtime in DA. This 'shape' should be retained in DA as this is the personality of the injectors. Any other deadtime changes should be done only globally on the fuel tab.
7v -> 2907
9v -> 1933
12v -> 1126
14v -> 857
16v -> 735
19v -> 630

It's not leaking, it is set like that. Please refer to the links.i found my throttle body had ALOT of leaking air around the butterfly valve
ok heres the log from the updated file with the old battery fuel adjustment settings
i noticed in log 1, when i first started the car, it ran great at 1000 rpm steady with good afr and perfect vacuum(however fuel trim at bit high) until the car hit 124 degrees when the rpm shot up to 2500
Well, the car will run good with AFR of 13 like you have there. But the Front O2 graph is cycling and you are in closed loop. Cycling in closed loop should mean approx 14.7 AFR.with good afr
Dave and Tom (the creators of ecmlink) did a testing station many years ago testing many injectors and determining deadtime values. The ones I posted are from their testing. They are the all end all of values to use. My personal experience using their values has been an absolute game changer.i will try this, however the data im currently using is from FIC
edit: same result it just went lean quicker
Based on these logs, I suspect your FIAV is bad. As the ISC goes from all the way open down to where it should be, RPM goes up. The only way to have RPM go up like that is for more air to enter the intake manifold. I can only think of a FIAV doing that.ok heres the log from the updated file with the old battery fuel adjustment settings
i noticed in log 1, when i first started the car, it ran great at 1000 rpm steady with good afr and perfect vacuum(however fuel trim at bit high) until the car hit 124 degrees when the rpm shot up to 2500
then i shut the car off, took 45 microseconds off global deadtime and restarted immediately for log 2 where it ran super lean on both gauge and computer and brought back the SURGE